ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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It’s not very thick because there’s not much free stearic acid left. It’s all reacted with TEA. I just tested it out of curiosity because I noticed that lush use it in most of their lotions. I was rather surprised that their products don’t soap and waned to see whether I can repeat it. TEA stearate soaps less than many emulsifiers I tried.
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Bosch stick blender with a small head works ok for small batches.
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3.5% TEA to 8% stearic acid works for me but I didn’t do stability test.
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Post the entire formula. It’s impossible to say with your description only.
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L-Ascorbic Acid. All derivatives get converted into LAA in the skin.
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There is one thing to consider. Retinol is a skin sensitiser. As well as LAA in high concentrations. I wouldn’t recommend to have them in the same routine unless you are working with deriatives as mentioned above.
I saw formulas with encapsulated retinol and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. -
It’s a secondary surfactant that improves foaming and adds viscosity. I like using it in sulfate-free products.
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Oh it’s lipophilic! I didn’t know that. Very interesting ingredient. I wish I could buy it. Have some experience with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. I am not too impressed to be honest.
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I agree with Perry that PQ 10 is better than PQ 7 (better combability for wet hair). Also, PQ 10 adds viscosity which is a great bonus if you are formulating with glucosides or say, sarcosinate.
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I don’t have experience with ethyl ascorbic acid because it’s impossible to find it on the DIY market (please let me know if I am wrong). If you can find it, make sure it shouldn’t be formulated within low pH (see Pharma’s explanation on the Ph above). LAA serums should be formulated at a low pH to be active.
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Not all serums contain oil. There are plenty of waterbased products on the market as well. If you formulate with oil, consider using light esters and polymeric emulsifiers (Sepimax Zen, Sepinov EMT, Aristoflex AVC etc) for a good slip.
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An update, the formula didn’t pass the stability (I froze it and placed it to a warm environment). I am going to replace behentrimonium chloride to arlacel 165 and see what happens.
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Hi @Will,
It looks like it’s not very straightforward question. I raised a topic about it and Perry shared some insights:
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/5834/hair-thermal-protection#latest
Ther is also a video by the institute of personal care science:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQR2TQ_bYKc
A conclusion is that some special polymers might provide a certain level of thermal protection. I don’t think, however, that it’s required for a blow drier. It is more relevant for a flat iron.
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Are you looking for DIY quantities or for manufacturing?
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@Pharma, thank you very much! It’s very useful comment. I knew that aplha arbutin should be formulated within neutral pH, but I didn’t know how important it is. I also didn’t know about metals (I always add EDTA just in case but here it’s justified).
I am speaking as someone who used and wasn’t impressed with the result. Probably anecdotal evidence but it seems to me that it prevents skin from getting darker after sun exposure, but it doesn’t lighten what’s already there. I guess it might be true provided it’s mechanism of work.
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Good to know. Thank you Perry.
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@Gunther why you can’t heat directly in a beaker? I put thermometers and keep an eye on it.
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Doesn’t do much
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I only know DIY resellers (for example https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/gomma-xanthano-trasparente) unfortunately, but I am sure it’s easy to find. The one above gives transparency close to carbomer (the texture is typical xanthan texture)
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There are varieties of xanthan that are very clear.
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To melt waxes, fatty alcohols, emulsifiers and other solid ingredients. Water should be the same temperature because if you add cold water to hot waxes they will solidify faster than you homogenize it.
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I use a similar one. It overheats and you must keep your eye thermometers. It’s ok if you are a hobbyist but I wouldn’t use it in a lab. So the answer is, it does the job but it’s not great.
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If you are making a lotion you can just add TEA to the water phase and Stearic Acid to the oil phase.
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Very confusing article. At least they said that essential oils are cytotoxic and witch hazel has no place in modern skincare.
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Post the entire formula