ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
-
Here’s an example
-
@Gunther, It must separate. You can find them in any department store. Water phase is usually colored blue. You shake it before using and then it separates back.
-
Too broad question. Simple answer poluquaternium. Reasonable answwe: depends onb your formula and desired results.
-
Well if you want a bulletproof option it’s duophased cyclomethicone based makeup remover. The formula above is reverse engineered la prairie product. It will dissolve any makeup. Balms aren’t bad either.
-
@esmail it makes no sense because you want to adjust pH after you added all ingredients. Sometimes you don’t even need adjustment.
-
I totally agree with Perry as learned it myself via trial and error. CAPB goes in the end.
Start with SLES and sulfosuccinate, then mix Cocamide DEA with a little bit of water and heat it to 55-60C. It will make it clear and homogenous. Add cocamide DEA to SLES and sulfosuccinate. Add water and all other ingredients. Then Add CAPB in the very end and adjust the pH. Looking at the combination of surfactants that you have, I think you don’t need any salt.
-
@Gunther, it’s a very good question, I am also curious whether it stays on hair or not. I use PEG-8 Dimethicone in shampoos because it improves finger pass when the product is rinsed. So it’s more for the “experience”.
-
@Fekher, you are right ethanol dissolves makeup pretty well, but imagine how much it dries the skin. Also, it’s not safe to use it on eyes.
-
@Zink, you can formulate a decent surfactant based face wash. I personally think that the Korean approach to cleansing is the best one. You use an oil cleanser and then surfactant based cleanser (I genuinely believe that you need both). In this case, you can add salicylic acid, make it low pH and market it as an anti-acne product. All I am saying a surfactant-based product will not be effective to dissolve water-resistant makeup. Keep in mind that face product should not contain more than 10% of surfactants and should be safe for eyes.
-
@smok, it’s a cleansing balm:
INCI % Mineral oil 62.25% Cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate 10.00% PEG-40 HCO 12.00% Stearic acid 10.00% Cetyl Alcohol 5.00% Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.75% You don’t need Cyclomethicone for it. It’s a solid cleansing product that should be melted in hands applied on face and rinsed off.
Duophased makeup removers with Cyclomethicone usually look like this:
INCI % Aqua 44.35% Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20% Butylene Glycol 3.00% Sodium Chloride 1.25% Germaben 1.0% C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00% Cyclomethicone 48.00% Bisabolol 0.20%
This is a liquid product that should be shaken and then applied using a cotton pad. You don’t need to rinse it off.Both of the products use oil to dissolve makeup. Cyclomethicone can be considered oil for the sake of this discussion.
-
This is my preference probably, but I don’t like any oils in my surfactants. I often use watersoluble shea butter (I have two varieties) and PEG-8 Dimethicone. Regarding dimethicone and cyclomethicone, they make a great leave-in detangler at 20/80 proportion. Super simple and efficient product.
-
Carbopol 980 is very viscous at .5%
-
There are surfactants compatible with oils that create clear cleansing oil. Have you considered those?
-
Any oil added to surfactants (silicone is an oil for the sake of this discussion) will decrease cleansing power. Surfactant with SLES will remove makeup better (yet not good enough) than the one with decyl glucoside but I guess this isn’t a solution that you are looking for.
-
I agree 0.2% is quite low. I am using much higher concentration but since I don’t have eye cream I applied ‘regular’ moisturizer with retinol under eyes and I noticed more flaking in that area. Re: is that proven that sun exposure makes it worse, I don’t think that any proof is required because skin under eyes has melanocytes. So sun exposure will no doubt make it darker, which isn’t desirable.
-
Yes you do want to add something like cetyl alcohol for sure. And a stabiliser is a good idea as well. I suggest siligel because xantham alone gives nasty ranch sauce like texture
-
So, there is a pH balanced formula developed by swiftcraftymonkey that I use a lot (with my own twist to it). It is made of SCI, SLSa and CAPB. That formula doesn’t need any adjustment as it comes out around 6. I do adjust them when I try to change something. For example I am still struggling with sulfate-free formula: SCI, Olefin Sulfonate powder and CAPB that one needs to be adjusted.
-
@smok, I shared many of my formulas here and not sure which one you are referring to. Are you referring to CAPB + glucosides facewash?
-
So, give olefin sulfonate a chance. Combination of olefin sulfonate and CAPB is amazing (but hard to thicken).
-
Soap makes a horrible shampoo. There is no soap with pH lower than 9. Virgin hair (not chemically treated) have a pH around 4.5, which is even lower than skin.
Simplistic but very visual picture. -
I think you have way too high expectations of alpha arbutin.
It is not a magic stick that will make pigmentation disappear. It provides a very
subtle effect. Also, there are different
types of pigmentation. No topical treatment will help with pigmentation that is
located deep in the epidermis. Consult
with an experienced esthetician and
consider laser treatment. -
By the way, provided that sun exposure doesn’t make dark circles problem any better, adding skin lightening agents, such as MAP or Alpha-Arbutin to the eye product would make sense. However it’s not specific for eyes, as mentioned already. Regarding retinol, I have been using it for quite a while and it makes skin flaky (normal reaction). This side effect is more visible aroud eyes.
-
Olefin sulfonate is amazing!! It’s cheap and performs great in hair products! I have both powder and liquid (by Stepan). My favorite shampoo brand OGX bases all of their products on SCI and olefin sulfonate. Make sure that what you read about it is not chemophobia from “natural” DIY crowd.
-
I am speaking as an experienced consumer rather than a formulator now.
I don’t think this problem has a solution. There are only two types of products that are really effective for removing make up: 1) cleansing oil/balm and 2) Duo-phased make up remover. Both contain oil (cyclomethicone in #2). The main reason for that, is the fact that make up in most cases is more or less waterproof. Foundation is W/O emulsion, so you need oil to dissolve it.
That is the main reason why so called double cleansing is so popular today. You start wil oil cleanser and follow by surfactant based cleanser.
-
@Fekher, I believe that you know a lot about neutralisers and can contribute to this conversation.