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  • Can’t answer to all questions but as per my modest experience with lipsticks (I only got into them several months ago), elastomers like cyclopentasiloxane/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer don’t contribute to viscosity and quite hard to suspend (at least without special equipment which I don’t have). What they actually do is they make formula more matte.
    You can buy small amount of synthetic fluorphlogopite here https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/ronaflair-soft-sphere . Boron nitride and silica give the “soft focus” and matte effect but but I don’t know what synthetic fluorphlogopite contributes to the formula. I didn’t really noticed any difference when I added it.
    Also Cyclopentasiloxane content might be from this product:
    https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/gc-resin-tc

    It’s Trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasyloxane.

    And as a user I would agree that removing kaolin is a good idea. I can say there is kaolin in the lip product without even looking at the LOI. It gives quite an unpleasant dry feel.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 14, 2019 at 10:26 pm in reply to: Natural Nappy Balm?

    Can you share the link to the stirrer? You can buy a simple chinese stirrer on Amazon.uk or ebay. More than sufficient for home use, but £50 sounds a bit cheap.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 14, 2019 at 6:23 am in reply to: Retinol (Vitamin A) with BHA, BHT (for stable the Vit. A).

    @Perry, It is my understanding  that replacing oils to esters eliminates the need in antioxidants? Am I right?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 14, 2019 at 6:18 am in reply to: Retinol (Vitamin A) with BHA, BHT (for stable the Vit. A).

    To your question, the amount matters. BHT is safe when used at % recommended by supplier(0.1% max). EWG is a fraud. If you see a reference to EWG in the article you can be sure the author isn’t a chemist and have no idea what they are talking about.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 14, 2019 at 6:14 am in reply to: Retinol (Vitamin A) with BHA, BHT (for stable the Vit. A).

    There is nothing really wrong with NaOH but if you don’t like it, you can use triethanolamine instead (TEA).

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 13, 2019 at 8:56 am in reply to: A hole in the mixture after cooled down

    Happens to lip balms and lipsticks all the time. I just fill in the hole with more product after it forms.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 13, 2019 at 6:27 am in reply to: having a stability problem with this formula!

    Check suppliers suggestions but EO’s are usually added around 0.25%

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 13, 2019 at 6:25 am in reply to: Retinol (Vitamin A) with BHA, BHT (for stable the Vit. A).

    You are clearly asking for problems when mixing retinol, LAA and arbutin. Focus on one ingredient. It’s difficult enough to create a stable, safe, and well performing product with one active. The industry doesn’t do it not because they are stupid, but because it’s not safe/effective/feasible for some other reason.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 12, 2019 at 6:40 pm in reply to: BTMS 50

    It’s not soluble in water

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 11, 2019 at 11:22 am in reply to: When to add preservative in the formula?

    For example you can’t add preservative to the waterphase when you make hair conditioner. Cationics such as BTMS and Behentrimonium Chloride have very high melting point. The data sheets say 90C but in my experience it’s close to 100C. I don’t know a preservative that would tolerate it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 11, 2019 at 5:50 am in reply to: When to add preservative in the formula?

    Yes, there’s a difference. You need to consider what temperature your preservative can tolerate and many other factors. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 10, 2019 at 3:22 pm in reply to: Developing a Foamy Facial Wash

    I have never seen  “shiny facial wash” but I have a suspicion that you are looking for pearliser:

    https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/1481/52073/TEGO-Pearl-N-300

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 10:04 pm in reply to: Emulsions in organic shampoo

    Aziz, there are so many companies that build entire marketing campaign for multiple products on false claims. Take collagen for example. Companies use the fact it’s essential for youthful skin and make products with collagen. Consumer thinks, well skin ages because losing collagen, so using moisturizer with collagen is a good idea. Now the problem: does loss of collagen leads to signs of aging? The answer is yes. Can you replenish collagen in your skin applying it topically? The answer is unfortunately no.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 3:56 pm in reply to: What has happened with my preservative system?

    Thank you Mark! Good to know.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 3:55 pm in reply to: Sticky and Oily Clay Blush

    @tinj, good cream blush is made in a similar way to a lipstick. You don’t need clay and glycerin in it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 3:52 pm in reply to: Foundation (w/si) viscosity issue

    Pharma said:

    If high speed increases viscosity it usually means that it’s a “real” water in silicone emulsion (high shear/speed = small droplet size). As a rule of thumbs, lamellar emulsions can be made with a lower shear force.

    Thank you! It’s very good to know this.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 12:52 pm in reply to: What has happened with my preservative system?

    @MarkBroussard, apologies for off-topic, is it true for all forms of lecithin? I don’t like xanthan gum very much and use siligel instead (just like the texture). Sounds like it too would cause preservation challenges..

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 9, 2019 at 10:14 am in reply to: SoapCalc recipe calculator
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 9:26 pm in reply to: Formulations containing Silicone

    PEG-8 dimethicone works well in skincare but although it’s water soluble it’s a bad idea for shampoos: reduces viscosity and foam.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 9:23 pm in reply to: having a stability problem with this formula!

    The video of the institute of the personal care science I posted above shows that at 2% it becomes pro-oxidant at a room temperature.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 9:02 pm in reply to: having a stability problem with this formula!

    @Doreen, thank you. I noticed there are different views on it. Please have a look at this video and comment what do you think:
    https://youtu.be/ioucAvsnziw

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 10:15 am in reply to: Formulations containing Silicone

    For emulsions dimethicone is added to reduce soaping. You don’t need much and 1.5-2% shouldn’t cause issues if you add it to the oil phase (even when you use polar oils).

    You can add silicone emulsifier such as ViscOptima SE by croda or Abil EM 90
     to stabilise higher amount of silicone.

    For shampoos, watersoluble forms are usually used (Amodimenticone for example).

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 10:05 am in reply to: having a stability problem with this formula!

    Also, you have too much pepermint oil. It is a sensitiser. You also have too much of Vitamin E (unless it’s acetate). It might work as pro-oxidant at this concentration.
    Panthenol is a claim ingredient and doesn’t provide much skin benefits. You can reduce it to 0.1% because it will contribute to stickiness. You already have sufficient amount of humectants.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 8, 2019 at 10:04 am in reply to: having a stability problem with this formula!

    The HLB of your oil phase is 9.4, while the HLB of your emulsifiers is 15.1 which can lead to instability. You don’t need to focus on HLB too much if you use commercial blends such as Glyceryl Stearate/PEG 100 Stearate and add polymeric emulsifiers for stability, but this is your custom blend. 

    Also PEG-40 HCO is a solubiliser and is not designed to stabilise such a high oil phase. I think you should change your emulsifiers. Try to replace PEG-40 HCO to glyceryl stearate and recalculate HLB.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    July 6, 2019 at 9:21 pm in reply to: Developing a toner

    No, what I was trying to say is that toners were changing throughout time. I am personally not a fan of alcohol in skincare, although many chemists would disagree with this. If it’s a cleansing product, remove oils and add PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric glycerides. Alternatively you can add  polysorbate 80 or even decyl glucoside but that wouldn’t be my first choice.

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