Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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No problem. If you read up, the number relates to the average molecular weight of the ethoxylated compound. They are great products, but if you sell, any “natural” markets would balk at the PEG’s.
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@BeardlyGentlemen You would have to ask whoever does the lab work. On paper I don’t see any glaring issues. I avoid these products since there is always a gap in performance between “natural” and mainstream products. Everything looks ok for a standard Clay Paste.Are you weighing your materials? No Formula should ever use drops in the measurements. Drops are not within the acceptable range of accuracy.“I think the problem is not in the humidity of the room, since I have a sample made more than a month ago, he visited me in different rooms, and he still accumulates condensate on the can lids.”It is not the humidity in the rooms that it is used that is an issue. It is the manufacturing process. It is the humidity/temperature of manufacturing that would be causing this issue.
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@ngarayeva001 You refer to PEG-150 as if it is a material. Do you know what PEG-150 refers to? Just an initial search shows PEG-150 in the name of at least 48 different raw materials used in Cosmetics.
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These are rather elementary questions. Have you looked for the answers yourself in the Journals? (C&T, HAPPI, etc). No offense, but this broad topic is better explored as personal research from credible sources. It is pretty broad and a comprehensive targeted reading would be infinitely more effective than a discussion board Q and A. (Teach a man to fish…)
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First, the measurement of temperature in GOOD Science is Celcius. Honestly, even as an American, when it comes to Formulating, I can not think in F.“The humidity should not be high.” Yes, but have you measured it? Should and actual testing are different standards. One is correct. I will let you decide which.You may be seeing some condensate from the headspace cooling due to humidity.Again, without a failed sample, it is all guessing.
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High levels of Glycerin can be sticky. In many cases, we decrease the Glycerin. High levels of Glycerin can be used if the Formula uses other raw materials to offset the stickiness.Experienced Formulators will often use a combination of Glycols. For example, my go-to is usually Glycerin, Propanediol and Methyl Gluceth-10.
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@Belassi And processed by inmates in Her Majesty’s Prison!
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@Dtdang Dermatitis is simply a general term that describes irritation/inflammation of the skin. There are several types of dermatitis.When a product irritates the skin, generally due to some chemical property, we have contact dermatitis. It is a prostaglandin mediated reaction. In mild cases, discontinuing the product and using a topical corticosteroid will usually alleviate the symptoms.When the body exhibits a TRUE allergic dermatitis, this is an immune response utilizing immunomodulators (very simple, Immunology was 4 credit hours so more than this forum is meant to dwell into). Discontinuing the product and possibly using an antihistamine will handle the least complicated presentations.There are numerous other types of dermatitis nummular, atopic (eczema for example) atopic and several others I can’t recall right off.Shea is a common irritant in many. I would encourage you to read up on it, especially the cross incidence of allergy between Shea and Latex.How common an ingredient has no bearing on the properties of the products.For example, “I do not understand how cigarettes cause cancer. They are very common.”
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@mikethair touches on the fact that this issue is considered when designing a manufacturing plant. Smooth sealed walls, etc. These are issues that the FDA has listed in their cGMP List for small manufacturers.Ultimately this is why I will not work with lines who want to manufacture out of the “home.” It is problematic to control all these factors in this setting. For example, I agree 100% with @m@mikethair that tile surfaces should be avoided. Avoid porous surfaces. Never share food prep areas with manufacturing areas.
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What is your manufacturing process? What temp are you pouring at? What is the measured humidity in your manufacturing area?
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There simply isn’t enough information to weigh-in. Ultimately you would likely need to hire a trained Chemist to help. Is it condensate or is it an instability in the Formula.I would say to start here you would need to post the Formula and your manufacturing instructions.
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@ngarayeva001 Food Science is a separate discipline and it is a huge cognitive dissonance to blithely lump them together. The industries have different Marketing bias, different marketing emphasis, and numerous technical differences.
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So “natural” means no chemicals?
