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Kokum butter vs. mango butter vs. Shea butter vs. cocoa butter
hello everyone
if you have experiences on kokum, mango, Shea, cocoa butter, please give me the advices to use these butter on facial cream / lotion formulation.
Thanks in advance -
29 Replies
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Shea is good for face. Comedogenic rating is 2 (low enough). Doesn’t cause allergies. Pretty stable. Together with jojoba oil it’s one of the most used in expensive commercial products. I recommend refined, because unrefined smells.
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Mango is similar to shea, but lighter. It’s very popular within DIY community but I have not really seen it in many commercial products. The idea is, if shea it too heavy, use mango.
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Cocoa is great for body products. Get some high quality unrefined and you can make body lotions that smell like dark chocolate. Add a drop of orange essential oil (orange is phototoxic but I think it’s ok at a very low concentration if you don’t use it on face) and the smell will be fantastic. I saw cocoa butter in commercial face products too at a low concentration. I don’t remember it’s comedogenic rating but should not be more than 3.
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Thanks for that, I’ll have to try cocoa butter.
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Thanks ngarayeva001 & Belassi
I just made Cocoa for hands & Feet lotion. Its smell is good. But it has soaping effect. I heated it to 125F, and puth dimethicone fluid that I bought from Making Cosmetics. The soaping effect was not existing anymore.I found the interest subject on the internet. It is called Grease-fall. More details, click on this https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/03/05/formulating-a-lotion-choosing-the-fats-theory-pt-5/
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@Belassi just remember to get an unrefined one. The refined has no odor. I think it’s the only butter that is better in an unrefined form. I am not a big fan of organic stuff in general, but for some reason (maybe organic tends to be higher quality) organic has stronger (better) smell.
@Dtdang thank you so much for the article!
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@Dtdang, you mentioned Dimethicone fluid from makingcosmetics, I want to share what I recently found. They have a watersoluble dimethicone. It’s called PEG-8 Dimethicone. It’s intended for serums and surfactant products, but I added it to a lotion and the texture was amazing. I had 1.5% of Dimethicone fluid and 1.5% of PEG-8 Dimethincone in that formula (plus a blend of vegetable oils). I also tried it with surfactants and serums (it should be low concentration for serums, as per my experience) and it worked well. Great product with many applications. Consider trying it. Also, Dimethicone Satin is not much different from their Dimethicone 500, but Satin is much more expensive. Is not worth it. I guess I tried all silicones on makingcosmetics :smiley:
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@ngarayeva001 thanks for sharing valuable and practical formulation. I love it.
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I also found that grease-fall concept works well at least on two experiments that I made last week.
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I was not aware of this concept, but now it makes perfect sense for me why the most of commercial products have a combination of shea butter and jojoba oil.
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@ngarayeva001, It also has the articles about choosing fats and acne.
It is wonderful article. click on https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/03/09/fatty_acids/ for more details.
The main website has steps by steps for cream formulation. Click on https://itsallinmyhands.com/formulating-cosmetics-theory/I have learned a lot of formulation on this website.
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@ngarayeva001, thanks for carrier oils 101 article. It make sense. Appreciate.
Saving TIMES & Money for sharing the knowledge. -
Shea butter darkens most people of color, I once added alpha arbutin on a double boiler and kept for use and I got a contact dermatitis
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@Majman thanks
what is dermatitis? -
Dermatitis. But we can fix it!
A good scrub is what’s needed here.
One based on wire wool.
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@Belassi
i do not get what you mean
i am very new in this area. Still learning. Dermatitis is caused by allergy? -
Dermatitis has many causes but contact dermatitis is caused by contact with a substance that causes an adverse skin reaction. For instance, a solvent could cause contact dermatitis because it would defat the skin.
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@Belassi
i do not understand that Shea Butter can caused dermatitis
it is very common ingredient. Can you explain? -
@Dtdang Dermatitis is simply a general term that describes irritation/inflammation of the skin. There are several types of dermatitis.When a product irritates the skin, generally due to some chemical property, we have contact dermatitis. It is a prostaglandin mediated reaction. In mild cases, discontinuing the product and using a topical corticosteroid will usually alleviate the symptoms.When the body exhibits a TRUE allergic dermatitis, this is an immune response utilizing immunomodulators (very simple, Immunology was 4 credit hours so more than this forum is meant to dwell into). Discontinuing the product and possibly using an antihistamine will handle the least complicated presentations.There are numerous other types of dermatitis nummular, atopic (eczema for example) atopic and several others I can’t recall right off.Shea is a common irritant in many. I would encourage you to read up on it, especially the cross incidence of allergy between Shea and Latex.How common an ingredient has no bearing on the properties of the products.For example, “I do not understand how cigarettes cause cancer. They are very common.” -
@Microformulation thanks a lot. I understand now.
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Well apparently, Shea butter doesn’t agree to be mixed with anything and kept for use… It is usually called a “diva ” ingredient , it doesn’t want to be mixed with anything, so when I double boiled with alpha arbutin and used to double cleanse my face ,I noticed a reaction on my neck and collarbone
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@Majman
I saw Shea Butter and jojoba oil are used on a lot of brand name facial cream.
so, you are allergic with it?
Or during boiling, the reaction took place. It came up with hidden poison. What temperature you heated it up to? I really want to understand it. So we prevent it.
Thanks for sharing -
@Majman
you may try using natural ingredients: bearberry extract that has alpha arbutin.
it is used for brightening skin. It is quite expensive
you may develop the base cream/lotion. Then, you can at active ingredient to it. -
I agree with @Dtdang shea is very often mixed with jojoba and other oils. Are we talking about refined or non refined shea butter here?
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Unrefined, we have it in abundance here, it has a smell but tolerable
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