ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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The proportion is 2:1. Two parts of Stearic Acid to one part of TEA. 4:2 should be enough to emulsify 15% of oils. The emulsion will be liquid so you need other thickeners (cetearyl alcohol).
The negative side is the pH. It will be 8 or more. You can’t bring it down as that will break the emulsion. Check lush’s products and you will see they are alkaline. It’s an effective, cheap and easy to use emulsifier with a relatively pleasant sensorial (strangely enough it doesn’t soap much). But I personally would apply anything above 7 on my skin. -
Cyclomethicone works well in hair products where it improves spreadability and in foundations. Every ingredient has its purpose and the best application.
Post your formula if it’s ok with you and I will try to think what can be amended to make it dryer.
Frankly it’s very hard to say anything without seeing the formula. -
Sepimax Zen is by Seppic. Regarding ultrez, the most electrolyte resistant according to Lubrizol’s tables is Ultrez 30. I don’t like it. It’s better than 980 but I wouldn’t call it electrolyte resistant.
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I see, you want to achieve higher viscosity without adding greasiness. You can replace Cetyl Alcohol to Behenyl Alcohol. It will add viscosity and it’s very ‘dry’. See if you can find Sepimax Zen. It’s a very versatile ingredient. It acts as an emulsifier and rheology modifier (you can make a clear gel with it) and it’s relatively resistant to electrolytes (it won’t tolerate 2% of sodium lactate but it’s more resistant than carbomers). You can also replace caprylic/capric to isopropyl myristate or isododecane to achieve dryer feel.
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No, you cannot add cationic emulsifier to anionic system. If you want conditioning components add polyquat 7.
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Some sources say that Gluconolactone and Glucono Delta Lactone is the same ingredient. I am not sure whether it’s true, but gluconolactone is marketed as a gentle exfoliant.
It’s the second ingredient in Lotion P50:
http://thewanderlustproject.com/2015/06/biologique-recherche-lotion-p50-review/#.XM3HkzBKjX4If it’s indeed the same ingredient and it has chelating properties (there is no EDTA in lotion p50) as well, it’s a gem.
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What exactly are you trying to make? Every ingredient has a purpose. PEG-40 HCO is a solubiliser. It’s used to solubilise tiny amount of oil (such as fragrance) into a clear system (microemulsion). It shouldn’t be used as an emulsifier. Xanthan gum is a water phase thickener. It shouldn’t be used as an emulsifier either.
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Have you tried Siligel (Lucas Meyer)?
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Glycerin doesn’t increase viscosity. So if HA is used as a rheology modifier in your formula, introduction of glycerin won’t justify reduction of HA.
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@elenapaun, you can’t post a question in someone’s discussion. Start a new one.
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@Gunther cetyl is less draggy which translates into more elegant product.
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Petrolatum rules! It’s actually better than many hyped overpriced products in the market.
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Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a detergent. It’s used in shampoos and shower gels.
I still can’t understand what are you trying to achieve. Are you trying to make an emulsion with cetyl alcohol? If yes just heat the phases. However I don’t think that emulsion based on PEG-40 HCO will be stable. It’s used for achieving micro-emulsions with low % of oil. Such as solubilizing 0.5% of fragrance in a clear solution. -
PEG-40 HCO is not used as a sole emulsifier. Are you trying to make your version of polawax? Have you tried searching ingredients on alibaba? Must be easily accessible in Asia.
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Micellar waters existed in 90’s. But were called eye makeup removers (there were two main products: cleansing milk for face and eye makeup remover). The same formula without colorants in a larger clear bottle was named ‘micellar water’ in 2000’s.
I looked through LOIs of several ‘micellar ‘ shampoos and while some have strange composition of ingredients the majority are just SLES/CAPB shampoos without colorants and pearlisers. For the marketers micellar = clear/transparent. Consumers think, no color makes it more clean and gentle. -
Use this to calculate active matter. Agree with Fekher, you should confirm SLES concentration.
http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/ -
Micellar water with less than 2% of surfactant wouldn’t dissolve any makeup. So, I assume most of the micellar waters contain more than 1%
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Schwarzkopf Professional Bonacure Hyaluronic Moisture Kick Micellar Shampoo Ingredients:
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Chloride, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Propylene Glycol.
1) make the most generic shampoo with the most generic combination of SLES and an amphoteric surfactant.
2) Thicken it with natural, organic, vegan, gluten free salt.
3) Do not add any pearlisers and colourants (save money) so that it’s transparent.
4) Call it micellar.I can’t even ::smiley:
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Xanthan is very easy to dissolve. It just has to be suspended in glycerin or oil.
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Increase Myristyl myristate to 5-6% and add 0.5% of Gel maker (it will significantly improve the texture). Alternatively you can replace Myristyl myristate with Cetyl Alcohol (4%) or combine them (for rich creamy texture 3% Cetyl Alcohol, 2% myristyl myristate).
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2% of Sepilife Nude (aka GelMaker Nat) is enough to make a very viscous emulsion without addition of thickeners. Your emulsifier contains Cetearyl Alcohol and you have Myristyl myristate. Make your formula without the gel maker and then start adding it (start from 0.5%) until you reach desirable viscosity.
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@Doreen, don’t buy Pat McGrath’s lipsticks online! They are amazing but the colors are complex (not straightforward colors that suit everyone). You should try them first. Eyeshadows are more forgiving. They started selling it in Londone two weeks ago.
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And panthenol too (I would reduce, it can contribute to tackiness).
I think it’s the polymeric emulsifiers that compromises the texture. Try to reduce to 0.5%.
Also, this preservative might have negative impact on the texture.
Regarding air bubbles, what are you using to emulsify your product? What is the size of the batch? -
I don’t understand why film former is required here. There’s dimethicone, that reduces TEWL, in formula and a gelling polymer (probably it’s too high) that acts as a film former (acrylate based polymer) and there are ceramides.