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At a minimum, a “natural” material should be plant-based minimally processed. As ethoxylated compounds, Polysorbates are avoided. Also, with the 1,4 Dioxane scare you will get some marketing pushback.Remember, “natural” does not equal safe. Synthetic does not equal dangerous. That is the Naturalistic fallacy.
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I will say that the Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose acts as a foam booster and we spent the most time optimizing this aspect.
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Due to the higher pH of a saponified product, I would avoid them in sensitive products or personal hygiene.What is the pH of the sample?
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@ngarayeva001 When they suggested Cocamide MEA, he went way off the reservation regarding “natural.” He would need to select another more acceptable high HLB product.The options are many here, but it seems as if the OP has limited availability. It will be a matter of what is available, then what has the proper HLB and then “natural compliance.”
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That is the Evonik starting Formulation. We did make some changes to it, but I can’t really go very far into that topic due to NDA’s.
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This is the designed Emulsification system. It calculates the total emulsifier as 5% but this I will often tweak. Please don’t be impressed by all the decimal points, as the math presumes a level of accuracy not seen in real life.I have the quoted HLB of Glyceryl Oleate as “3-4” per the Dermofeel PO datasheet.One error that was made was to break-up the PEG-100 Stearate and the Glyceryl Stearate up and use their individual HLB’s. This combination is an extremely common raw material (Arlacel 165, Simusol 165, Tego 165) and the material combination has an assigned HLB of 11.So, in my case, you would have 5% total emulsifiers, comprised of 1.23% Glyceryl Oleate and 3.77% Arlacel 165.Lastly, any emulsification system should be stabilized. In this case, I would add either Carbomer or a natural gum (like Solagum AX) in the external (Aqueous) phase.My only concern is that if you infer a general direction of the original posted Formula, it looks like they are positioning themselves for a “natural” market. Most would have a problem with the Peg-100 Stearate and any carbomer.
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This is another option. It is an ECOCERT/COSMOS product. Now, no offense to anyone, please, but keep in mind that many of these newer “natural” preservatives are VERY sensitive to sanitary conditions during manufacturing. These conditions are difficult to achieve for some lines in their facilities. -
@ngarayeva001 Actually, the values that we both arrived at are so close that they would be treated as identical for all intents and purposes when designing the emulsification system. Again, it is a fallacy to believe that the system is that precise.Also, we need to keep in mind that the HLB system works primarily with non-ionic surfactants. Many of these emulsifiers will not be allowable under any defined “natural standard” as they are ethoxylated. As you perform more Formulations under a natural standard, you will see HLB become increasingly irrelevant. You will more often see a ratio of emulsifier to oil used in these cases. In any case, the distributors provide great guidance.In the end, your best emulsification system will always be determined during the lab work. HLB gives a utopia result. Lab work gives us the actual best result.As for a preservative, I agree with @MarkBroussard about the Lincoln Fine Ingredients preservatives being an option. Keep in mind that regardless of how you go, you will want to use a hurdle technique to optimize your preservative system. You will want to do challenge testing of the final Formula. Lastly, any reputable manufacturer will be testing as part of a QA/QC Program.
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Your Tocopherol is far too high if you are at 1% net Tocopherol.Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier and as you can see actually has a required HLB of 12 (Calculations are based on http://pharmacy.creighton.edu/pha313/book/R-Chapter09.pdf)Your required HLB is 9.16My calculations are exact, but in the big picture, it is misleading. The HLB system is a guide to help design the emulsification system and does not always act as predictably as the math. It is a starting point.Here is a good guide for HLB; https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuqL_fQzYhiWTl0aDdvcXZtdHM/view?usp=sharing
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Actually, there is an old Formulation that we used a great deal to create a non-aeresol foam product that uses a Betaine derivative (Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine, TEGO Betaine 810). We used the basic concepts of this formulation to create an OTC Foam Leave-on product that passed RIPT and HET-CAM with great results
