ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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You need to hire a perfumer and give them the benchmark. It isn’t a theoretical exercise
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@Perry, the active ingredient is chloroxylenol. I understand it’s the main ingredient in all dettol products. They have a variety of household cleansers and sanitizing wipes and are very popular in the UK.
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The only way to see the difference is to make the same base with different thickeners and compare. Myristyl Myristate isn’t powdery at all. It’s more similar to beeswax. Again it’s very subjective, something that one person finds draggy another might find silky.
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Dettol is great though! I use dettol wipes to clean boxes and wipe the bottles with my ingredients.
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Retinol, Hydroquinone, Petrolatum, Salicylic Acid, Zinc Oxide, is just a couple of the ingredients that no one would argue about that came to my mind. There are definitely more.
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@natzam44, get a sample if you can. Or you can get small amount here https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/behenyl-alcohol
it’s an interesting ingredient but whether you would like it or not is a matter of personal preferences.
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I agree with @Gunther. Cetearyl is more draggy than cetyl.
Re: behenyl.. It’s a strange thing. Yes, it is silky-powdery but it’s also very draggy upon application. I managed to make one product where behenyl played well but it really depends on what else is in the formula and what result you want to achieve. Behenyl is definitely worth trying but it’s not very emollient.
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I saw studies that suggest that SA is still active even at pH around neutral.
I personally don’t like sepiplus 400, but I know many people who do. It makes white gel, but regardless of what Seppic says it’s not electrolyte resistant (not even close to Sepimax Zen) and it’s very easy to use too much. And when you use too much it balls (the products peels of the skin). Try it, it might be my personal bias. From Seppic’s I really like Simulgel EG.
Re hyaluronic, I don’t like it as a moisturiser, but it forms clear gels that can tolerate a significant amount of electrolytes and the texture is pleasant (unlike gums). It’s pricy but when I make serums with a high amount of actives for my own use I prefer gelling it with hyaluronic acid. -
1) Not the best emulsification system
2) Lecithin is utterly difficult to preserve and you are using not broad spectrum weak preservative
3) Leaving aside the preservative is weak, it’s in the cool-down phase. Preservative needs to preserve water, it’s less effective to add a preservative to the cool-down phase for w/o
4) Butters in w/o make it too greasy
5) You don’t have a stabiliser, add electrolytes. -
Technical issues: Sodium PCA and Zinc PCA are strong electrolytes they will break your carbomer right away. You need to find another thickener for this. A good option might be upping your hyaluronic acid to .05-.75% (I assume it’s high molecular weight). In my experience, it’s a very good gel maker that tolerates a lot (although expensive). Another option might be Sepimax Zen, but you need to test it. You can alternatively use a clear grade of xanthan, but I personally hate the texture it gives to a product.
Do you need that tocopheryl acetate? It doesn’t do anything but add problems (you need more solubiliser, more solubiliser means more foaming and less elegant application etc).
Preservation: phenoxy alone isn’t sufficient. It doesn’t cover mould and yeast. You need to pair it with something. At least use Euxyl PE9010 (phenoxy and EHG), but I would just go for parabens.
Efficacy: Zinc PCA is a good idea, but tea tree oil, although is very popular, isn’t the most effective ingredient for acne. A small amount of salicylic acid might give much better result (I am not talking peel level, but maybe 0.2%). You can also add niacinamide, it works well with zinc PCA. In this case (if you remove tocopheryl acetate and tea tree oil), you can skip solubilisers and make your formula more elegant and effective. -
@JPS if you have already achieved any results, post your formula. Don’t get me wrong, it’s totally fine to ask for a piece of advice and ask to help to fix your existing but poorly performing formula, but you should at least have a starting point or it’s getting too theoretical. How to make it stable? - it depends on million factors (what oils, what emulsifiers, what stabilisers, what process??). How to make it thicker? it depends on million of other factors.
Or as @Sponge has suggested, just search in this forum, I personally shared two well-performing water in silicones formulas that have not shown any visible signs of separation since July, and just recently provided a super detailed note on w/o stability. Search: foundation, w/o, w/si, water in oil, water in silicone. You can also read this: https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/306/pcc-ask-expert-water-oil-emulsion-unstable-can/ -
I can’t see how much they used. My anecdotal evidence suggests it’s the other way around. Glycols are much less problematic than some other humectants.
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If they sweat it means they are unstable. What are you trying to achieve, a thicker formula or a stable formula? It’s possible to make very thick w/o with high internal phase.
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You forgot one crucial thing. Salt (simple NaCl) to thicken it.
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@natzam44, if you don’t have any other thickeners (carbomers, polymeric emulsifiers, etc) start at 3%. But in general it depends on the formula. I use 5% in a conditioner for example.
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As per my understanding based on the preferences of two men who I know and who prefer “old fashioned” shaving soaps, soaps are less slippery which allows the better (closer?) “connection” between the skin and the razor (razor doesn’t slip over and there is no need to shave the same area several times). At least that’s how they explained it to me.
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@raveena, I don’t want to discourage you from formulating your own products, but, you would waste a lot of materials and time (years and thousands of dollars) before it will start making any sense. If you want to make a lotion with nice texture and add your favourite fragrance oil to it to gift it to your friends it’s one thing (you can totally do it), but if you want to get noticeable results it’s easier to buy.
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@Katrin2204, add water by drops and make sure each emulsifies It’s a tedious process. Once you do it right for the first time, you will know when the process goes right, when you can speed up, etc.
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If we are talking about high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid that is used for thickening purposes you won’t be able to dissolve more than 2% and even that would be unpleasant. From the cost-effectiveness point of view, it’s better to get the powder.
Don’t expect hyaluronic acid to have any significant effect on the dry skin. It’s overpriced and there are plenty of effective humectants for a fraction of a price.
There are vitamin C derivatives that oxidise less, but in my experience, they all do (at least the ones I tried) and it’s a matter of time. If the product is for personal use, you can make small batches of the serum (as simple as LAA, Water, HA) and keep in the fridge. It should be ok for 2-3 weeks. Again, don’t expect a drastic effect. I don’t want to discourage you from making something yourself but not all actives do work. In most cases it’s marketing.The best solution for problems you described (ageing skin with pigmentation) is prescription retinoids.
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What is “natural”? There is no definition of natural.
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PE 9010 is one of those rare preservatives that can be heated above 100C (as per schulke’s website). I use either PE 9010 or phenonip for w/o
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Acne-prone skin: benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, prescription-strength retinoids.
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Thank you @Pharma!
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If it was that easy cosmetic chemists wouldn’t have a job. https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Lip-Care-Product-Formulas_ep_98.html
Don’t expect it to be on the same quality as the professionally made one.
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Poly 80 only mixes with very polar oils. I think that C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is the most cost-effective option, but octyldodecanol and caprylic/capric triglicerides would work as well. You don’t need 50%, 15 to 20% is sufficient.