mikethair
Forum Replies Created
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mikethair
MemberApril 29, 2022 at 11:58 pm in reply to: Do you think the US cosmetic industry needs more regulation?Agree. Our manufacturing is based in Malaysia which has strong GMP Certification. Enforcement by regulatory authorities is always a struggle for any country.We mainly focus on Private Label / OEM for local and overseas brands, including the USA and Europe. And you guessed it, we have found barriers to entry to the USA almost non-existent. And the EU is very strict in our experience. And the same for the Japanese brands we manufacture. -
mikethair
MemberApril 15, 2022 at 6:29 am in reply to: Which of these two water is better for cosmetic use? Unfiltered or reverse osmosis waste waterWe have a RO unit. But we test regularly in our lab to maintain quality.
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mikethair
MemberMarch 25, 2022 at 9:36 pm in reply to: How do you measure the pH of your formulations / products?Ahhh…..the much-maligned pH test strip. If you choose good quality strips, Merck for example, get the job done.Ok, but not to 2 decimal point accuracy.During my chemistry / biochemistry lecturing days it was a practical lab I would set for students. Identify pH standards in the food and cosmetics industry, tabulate these, then on a series of samples measure pH using a meter and test strips. They would then summarise the two sets of results and comment on the relative accuracy of both methods.In our own cosmetics manufacturing facility, I encourage our QC Manager to use pH test strips for IPQM. At the final stages, for example with batch retained samples, then the pH meter is used. Both sets of results are recorded and retained.It works for us. But again, we’re talking good quality pH strips. -
mikethair
MemberFebruary 25, 2022 at 9:07 pm in reply to: Looking for chemist/manufacturer for Asian-inspired skincare lineHi,Our company Indochine Natural was launched in Ha Noi, Viet Nam, and in 2009 we relocated our factory to Penang Island, Malaysia.Our Inspiration
First,
the historic spice trade that existed between Indochina and Europe.
Aromatics have always been highly prized articles of luxury and
refinement.Trade routes developed in the relentless search for fragrance
ingredients. From Indochina, sailing ships carried ginger, nutmeg,
saffron, and cloves to Europe. Too precious to eat, they were used in
fragrant formulations to scent the body.The second was a street in Ha Noi named Lang Ong after the medic and
writer Hai Thuong Lan Ong (1724-1791). Today you can still find all
kinds of herbs and traditional medicine on Lan Ong street. It was the
atmosphere and aromas of this street that influenced the founding of
Indochine Natural.Indochine Natural moved to Penang Island, Malaysia in 2009. A place of
beauty and intrigue since its time at the centre of the spice trade in
the eighteenth century. The island became a key maritime base for trade
routes from Europe, the Orient, India, and China.This rich history inspires our products. We formulate products with the all-natural, evocative fragrances of the spice route.
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And we take a completely different approach. We saponify coconut oil. It produces a popular shampoo that we market under our own brand, plus we Private Label to local and international brands.For many customers, it works. And they have been regular buyers for 10+ years.
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It’s the specific gravity issue that requires us to calibrate the container to be used by the customer before calculating the batch size and pricing.We use grams as the unit of measurement.And fluid ounces, a measure of volume…..no thanks. A PIA.
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Yes, I agree. This does not follow normal business practices.However, having said that the onus is on you to have some agreement in hand before making a payment. And the agreement should include the deliverables and proposed timeline.Did you have an agreement?We provide formulation services, and providing a simple agreement is certainly our practice.
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mikethair
MemberJanuary 21, 2022 at 10:37 pm in reply to: Contract manufacturing; how to set prices ?In our case, we price based on the ingredient costs with a healthy margin to cover all costs including our premises and labour costs, plus a profit margin.We would not differentiate between who paid the IP cost, and just straight private label filling. In both cases, you need to cover your manufacturing costs and make a profit.And a question. How did you arrive at a cost of $8,000 for the formulations? -
In my opinion, while the contract is important, in our case we also make sure that all bases are covered in terms of our manufacturing. In our case, we are GMP Certified and audited. This provides a lot of protection.You can have the best contract in the world, but you remain exposed if you don’t have the manufacturing quality side of things certified.
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We purchase hydrosols without preservatives, and on arrival at our production facility, they are tested in our microbial lab. And again, before the product is released to consumers.We buy another ingredient from a different company that has preservatives added (it’s Floral Water). More often than not it arrives with a high microbial count. They say there are issues with their RO water.I don’t take any notice of marketing hype from ingredient sellers.
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Yes, a lot of BS on pH with skincare.And here is my spin on the issue:
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We do the standard Stability Test at 45ºC for three months (in an incubator). Then our QC Manager uses retained samples for Real Time testing. Every month she will monitor and record data from some basic lab tests plus organoleptic tests. We now have data from 10+ years of testing.In all cases, the Rapid Stability testing has been 100% accurate. And for some of the brands we manufacture for, we have been able to extend the use-by-dates where necessary,
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Yep, significant issues. After delays, we have two shipments in the air right now with FedEx from two different suppliers. In this part of the world, they will come via China, and usually, they would e there just 3-4 hours. In recent times this has stretched to 3-4 days.
