Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formula Critique

  • Formula Critique

    Posted by mehdilazrak91 on April 16, 2019 at 3:00 pm

    What do you think of this formula for a rich moisturizer. Is there anything you would add or change?

    Aqua 61.15000
    Glycerin 4.00000
    EDTA 0.20000
    Hyaluronic acid 0.50000
    Isopropyl
    myristate
    3.00000
    Myristal myristate 3.00000
    Dimethicone 3.00000
    marula 1.00000
    Camellia oil 2.00000
    Capric/capryllic
    triglyceride
    4.00000
    Cetearyl
    alcohol/ceteareth-20
    4.00000
    Sodium
    acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, C15-19 alkane,
    polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglycerin-6 (gel emulsifier)
    2.00000
    Allantoin 0.30000
    Niacinamide 4.00000
    Saccharide Isomerate 3.00000
    Panthenol 1.00000
    Cica plant extract 0.10000
    Tocopherol 0.10000
    Ceramide blend 2.00000
    Phenoxyethanol,
    capryl glycol, sorbic acid (preservative)
    1.25000
    Xanthan gum 0.20000
    MarkBroussard replied 5 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 4:15 pm

    Yes, Marula Oil is very high in Oleic Acid, so I would change it to a high Linoleic Acid profile oil.  Also, you don’t seem to have included a film former for TEWL reduction.

  • mehdilazrak91

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 4:34 pm

    @MarkBroussard

    Thanks, I wanted a richer feel and picked oil with high oleic acid content for that purpose.

    What is a good film-former ingredient you would recommend?

    I am mostly worried about the texture visually. While the cream is not sticky and has great slip when applied, visually it looks like white glue due to some air bubbles in it, high gloss and high viscosity. I want a slightly softer, lower viscosity, creamier looking product. What do you think give is the high gloss/high viscosity glue like look and how can I correct it? I suspect the gel emulsifier is creating this issue but not sure.

    Thanks, 

  • JonahRay

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 5:57 pm

    @mehdilazrak91I would try playing around with both the gel emulsifier and the Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20 to influence both the texture and the viscosity. Adding fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol can give it a more ‘creamy’ and opaque appearance and feel.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 8:56 pm

    @mehrzadkia

    Dura Quench from Croda.  You can purchase small quantities from MakingCosmetics.com

    Cetyl Alcohol (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Cetyl Stearate (and) Stearic Acid

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 9:27 pm

    I don’t understand why film former is required here. There’s dimethicone, that reduces TEWL, in formula and a gelling polymer (probably it’s too high) that acts as a film former (acrylate based polymer) and there are ceramides.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    April 16, 2019 at 9:30 pm

    And panthenol too (I would reduce, it can contribute to tackiness). 
    I think it’s the polymeric emulsifiers that compromises the texture. Try to reduce to 0.5%.
    Also, this preservative might have negative impact on the texture.
    Regarding air bubbles, what are you using to emulsify your product? What is the size of the batch?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 2:42 am

    I am mostly worried about the texture visually. While the cream is not sticky and has great slip when applied, visually it looks like white glue due to some air bubbles in it, high gloss and high viscosity. I want a slightly softer, lower viscosity, creamier looking product. What do you think give is the high gloss/high viscosity glue like look and how can I correct it? I suspect the gel emulsifier is creating this issue but not sure.
    Thanks, 

    You might want to cut down on the Myristyl Myristate as it tends to increase viscosity, but also give a high gloss to creams.  The skin sensorial, however, is excellent.  Try 1.5% MM and that will probably help with this.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 5:04 am

    2% of Sepilife Nude (aka GelMaker Nat) is enough to make a very viscous emulsion without addition of thickeners. Your emulsifier contains Cetearyl Alcohol and you have Myristyl myristate.  Make your formula without the gel maker and then start adding it (start from 0.5%) until you reach desirable  viscosity.

  • em88

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 7:24 am

    To me, it looks like you added in your formula everything you had in front of you. 
    Have you actually tried this formulation?
    Why did you add xanthan gum when you have already 2% of gel emulsifier?
    Not sure if you really need Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20, the gel emulsifier should be enough. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 12:21 pm

    It’s a nice combination of moisturizers, humectants, emollients, but could use an occlusive.  I agree with @em88 … I would trash the two chosen emulsifiers and go with something that forms a lamellar structure.

  • Doreen

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 2:28 pm

    Dura Quench from Croda. You can purchase small quantities from MakingCosmetics.com

    Cetyl Alcohol (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Cetyl Stearate (and) Stearic Acid

    I see it contains isostearyl isostearate, George Deckner from UL Prospector also recommends this, for reducing TEWL. 
    (Emollients (5-15%): historically most hand and body lotion formulations used Petrolatum due to its ability to reduce TEWL or skin moisture loss. I recommend using emollients which can positively impact the crystallinity of epidermal lipids and have a good skin feel. These include:

    • Isopropyl Isostearate for improved hydration
    • Isostearyl Isostearate for reduced TEWL
    • C12-13 Lactate for stimulating epidermal lipids production and hydration )

    Source (also contains more tips regarding moisturizers by George Deckner).

  • mehdilazrak91

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 4:28 pm

    Thanks all.

    @MarkBroussard if I go with lamellar emulsifier such as Montanov, would I still need Xanthan gum?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 17, 2019 at 4:55 pm

    Yes, the Montanov series create thin emulsions, so you’re going to need Xanthan and Cetyl, Stearoyl, or Cetearyl Alcohol (3%) to get decent viscosity.

  • mehdilazrak91

    Member
    April 18, 2019 at 6:52 pm

    I made it again without the gel emulsifier. All that weird viscosity is gone so it came a 100% from the gel emulsifier. However, now the product is too runny more like a lotion than a cream so I will be reintroducing the gel emulsifier at lower concentration.

    @MarkBroussard I am planning to also try a version with Montanov lamellar emulsifier. What % of lamellar emulsifier would you recommend and should I use Montanov or you got a better recommendation for lamellar emulsifier?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    April 18, 2019 at 7:09 pm

    Increase Myristyl myristate to 5-6% and add 0.5% of Gel maker (it will significantly improve the texture). Alternatively you can replace Myristyl myristate with Cetyl Alcohol (4%) or combine them (for rich creamy texture 3% Cetyl Alcohol, 2% myristyl myristate).

  • mehdilazrak91

    Member
    April 18, 2019 at 7:38 pm

    @ngarayeva001 if I increase Myristyl Myristate to 5-6% and add 0.5% of Gel maker, should I remove Cetearath-20/Cetearyl Alcohol and Xanthan gum?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 18, 2019 at 8:53 pm

    @mehdilazrak91:

    I would use Montanov 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol + Coco-Glucoside) at 3% to 4% … you’ll need to add an additional 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to thicken it up.  That, plus the Myristyl Myristate should give you a nice texture.  You’ll want to leave in the Xanthan Gum.

    Yes, I would leave out the Ceteareth-20 and Gel Emulsifier altogether. 

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