Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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Microformulation
MemberAugust 17, 2015 at 2:55 pm in reply to: You have unlimited research money - What cosmetic science question would you investigate?I think I would work on developing a new class of topical items similar to Nutritional products.
In the Natural Market we use many botanical products and try to assign properties/benefits to them which would cause them to encroach upon OTC products. This causes a great deal of issues.
I would propose creating a new class of Topical products which utilize herbal/botanical extracts and allow limited claims to be made. In addition I would require that they provide credible citations to justify their claims. These new topical products would have a similar warning to Nutritionals (These claims have not been evaluated by the FDA…….).
The largest outlay initially would be administrative. Clear lines would have to be drawn and conditions treated/claims would have to be limited so as not to interfere with competent medical care when warranted. Documentation standards would have to be defined. At this point of course there would be legislative hurdles to meet in order to get the class codified.
Many will ask why I would do this as on the surface it would facilitate the “naturalistic fallacy.” In fact my goal is diametrically opposed to this danger. I feel it would serve to limit over reaching claims in the natural market, encourage good research into the claims/benefits and clarify the “natural” skincare market.
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What is the net percentage (wt/wt) of the Essential Oil?
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Microformulation
MemberAugust 13, 2015 at 9:51 pm in reply to: Skincare Line Preparations and PlanningAlso I would think about revisiting your decision to manufacture your own line. As Perry points out you will have significant marketing tasks ahead of you to make your product successful which will take a large part of your time. Secondly, it is an error to under estimate the administrative burden to properly document, track and monitor your Production under cGMP conditions. This administrative burden ensures your product is consistent, safe and effective. Lastly, if your marketing efforts are successful you will not be able to meet your production demands. This is an all too common mistake in the smaller lines. You will find that by the time you realize this and scramble to out source manufacturing, you will be 90 days behind. During this time you will see out of stocks and inventory shortages which in turn will be detrimental to all your marketing efforts.
In a Cosmetic Start-up you need to address your strengths and weaknesses. You can either be a manufacturer/formulator who needs a businessperson/salesperson/marketer or vice versa. It is terribly difficult and almost impossible to take on both roles especially if your line grows.
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I am not sure about all that but I generally avoid them like the plague. They have issues with coverage and stability. Several years ago we tried them extensively and either had PET failures or saw long term stability issues.
There is a company in Texas, that pushed Natural (and that is all I will reveal) that used them extensively. I believe even this company has moved away from them.
There are just so many better and less reactive preservatives.
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Go back through the post advertising Consultants and Formulators. Over the past few months there have been several consultants posting who work in the Color Cosmetics niche. Reach out to temand you should get the help you need.
For example if you look Venera advertised in April as a Consultant in Color Cosmetics. I referred someone to her recently and she did get back to them promptly.
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Microformulation
MemberAugust 2, 2015 at 12:06 am in reply to: Nail polish horror - What could cause this (nail lifting from nailbed)?I would direct this question to Doug Schoon at Schoon Scientific (easily googled). He is hands down one of the most knowledgeable in this area.
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Can’t speak to the urine, but back in 1991 when I was in Desert Storm the Saudis fed us Camel T-bones steaks. They were great but about twice the size of a normal T-bone.
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I have never made one myself but I do recall some starting Formulations using that combination.
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You would be hard pressed to develop, test, and package an effective and safe product before the Holidays.
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There is a reason we get University level training in Cosmetic Science. Those materials could be dangerous but that is less likely than the difficulty working with those products. It takes years to learn the properties of those materials. Hire a Consultant.
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DHA is most stable at a pH in the range of 4. Over time the cream will migrate down to about 3.9 pH. It will preserve with phenoxyethanol. It does react with proteins and iron oxides. It works best with nonionic emulsifiers.
I have had good results with PE9010 as a preservative.
I have made too many of these products to count. The real secret is treating your DHA as an expendable. Keep it refrigerated until you use it.
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Do you have working percentages? Mind you I am nit llooking for a Formulation but for guidance with the usage of the material.
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Yes it is. Also used in brewing to clarify beer. Commonly called “water glass.”
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I have worked with several of their bases and they are very mild and effective. If I have any one caveat it is that you will need to use a little effort to get them to thicken. I believe in the end it was Glucamate VLT that finally did the trick.
No problem for the help. One advantage many of us have is that we are on the radar of the Chemical reps and we get the products aggressively detailed to us.
Also, you may want to check out Colonial Chemicals site as well. They have a great selection of surfactants and surfactant bases. Unlike some suppliers they also sell in pails. http://www.colonialchem.com/
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You may want to also take a look at the Iselux line of surfactants from Innospec (INCI Name:
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate). These are already solubilized and are very mild. They provide a great deal of guidance in their use and formulation. -
That is about 125 pounds or so. On the small side by still possible.
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Microformulation
MemberJuly 22, 2015 at 7:51 pm in reply to: No salt Shampoo Cocoamidemea solubility issuesI have used Glyceryl monostearate for pearlizing effect with ok effect. I have been more impressed with Glycol distearate. I was especially impressed with Quickpearl PK3 from Lubrizol since it can easily be incorporated in a cold mix process quite easily.
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Try Susan Raffy at Susan Raffy Consulting. http://www.rockstarchemist.com/
Can’t say for sure if she will go that low, but it doesn’t huirt to ask.
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Agree with Bob. Also, in a shampoo 5% Glycerin could have an effect on foaming and foam height.
Even in my lab with prototyping I make 0.86 KG batches. (Weird number but it is 12 ounces plus a small loss factor which is enough to support testing as well).
Mixing surfactants is definitely an area where you have to take care to mix slowly. You would really need a variable speed blender to do this, which I hope you have. A stick blender is a recipe for disaster in these products.
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If you are looking to thicken alcohol based products you will really be looking at the technology used in making hand sanitizers which is what Carbopol Ultrez 21 excels at. Read closely and use the recommended neutralizers that they endorse for the appropriate alcohol level. For more info read THIS also.
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Carbapol Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol. (Refer to this article)
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500 pieces may be harder to do. Do you have a completed and testing formulation? Depending on your location I could possibly give you a referral. Begging down to 500 pieces would be on you.
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Microformulation
MemberJuly 15, 2015 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Do you follow the EWG Skin Deep Database?I think there are any number of better databases. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review for example. The EWG Database has no value for anyone trying to formulate or practice Cosmetic Science. It is too flawed and partial.
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Microformulation
MemberJuly 14, 2015 at 2:04 pm in reply to: Chlorine removal from hair/Swimmers’ ShampooGenerally these products use a chelant such as Disodium EDTA to assist in removing the chlorine. The theory rests on the properties of chelants to bind to metallic ions and to facilitate their removal.
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Microformulation
MemberJuly 14, 2015 at 2:00 pm in reply to: Minimum Warehouse Size for Cosm. Man. Permit ?Not a problem. Over time on this discussion board you will get to know who is where and does what. David is out of Florida and does great work. I have sent several clients his way with universally positive results.