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Then within the context of your post, I’m really left field and outside the box….. we saponify plant oils to make soap. Yep, these products of the saponification reaction break surface tension effectively, and are not named dimethicone.
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I have a science degree, MSc and PhD….. and have been formulating for my own brand and other brands for around 20 years. I call myself a Master Formulator. As @Perry says, call yourself whatever you like, but I think you must be comfortable with it.
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I have used Ohaus for many years, and have found their balances robust and straightforward to use.As we operate a GMP Certified manufacturing facility, we have them calibrated annually by a certified company.
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PhilGeis said:I’d not count on dip slides beyind water testing for anything beyond hygiene monitoring, hobby and presumptive testing.We have used Schuelke Mikrocount in our GMP Certified production facility for years. But they need to be used intelligently.PET/Challenge Tests are done in an external, certified lab. Regularly, the Schuelke Mikrocount results are validated with samples being sent to an external certified lab.Over the five years we have used Schuelke Mikrocount they have not let us down. But again, this outside validation of results is an important part of our regime.
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mikethair
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 7:11 am in reply to: What actually constitutes the IP of a formulation?Cosmetic_Chemist said:We usually do not share the suppliers but we do include trade names with the INCI so that they know which ingredients were a blend.I think it can be as much detail as you want or as little detail you want to provide. As long as they have enough information to recreate the product.
You can send them just the formula, INCI, spec sheets and manufacturing procedure and call it a day.
Yes agreed Cosmetic_Chemist . And I guess the info required very much depends on the buyer, where they are located, and the relevant cosmetic compliance requirements.
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mikethair
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 7:08 am in reply to: What actually constitutes the IP of a formulation?Perry said:If I were buying a formula, I would want the following.- Ingredient percentages
- Ingredient names & suppliers
- Ingredient specifications
- Manufacturing procedure (including specific equipment types used)
- Final product specifications
- Packaging specification (if there are any)
- Test data and procedures (including any claims & how they are supported)
- MSDS
- All info needed for EU product dossier
I don’t imagine everyone selling formulas would want to provide this though.
Lol, that’s being realistic. Thanks Perry
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mikethair
MemberDecember 2, 2021 at 8:22 am in reply to: Water quality for cold process formulationsoneway said:mikethair said:MarkBroussard said:The manufacturing of water sold in supermarkets is highly regulated and the water undergoes extensive testing. The likelihood that you will encounter a contaminated container of distilled water on the supermarket shelves is extremely low.A common perception. But not in our experience. We test this water in our microbial lab, and occasionally we detect contaminated batches. Returned two bottles just the other week.Some years ago I was asked to do a consultancy for one of the largest bottled water suppliers in Australia. My initial evaluation revealed inadequately qualified and trained QC and laboratory staff, and vastly inadequate lab equipment and water testing protocols. This experience shattered my assumptions about the bottled water industry.I have a small home-based lab. Can you recommend an affordable testing kit for water? Thanks in advance.
Hi @oneway
In our labs we use the following across in-process testing and in our lab.:Ohaus Starter 3100 pH meter.PC 60 pH/cond/TDS/Sal.Tuttnauer autoclavemikrocount combi dipslides -
mikethair
MemberDecember 1, 2021 at 10:09 pm in reply to: Ownership of Formulation Intellectual Property (IP)Thanks, @MarkBroussard this makes a lot of sense.Of course, the key is what to charge for the IP. Are there any generally accepted fee rates for formulations? -
Thanks. Good advice.
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mikethair
MemberNovember 26, 2021 at 9:45 pm in reply to: Water quality for cold process formulationsMarkBroussard said:The manufacturing of water sold in supermarkets is highly regulated and the water undergoes extensive testing. The likelihood that you will encounter a contaminated container of distilled water on the supermarket shelves is extremely low.A common perception. But not in our experience. We test this water in our microbial lab, and occasionally we detect contaminated batches. Returned two bottles just the other week.Some years ago I was asked to do a consultancy for one of the largest bottled water suppliers in Australia. My initial evaluation revealed inadequately qualified and trained QC and laboratory staff, and vastly inadequate lab equipment and water testing protocols. This experience shattered my assumptions about the bottled water industry. -
Ilsme said:Graillotion said:mikethair said:The allergens analysis in a CoA is important.
Help me learn…as I use some EO’s in a certain project. When you say allergen analysis in a CofA…. I have not seen such wording.
I will paste an example below…from my supplier. Does that mean that the TWO items that are listed, those are the probable allergens of the the 67 constituents in that EO?
If so, I did not know that before.
In EU there is a list of 26 allergens you have to declare on LOI if the product contains more then 0,01% (in leave on). I normaly ask for a List of allergens separately cause not all companies put it on the CoA.
I´m not sure why Eugenol is listed twice there on your CoA. To my knowledge Beta Carophyllene is not listed as allergen yet.The Eugenol is not listed twice. The 60 - 95% is the expected range of results, and the 74.70% is the measured result.Sometimes it’s a case of the blind leading the blind. Customers who don’t understand these documents, and the same applies to ingredient suppliers.