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Is there a go to emulsifier for premium lotions?
Maybe I can save myself some time and samples, by just simply asking….
Is there a go to premium emulsifier in the industry, that provides amazing feel, no soaping, and great hydration with a stable emulsion, and easy to work with?
I am aware that emulsifiers will work differently with different ingredient sets….but do the major players making premium product lines, have a certain emulsifier that they try first? Or one that has a history of ending up in the industries top sensory products?
Maybe as I am new at this….I am asking to emulsifier to do too much….emulsify and provide some of the overall sensory experience? Should I just focus on the emulsifier being an emulsifier…and the rest of the experience comes from the additives?
The formula is pretty typical…with 14% mixed oils and 3% butters. No silicones, but some natural substitutes.
Thank you in advance.
Right now….maybe Heliofeel is about as good as I have found.
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6 Replies
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Yes, there’s an emulsifier that is used in huge numbers of high end product. It’s Arlacel 165 (GMS/PEG 100 stearate). It’s loved by the industry for versatility and reliability. But the ‘expensive’ feel is achieved through other additives, such as polymers and crosslinked silicones. If you want something that emulsifies and provides nice feel check Seppic’s polymeric emulsifiers, however you will be very limited with what you can add to your formula. Have a look at Chanel’s moisturizers. You will find a combination of Arlacel 165 plus Aristoflex AVC in most of them. The same trick will work with Arlacel 165 and pretty much any Seppic’s polymer (o/w) too.
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ngarayeva001 said:Yes, there’s an emulsifier that is used in huge numbers of high end product. It’s Arlacel 165 (GMS/PEG 100 stearate). It’s loved by the industry for versatility and reliability.Yes, I have 165 and in fact have selected it for the other project that I am developing simultaneously, a very difficult to emulsify mosquito lotion.
In the beginning, I had hoped that I could end up….with a one size fits all emulsifier, and after chasing all the ‘fancy’ emulsifiers around….might just end up with 165 as my all around.
Interesting note…. My mosquito lotion has lots of Vanillin in it…which causes terrific oxidation/browning. 165 is the only emulsifier that almost single handedly kept the browning at bay. I also found that the vanillin would recrystallize in about 80% of the emulsifiers I tried, giving the feel of a little grit or sand in the product (totally unacceptable).Thank you for confirming that thought. I have some products arriving from Floratech tomorrow, and I am hoping they will put my premium lotion….over the top. Right now it is good….just not blow your mind….amazing!
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165 can tolerate pretty extreme conditions (loads of electrolyte, low pH, almost any sort of additives), it makes very thin emulsions and you have flexibility when it comes to viscosity. I know it can emulsify a lot of oil (I tried up to 30% myself but I know it can do more). I started noticing that I love old materials. Arlacel 165, Polysorbates (you can do soo much with them), petrolatum. People like new fancy materials but very often old is gold. I even made a couple of TEA Stearate emulsions (have been playing with mascaras recently) and changed my mind that this approach to emulsions should stay in the past.
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ngarayeva001 said:I started noticing that I love old materials. Arlacel 165, Polysorbates (you can do soo much with them),
In my former life, I used to say, the only reason a product gets ‘old’ is because it has done a good job for a long time!
Per another suggestion on a related question…. I think I will give one more product a try…. Montanov 202.I like the thin emulsion that 165 creates…gives me total control on what I use as thickener, and how thick I make it…. Hehehe….lets me choose between flip tops and pumps!
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Don’t waste your time and money with the Montanov 202. I have been used it in the past, and have to say that it is a bit tricky emulsifier with unpredictable stability.
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for sensory modifiers I’d also suggest checking out Agrana and AkzoNobel’s starch-based polymers
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