Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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And Tocopherol is an antioxidant, not a preservative so YES, you need a preservative.
You refer to an oil phase but I don’t see one listed. Is the Formula complete?
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More problems than that. Grapefruit Seed Extract is not the best preservative by far. Use a better more effective preservative. Problem solved.
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I would simply say that you need to let the Marketers know that if the supplier says it, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they can.
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One issue I struggle with from suppliers is when my clients read the claims and look at the “studies” which the suppliers provide, touting physiological benefits that go above and beyond what you can claim for a Cosmetic. Some newer clients who are less versed in the limitations of Cosmetic Claims will interpret this as permission to cross this line in their marketing. I have to point out to them that a raw material and a finished Cosmetic good have different standards.
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If you look at the designed studies evaluating new materials for decreasing TEWL, Petrolatum is usually the “gold standard” that the tested materials try to emulate. I do recall Moringa Butter being one of the best.
I suppose the question is why do you want to move away from Petrolatum? Is it an ussie with the purported safety? Much of the bias is unwarranted, but conversely, this bias has spawned a huge market for petrolatum replacements. If it were just to find a “better” product, I think you are there already. You may want to consult a Physician or consider adding a topical corticosteroid.
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@Taher The textbook answer which is probably not realistic in this case is 1. get some traditional Chemistry education 2. Start at the bottom and 3. Learn all that you can.
It will take some extra effort to learn independently, but I know some people have done it. Just avoid the one error most people make; “It can’t be that hard?” I would doubt that there is a single person in the Industry who doesn’t continue to learn on a daily basis. Also, as I said, the fundamentals pay off. You would be surprised how often Chem 101 and Organic Chemistry pops up.
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There is so much more to the process that you haven’t even considered. It far exceeds temperatures and times. Do you have a cGMP/SOP program in place? What is the state of your QC program? What are your testing protocols? Don’t get offended, but this is far more complicated than the lay person believes. I will honestly say that it was a few years in Contract Manufacturing and the exposure to these programs before I would have even considered taking on such a task.
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You could try using a premilled dispersion. I have had some very easy products lately using the G-Block products. Nailed the SPF and Spectrum right on the first try.
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@ZinkYou are correct. I have had several clients who have been approved for years to sell on Amazon just get a notice from them out of the blue. If they haven’t gotten one yet, it is likely coming.
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This came up earlier in the year in one of the groups I participate in. Essentially they use an untested preservative system that borrows aspects from the hurdle technique. It may or may not work. However, they wrap it in marketing and interestingly enough they were aggressive in confronting anyone who challenged their claims. Basically, some science wrapped in layers of marketing.
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My background is in Pharmacy and we used to compound specialty ophthalmic preparations. Cyclosporine for dry eye comes to mind, although it is available commercially now. We did it in a laminar flow hood using aseptic technique, To really get good with aseptic technique takes training and practice. Honestly much of it is driven home by days and weeks of experience in the hood. It becomes muscle memory.
I also did QA at a large Pharmaceutical manufacturer are well and they manufactured these products in a clean room under sterile condition’s and irradiated the containers for sterility.
Again, this is not something you learn on line. Otherwise it is a therapeutic misadventure waiting to happen.
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In College we completed several credit hours before attempting any sterile products. To attempt this without specific training and “searching well” as ones sole credential is both reckless and dangerous. Hopefully you have the training and access to a laminar flow hood.
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Chlorhexidine is also used dental products and prescription mouthwashes like Peridex to treat gingivitis. https://www.drugs.com/mtm/peridex-oral-rinse.html
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If you are in the US there are numerous suppliers of Cosmetic grade Colloidal Oatmeal, JE Edwards is one. If you can get a standardized and commercially produced raw material, it is really a waste of time to make you own.
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Buy Oat Oil from a reputable supplier.
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I worked with an OLD Batchmaster once and his rule of thumb was to use 25% of the oil load of Ewax (here I refer to Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 which is properly known as Emulsifying Wax, NF). He then would say “If it isn’t Polawax add another 1%.” He was an interesting character. Needless to say, this is a great beginning emulsifier, but my personal opinion is that there are numerous superior emulsifiers and I can hardly see any reason to launch a product with Ewax.
I also think Belassi is spot on about the graininess. -
I do believe that your emulsifying wax is too low for such a high oil load, about 32.71%. Rule of thumb used to be 25% of your oil load. However, especially with the stearic acid, at these levels you will see “soaping.” Also, you can use an emulsion stabilizer such as a carbomer or natural gum in the water phase. So, less oil, more Ewax or I suggest a better emulsifier and lastly an emulsion stabilizer. No offense please, but this is essentially a very rudimentary or beginner Formula. I would explore other emulsifiers and actives. Ask yourself, “What claims and benefits am I trying to deliver with this product?” Moisturization? Something as easy as adding a glycol to the water phase would help a bit. Numerous actives are available. A great product delivers a claim in a parallel manner and delivers several claims as well.
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It is difficult to really weigh-in since you are using volume, not wt/wt%. This is one of the many reasons we weigh out materials, not use volumetric measures. In this case it would make it easy to judge the percentages and see where you have an issue.
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@Mary24 That is likely outside of the scope of this forum. My background started in Pharmaceutical manufacturing. As I said, it will need to be done in a Pharmaceutical setting with a laminar flow hood.
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This is a product that would need to be produced under sterile conditions such as a laminar flow hood.
This is not a simple product nor would it be a Cosmetic, (I am assuming it is meant to be applied to the eye itself).
This would be a Pharmaceutical product and if you don’t have the training nor the proper equipment, you would be reckless, foolish and dangerous to attempt such a product.
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@Belassi This is an issue that needs to be discussed more in-depth.
Firstly, Polysorbates and other ethoxylated compounds were found to have 1,4 Dioxane produced as a by product of the manufacturing process.
Then, 1,4 Dioxane was identified as being a known carcinogen.
So, one can assume that we must arbitrarily avoid Polysorbates, right?
No, wrong. In response to these findings the manufacturers of these materials found new ways to reduce the concentrations of 1,4 Dioxane. In fact, one of the fields that the distributors will include on the SDS’s now is an assay of the 1,4 Dioxane levels. They allow a very low level. In fact, their allowable level is so low that in falls well within the allowable standards under California Prop 65.
So, we can use them? Yes, but as we all know, the “natural” markets oftentimes react emotionally and after the issue of 1,4 Dioxane came up, they banned them and will likely never revisit the issue. And then perception becomes reality.
Lastly, one should avoid throwing around the term “toxic” freely. As you know, toxic is a measurable, objective term. I feel that if one makes the statement that a product is toxic, they should be prepared to provide an LD50 and other specs to me. As we all know, the saying is (roughly), “it is the dose that makes the poison.”
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There are numerous modalities that they try. Years ago aminophylline was hot as was caffeine. Now, Provital has some slimming actives. Provislim and Coffee ECO.
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You will likely have to foray into flavoring components, an area more developed in Food Science. The base can be made safe and translucent.
Basically you could make a thickened simple solution (i e gel) and then solubulize the flavoring agents.
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That is how I read it. @mikethair is about the only regular contributor who I can think of who is located in that region, but of course he, like the rest of us wouldn’t provide free work product (a complete Formula that is safe, effective with manufacturing instructions).
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If you are referring to an anti-cellulite product, there are some pertinent articles in this months Cosmetic and Toiletries. As for just giving you a Formulation, that is really like asking for free product. Many of us in this forum do this for a living and it is counter-intuitive that someone would just give you a Formulation.
I have done several if you would like to look at our website and consider a Formulation service.