ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Here they are used as the only gel makers (no other emulsifiers)
INCI % Aqua 82.65% Disodium EDTA 0.20% Niacinamide 4.00% Glycerine 1.00% Butylene
Glycol3.00% Germal Powder 0.20% Cetearyl Isonononoate 5.00% Coco Caprylate 0.70% Dimethicone 10 1.00% Tocopherol 0.10% BHT 0.05% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.40% Hydroxyethyl
Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer1.50% Bisabolol 0.20% The first product is rich cream for dry skin, the second one is a light and fresh gel-cream for normal skin. This can give you a good idea of how to use them.
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Here they are used as stabilisers and rheology modifiyers:
Name of
ingridientPercentage to be used Aqua 74.50% Glycerin 2.00% Butylene
Glycol3.00% Disodium EDTA 0.10% Dimethicone 1000 2.00% Petrolatum 3.00% Theobroma Cacao 5.00% Coco caprylate 2.00% Buterospermum
parkii butter1.00% Tocopherol 0.10% Cetearyl
Alcohol2.00% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.30% Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium
Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer0.50% Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100
Stearate3.75% Paraben DU 0.75% Citric acid/NaOH qs to 6 -
@ToddZiegler69, yes, I tried Sepinov EMT 10 and I like it very much. I use it as a rheology modifier and stabiliser in most of my o/w emulsions. Actually they work amazingly together with Zen (you can use them alone or together).
The difference is basically Zen is more tolerant to electrolytes, so if you use aloe, extracts high in electrolytes, sodium PCA (not much) go for Zen because Sepinov will lose viscosity. They have very different textures, Sepinov is more soft and plastic, Zen is more slippery and fluffy. You can form water gels with both or use them as emulsifiers. You can use both as stabilisers. Both can be used in hot and cold process. To understand these materials, make a simple gel (say 10% of any oil, 2% of Zen/Sepinov and water qs) with each of them and see how they look, apply, feel on the skin. It will give you an idea of how to use them to achieve the texture you want. If you are buying from lotioncrafter, they also have Aristoflex AVC which is worth trying. -
There are many different formats of makeup removers: micellar water, cleansing milk, cleansing oil, surfactant based cleansers etc. Which one do you want to make? Why natural? Synthetic materials are more gentle in most vases.
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I make stick concealer for my own use and tried many options (oils and waxes) but unlike you my challenge is how to make it creamier
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You can replace oils to the ones that provide dryer feel, for example increase isododecane and reduce squalane and other veg oils. Regarding hardness, you can try polyethylene instead of microcrystalline wax. So you can replace all oils to isododecane and IPM and add higher melting point waxes.
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I try not to argue with professionals but I have a strong feeling it’s just a matter of choosing the right silicone
I guess the hair type that would “like” shea butter, should still like some heavy silicone (Dimethicone 1000) better -
Xanthan is anionic! Don’t mix cationic and anionic ingredients unless they are specifically designed for it. It has nothing to do with your symptoms but xanthan doesn’t belong to conditioner.
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I don’t know about acid rain but some diluted acids are great for skin
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Beeswax is not an emulsifier. Natural is not equal good (the opposite in most cases). A decent hair conditioner is made of cationic ingredients such as: Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Polyquaterniums (7, 10, 11 etc). A very good one also includes silicones. Oils don’t do anything good for hair except for making it greasy and heavy. Oils are added at 0.5% maximum for claims only. Bottom line: hair needs cationics and silicones, not oils and butters.
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These two are different questions and you should set up separate topics to discuss it. Also, you haven’t provided enough information to answer your question. When you say “heavy”, do you mean coverage? If yes, the answer is more pigments and more opacifiers, such as TiO2.
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I agree the mechanism of action of hydroquinone is not permanent by its substance. It’s blocking tyrosinase transfer only when applied. Once you stop applying it, the pigment gets back to normal (normal for the particular individual). But all research papers about its side effects specify that they were only observed after prolonged use of hydroquinone formulated at a very high concentration (and in many cases presence of substances like mercury). I haven’t seen any evidence suggesting that up to 4% of Hydroquinone that was used for no more than several months is dangerous (even for individuals with deeper skin tones). If someone has evidence, will be happy to change my mind.
So, I personally see it as a nice treatment for winter months to get rid of stubborn freckles that were developed during summer and potentially some larger sunspots, although as I mentioned previously, I am not very impressed yet. -
I have been using it for about a month already. I don’t see much difference yet to be honest. Maybe I had unrealistic expectations. Reduced freckles a bit. But the formula has 5% of lactic acid, and I bet it’s lactic acid did the job. A large sun spot is still there and overall complexion didn’t change. I have to notice it’s quite a simple ingredient to work with. Doesn’t cause a lot of trouble in formulating. It doesn’t cause any irritation or sensitivity either. Seems quite harmless to me so far.
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@Sponge, you are right! I recently bought red #7 and red #6 in castor oil but my previous two were in octyldodecanol, so both should be fine.
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Caprylic Capric Triglycerides and Octyldodecanol are more polar than castor oil. I think your problem is the viscosity. Castor oil is very thick compared to Octyldodecanol, so you can’t wet your pigment properly. I haven’t worked with 3 roll mill, but this is the case with manual mixing.
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Alpha bisabolol is an active that is added at very low % and has nothing to do with greasiness
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Interesting. I added it to cold water because it dissolves easily anyway. I will check again. I didn’t even consider it a true acid although it’s a PHA because it’s effect on pH was so minor.
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Although I don’t like unnecessary restrictions and prefer conventional (read scary synthetics) materials, I thinks TEA stearate should stay in 90’s (for leave in applications). It’s still heavily used by lush and aesthetics isn’t there. It’s easier to make an emulsion using good old Arlacel 165, and add polymeric emulsifier (such as Aristoflex AVC). Most of polymeric emulsifiers are anionic and as such improve stability and make the product very aesthetically pleasing.
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This is the most stable one:
INCI % Aqua 61.00% Betaine 3.00% Magnesium
Sulfate1.00% Sodium lactate 2.00% Euxyl PE 9010 1.00% PG 3.00% Phenyl trimethicone 3.00% Caprylic/Capric 1.00% Magnesium Stearate 0.50% Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone8.00% Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1
Dimethicone0.70% Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate 0.50% Color 15.00% HCO 0.30% It’s a foundation but it can be made into a moisturiser if you don’t add pigments. What I learnt so far, adding salt and Mg stearate is a must.
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@pccochran, it’s true about conventional W/O but modern materials allow creating high internal phase w/o with fantastic sensorial. Light and fluffy and yet cushiony. Very hard to stabilize unfortunately. The longest living prototype was just 4 months for me. Still trying
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Maybe I am too cynical but cosmetic industry causes much less damage than many other and they would bring more value if focused on more serious stuff. Hands off acrylates! ?
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Thank you, Perry. I was already scared that these environmental groups will try to ban Aristoflex soon. That would be a personal tragedy for me
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I guess if it’s dry enough it should work. I agree they are not perfectly even which you can see on my picture.
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Lots of great ingredients in that list.
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Use esters. Isopropyl Myristate (aka IPM) is easy to find, cheap and has a dry feel. Replace half of your oils with it and your product won’t be greasy. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is another good option (heavier than IPM). Esters are great.