ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Some surfactants are ‘stronger emulsifiers’ than others. For example olefin sulfonate has relatively good emulsification properties. But you will actually reduce foam. Is PEG-8 dimethicone an option?
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@Zink, I researched that specifically and the answer is no. As Perry says rheology is different (again it depends on the product shiseido benefiance for eyes is very thick and contains petrolatum) and it’s usually less concentrated. For example there are face moisturizers with aggressive ingredients such as glycolic acid or retinol. Normally you wouldn’t want the same strengths under eyes. Caffeine is not helping at all. The only thing I am aware of, there are specialty products that reduce puffiness. Those are not moisturizers and are not intended for daily use. If I am not mistaken those products contain aluminum. I can’t find an example but those are not sold in regular stores. You can usually find them in magazines in airplanes. I had one before started formulating but forgot the name. @Perry, I am right about aluminum? Can it instantly reduce puffiness?
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You can formulate a gentle sulfates free bar. But unfortunately I can’t suggest a good formula because all my experiments weren’t successful. The idea is using SCI, CAPB and olefin sulfonate instead of SLSa. It works well but all bars I made with this combination were too soft. Disclaimer: I don’t generally mind sulfates, but there are more gentle options (lather will be worse)
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Also parabens are much less irritating than phenoxy. Provided that you established that it’s phenoxy that gives you a reaction.
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If you are asking whether you can use contaminated product the answer is no. But it won’t be dangerous if you keep it in the fridge and use within two days. Seriously consider a bar. They are quite effective and last long.
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@Doreen, I also thought that it’s restricted because of Diazolidinyl urea, apparently, it’s because of Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.
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Where is your preservative? All products with water should include preservatives.
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Try Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate and around 2% of Cocamide DEA. I know DEA doesn’t have good reputation (without any legit reason), but it is important to add it, because this combination is very hard to thicken otherwise.
Another option is Cocamidopropyl Betaine and glucosides (Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside), but glucosides tangle hair. -
Well, traditional soaps are very different from syndet bars. Traditional soaps are highly alkaline and you definitely want to avoid those on dry skin/hair. They strip off acid mantle. I can totally see that superfatting a soap makes it better (by making it less concentrated), but the soap is a very “aggressive” product in general.
Talking about sensitive scalp, you need very gentle combination of surfactants at a right percentage. You might be using a product that is too concentrated for you. I suspect that the reason why you like shampoo with oils is that oils neutralise some portion of surfactants by forming micelleswhich makes your product less concentrated (and less efficient). But it is the same as intentionally cutting your finger and putting a bandaid. Try to formulate a shampoo (not a syndet but a liquid shampoo) with a high concentration of CAPB or another amphoteric surfactant (70% of total surfactants). The total concentration of surfactants should not be higher than 15%. That should work for dry scalp withouht any oil. It won’t foam well but will clean. -
I am a bit surprised that Gel Maker EMU caused peeling at 1%. I seriously suspect it’s not your emulsifier. If you are using high molecular weight, the criminal is hyaluronic acid. I do not recommend using polsorbate 20 a very simple reason. When you are not using commericial emulsifier such as glyceryl stearate/PEG100 stearate blend, or Gel Maker EMU in your case, you are actually creating your own emulsification system. It will eventually separate, because polysorbate 20 has very high HLB comparing to your oil phase. You need to balance it out with something like glyceryl oleate. I made my own emulsification system of glyceryl oleate and polysorbate 60 (plus stabilisers). It shows no signs of separation so far (7 months in room temperature). Try the same formula without HA.
Disclaimer: you don’t need to calculate HLB when using commercial emulsifiers, but you do need to calculate it when you are creating your own system. -
Put it in the fridge and use within 48 hours and you don’t need a preservative. Basically treat it as food with very short shelf life (such as fresh fish). Conditioner without preservative shows visible signs of contamination (mold) on 5th day when stored at room temperature in a humid climate (result of multiple experiments). Another option is to make an anhydrous conditioning bar. No water - no preservative. There are some caveats, since it’s stored in the bathroom you still need a preservative unless you are going to dry it properly after each use.
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I am afraid oil doesn’t do much here. You need gentle surfactants for dry scalp (CAPB for example). Oils in shampoo reduce lather and destabilise the product. They don’t stay on the skin -you simply wash them off. Oils are used as a fairy dust in commercial products at no more than 0.5%
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Also, dry hair do not need oil. Oil doesn’t really absorb. You need silicones and cationics. Add 3% of polyquat 7 or polyquat 10 plus dimethicone and it will be a shampoo that makes dry hair look much better.
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SCI is required to make pH balanced bar. I am saying that additional stearic acid will make the product draggy, especially at this concentration. When adding something always ask “what is the purpose of this ingredient in this formula”?
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@Bill_Toge, I absolutely agree that BTMS can’t be mixed with anionic but syndets are the exeption from this rule. It’s an anhydrous product and thus they don’t react.
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Your product failed because you didn’t follow the instructions. None of her formulas have 19% of emollients. You don’t need that much oil. You don’t need any oil at all in fact. And stearic acid makes it draggy. Remove all oils, stearic and cetyl. You can keep dimethicone if you wish.
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Same story with neck creams.
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Skin under eyes is the same as everywhere else but thinner and more sensitive. It means that you need less concentrated product. And no, there is no proof that caffeine, that is often seen in eye creams actually does anything to reduce appearance of dark circles.
I analised around 20 commercial eye products and my conclusion is, that they are the same as face lotions. So, they basically sell less concentrated product and charge more. -
You can either use syntetic fragrance oils or add a resin. Resins such as benzoin help stabilise the fragrance.
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Up! That’s an interesting question. Can professionals help please?
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The Ordinary use DMI in many of their products. But in many cases you don’t really need the product to penetrate deep. It really depends on your actives and the formula in general. “Propylene glycol doesnt work, its not strong enough” is a blanket statement.
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Thank you for proving my point @Microformulation
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My observation is that hobbyists
and crafters don’t stay here too long unless they are very serious. The reason
is the hostility of the professionals. I also noticed that sometimes crafters
might know something that professionals don’t simply because we learn
differently (and yes those are fools who make discoveries).I agree that it is a good idea to mark people
depending on their background. That, however, requires changing the functionality of the site and is time-consuming, which leads to the very subject
of the discussion: donations are highly welcomed.Another
suggestion is to charge an annual subscription
fee. I even suggest charging
professionals less to reduce their frustration. That will assure that those who don’t
know what xantham gum is don’t post here, which
will be quite sad though. -
First question is how did you determine that propylene glycol doesn’t work?
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It’s too vague question. There are hundreds of polymers and quite a lot of natural emulsifiers.