ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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@Pharma, It took me months, but I am happy to share my finding, Alkyl Benzoate is compatible with polysorbate 80. Made it in December, no signs of instability so far. I don’t even remember how many combinations I tried. When you work with polysorbates, all comes to polarity. No veg oil is polar enough. Although I had some success with sunflower seed oil it’s too early to make any statements.
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@shawna2 You are basically asking to do a job for which people are charging $3,000 to $6,000 (or more if it’s a contract manufacturer) for free. Not gonna happen.
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@Bill_Toge wouldn’t that be bug food anyway?
@EVchem, I posted that a while ago. I am really curious what’s in that tank. -
You might have two problems with polyglyceryl 4 oleate: it might form water resistant w/o, it might sit on the bottom of the bottle and would need shaking. Creating oil cleanser isn’t as easy as it sounds. Cithrol 10 GTIS is a bullet proof solution. It will dissolve in most types of oils no matter the polarity. I am not saying you cannot make other emulsifiers work but you will waste liters of materials until you establish % at which that emulsifier solubilises completely. It might be a razor thin balance. Saying it from the experience.
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Just keep in mind the thickening effect depends on polarity. The product I mentioned won’t thicken polar ester but will work with silicones and some hydrocarbons. Much worse with non-polar esters.
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@Pharma, may I ask which sunscreens are you referring to? I am asking because I have been using chemical sunscreens (I know they all are chemical, I mean everything that isn’t TiO2 and ZnO) for years and I am considering to switch to physical. I don’t make sunscreens myself and don’t know much.
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@Gunther I know it’s not in the US but they have international shipping
https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/carbopol-ultrez-21
They were out of stock for a long time and I noticed they brought it back. Not sure if it’s useful but provided that ultrez is out of stock everywhere may be better than nothing. I use google chrome’s translate function as I don’t speak Italian. -
“Myristyl myristate will whiten a product” It’s a lovely thickener but I haven’t noticed such a property.
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I can’t see the preservative.
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Why would you be checking whether it’s miscible or not if you know what are the ingredients? This method is not as reliable as it sounds and is only useful if you don’t have a list of ingredients (I can give you examples of o/w sunscreens that are absolutely not miscible with water yet it’s o/w). You can’t get W/O emulsion when you are using O/W emulsifier. Add NaOH and a preservative. I wouldn’t trust unpreserved emulsion with pH >3.
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165 can tolerate pretty extreme conditions (loads of electrolyte, low pH, almost any sort of additives), it makes very thin emulsions and you have flexibility when it comes to viscosity. I know it can emulsify a lot of oil (I tried up to 30% myself but I know it can do more). I started noticing that I love old materials. Arlacel 165, Polysorbates (you can do soo much with them), petrolatum. People like new fancy materials but very often old is gold. I even made a couple of TEA Stearate emulsions (have been playing with mascaras recently) and changed my mind that this approach to emulsions should stay in the past.
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They are very gentle and non irritating. If you are formulating gentle face wash or eye cream have a look at Germaben II. It also work well in clear products. If you are looking for a bulletproof system - Phenonip (needs heating) 4 parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Re Paula’s.. she is better that most sources in the internet. She demonizes alcohol in skincare as drying which isn’t necessary true (I personally think it’s not the alcohol but how it’s used). She also hates all types of fragrances which isn’t black or white matter either (although I don’t use it on my face either). She also often buys into marketing and believes that ceramides and peptides are great. I wish it was true but the research currently available isn’t sufficient to conclude that. My point is, if she says something is safe I think you can trust her. If she says some ingredient is fantastic, double check that. -
Yes, there’s an emulsifier that is used in huge numbers of high end product. It’s Arlacel 165 (GMS/PEG 100 stearate). It’s loved by the industry for versatility and reliability. But the ‘expensive’ feel is achieved through other additives, such as polymers and crosslinked silicones. If you want something that emulsifies and provides nice feel check Seppic’s polymeric emulsifiers, however you will be very limited with what you can add to your formula. Have a look at Chanel’s moisturizers. You will find a combination of Arlacel 165 plus Aristoflex AVC in most of them. The same trick will work with Arlacel 165 and pretty much any Seppic’s polymer (o/w) too.
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If oils are non-polar and you are looking for a clear product you need either micronised silica or silica dimethyl silylate.
This one works with silicones https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/818/235792/Covasilic-15 -
Moreover, there was a lady in one of formula botanica’s groups on Facebook who was thanking them for sharing this formula, because it’s their quote “best seller”. I even asked her whether she sells (because I couldn’t believe my eyes) it and she confirmed it.
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I don’t have experience with cream eyeshadows (although I attempted to make cream blush), but generally speaking, it’s very hard to achieve batch to batch consistency. You would need to invest in outrageously expensive scales (0.000) too.
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All fragrances can cause allergic reactions. Some more, some less but generally speaking it’s better to avoid them in leave-on products. I would argue that synthetic FOs are safer than natural EOs. At least you know what’s in them.
With ingredients that are fluff.. most of them. Even Vitamin C is kind of questionable. -
Your product is too viscous for a sprayer bottle. If it’s from lotioncrafter get the ultra low. Or save money and effort and replace it with another humectant.
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This is what they suggested as a sanitiser:
Phase Ingredient % A Aloe vera Juice 1:1 51.40% A Witch hazel 40.00% A Panthenol 0.50% A Chelator – Dermofeel PA3 0.10% B Glycerine 3.50% B Konjac gum 1.00% B Xanthan gum 0.25% C Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.00% C Preservative Eco 0.80% C Sweet Orange essential oil 0.20% C Eucalyptus essential oil 0.15% C Tea tree essential oil 0.10% https://formulabotanica.com/natural-hand-sanitiser/
It’s not even a home-crafter level.
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Here is my advice, do not learn to formulate from Formula Botanica. I saw their formulas that are in free access and this is a disaster.
1) They suggest making a water-based toner with added essential oils without an emulsifier. It was obvious from the pictures that oil floats on the top of the liquid and then they added a note that if you don’t like it, wait for a week until it gets “infused” and they filter the water through a coffee filter.
2) They suggest preparing sanitiser without alcohol, that is based on useless essential oils during the global pandemic and are totally aware that people are copying their formula and put themselves in danger.
3) They also propose formulas with poor emulsification and preservative systems (because if you have any experience it becomes obvious). Even Marie from Humblebee and me is a better formulator. -
sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) - how many daltons?
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Sodium Lactate is more hygroscopic than glycerin. It’s also less sticky and shouldn’t be expensive.
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It was my understanding that without a buffer pH might drift. I managed to work out Henderson-Hasselbalch equation for lactic acid buffer but my knowledge of chemistry isn’t on the level that would allow to account for all elements of a complex system. I saw ‘fruit acids’ marked at home crafters with lactic acid buffer. The pH of those ‘materials’ is locked at a level that is high enough that people without pH meter can’t hurt themselves, that is what brought the idea to buffer glycolic acid this way.
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On a separate note, phenoxy alone isn’t broad spectrum. You need something to cover mould and fungi
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@Tendo, as it was mentioned by others glucosides make very poor shampoo. They tangle hair and feel draggy when you lather them with your fingers. You absolutely can make an ok body and hand wash with them. Those are just not great for hair. Re SCI, it a mild surfactant but you can’t use it in a liquid product because it has very poor solubility. If you see SCI in commercial products it’s in the bottom of the list, because they used just a couple of %
I understand you, I can never have enough ingredients. I run out of storage space but continue ordering more.