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Please Critique Sensitive Skin Ingredients
Hello formulators, here are the ingredients for a private label soap formula (I do not have % unfortunately). Is it fair to market the formula as a sensitive skin/OK for personal hygiene type of soap? I really appreciate your thoughts.
Purified Water, Potassium Oleate (from Organic Sunflower Oil), Potassium Cocoate (from Organic Coconut Oil), Organic Vegetable Glycerin, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Potassium Citrate, Citric Acid. -
38 Replies
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I am not an expert in soaps, but citrus essential oils and “sensitive” don’t go together.
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Due to the higher pH of a saponified product, I would avoid them in sensitive products or personal hygiene.What is the pH of the sample? -
I do hope that you are not thinking of using citric acid to lower the pH of such a product, because you will be sorely disappointed.
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Okay, just found our pH is 7. Too high, right?
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Sensitive skin is actually really hare to predict. By definition it’s an exaggerated reaction to certain chemicals, however which chemicals may vary. The reaction typically manifests as an irritant contact dermatitis.
In addition there is the trouble of what does your consumer understand as being for sensitive skin? a lot of consumers think allergic and sensitive skin products are formulated the same way - which is not correct.
Do product testing to find out if the sensitive skin claim is suitable. To find a population of people with sensitive skin you can use a questionnaire such as the one presented in here https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content_files/download.php?doi=10.2340/00015555-1870 or lactic acid sting testing. (10% lactic acid smeared on the altar grove of one side and water on the other side. People with sensitive skin tend to have a much faster and stronger reaction to the lactic acid application).
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Thanks @Sibech I guess I just want to make sure that the formulation won’t be too harsh for personal hygiene and does not include ingredients that are on the radar for being potential allergens for most people (albeit I understand almost all besides water could be for some % of the population). As I mentioned, I’m looking for a private label formula, so I’ll have little flexibility there, unfortunately, but the answers of folks here definitely help to guide the selection process.
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@AVisotsky you mentorens it yourself here, you are looking out for potential allergens, which are not the same as sensitive skin.
@Microformulation has a point in the high pH stripping all oil from the skin leaving it slightly more vulnerable to irritants and allergens.
@ngarayeva001 also has a point in essential oils as allergens.
As much as it is unnatural you would likely be better of with a syndet bar with a lower pH and a perfume formulated without known skin sensitizers.
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all good points, I’ll consider another formula. Many thanks to everybody who responded
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My previous post display why I rarely post from my phone, damn autocorrect.
You mention** -
@Sibech my next question was going to be the INCI name for mentorens???
Happens with all of us all the time, surely most could relate what it meant. -
I’m not very familiar with formulating cleansers, but from what I’ve heard Potassium Oleate and Potassium Cocoate are somewhat harsh surfactants due to the smaller hydrophilic head group and chain length. Any truth to this?
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To be honest, I had to google “mentorens” and unless you are Danish, it doesn’t make much sense
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@Chemist77 & @AVisotsky It would translate to “The mentor’s”. The more you know I suppose?
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cosmetic industry is using a lot the terminology “sensitive skin”, but i guess that “reactive skin” would be more correct.
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@AVisotsky about ph 7 it is good and for hair evry product have ph between 4,5 and 7 it is fine , for surfactants used in shampoo they are for sure from vegetebale oils so they are better then sulfate surfactants if we take the health side.
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Thanks so much, guys, for your “mentorens” opinion
What about this formula? I believe they use a super mild surfactant?- Water, Decyl Glucoside (corn germ oil / plant starch)
- Lauryl Methylglucamide (coconut oil / plant starch)
- Glycerin (vegetable derived)
- Behentrimonium Chloride (canola seed oil)
- Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride (vegetable derived)
- PEG-150 Distearate (plant derived)
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What data are you using to qualify Decyl Glucoside as a “super mild surfactant?”
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Decyl glucoside >
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Also, I see some greenwashing and misapplied sources;
- While the oils you list as sources are used, they are really in the early stages of the synthesis as feedstock and the tie-in is tenuous if you are looking to be transparent.
- As discussed Decyl Glucoside is not a mild surfactant. “I believe” is not the way to go. “My credible and vetted research shows…” is a better avenue to explore.
- You have two (2) PEG’s (implying their strong plant-based source.” However, they are not “minimally processed” as they use ethoxylation and would not be allowed under any natural standard.
I would go back to the drawing board and look at amphoteric surfactants. I would also ask where I wanted to be positioned in the market. You are implying “natural” but then using arguably more effective “synthetic” ingredients. This approach if positioning you for greenwashing while simultaneously allowing you to use more mainstream ingredients. It is an area to consider clearing up your message. “Natural” is not always best and in this case, I would feel that surfactant selection as it relates to a “No Tears” Formula may over-ride the need to be rigidly “natural.” -
Guys, @Microformulation and @Belassi you are amazingly helpful, thank you so much!!!! I want to clarify (I explained at the top): I’m picking from available private label options. Unfortunately, I don’t know much about each ingredient myself and the terms that I use to describe the formula come straight from the companies that have developed it. And I’m very grateful for you shining the light on the issues with the formulations. I’m still in the process of looking for a good private label very mild wash formula but as you can see so far I have been a victim of my inexperience and their marketing
Thanks so much for your critique. -
How about this one? Besides limonene looks pretty neutral?
pH is 5-5.5.Aqua, coco-glucoside, sodium coco-sulfate, glyceryl oleate, glycerin, chamomile+calendula+aloe+Centaurea extracts, anthemis nobilis oil, limonene, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, sodium chloride. -
@AVisotsky sodium coco-SULFATE. Effectives yes, “mild” not so sure. Sulfates are great detergents but they are not very mild. I haven’t worked with this one, but don’t think it is an exeption. As microformulation pointed out have a look at amphoteric surfactants (Cocamidopropyl betaine). Coco-Glucoside together with Cocamidopropyl Betaine is used a lot in baby products and face products.
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Got ya, will keep this in mind. Thank you @ngarayeva001 !
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Actually, @ngarayeva001 you are making a novice mistake in lumping the Sodium Coco-Sulfate in with the sulfates;
- Sulfate, in this case, refers to the presence of the SO4- group in the molecule. This is an extremely common group. This is the Scientific Definition under the IUPAC naming system. It is not a group of materials.
- When we refer to “sulfates” in Cosmetics, pragmatically these are SLS, SLES, ALS, and ALES for the most part. It becomes a “marketing” designation.
- “Sulfates” (SLS, SLES, ALS, and ALES) are not the “harsh” surfactants that they are said to be. In a balanced surfactant system, the irritation is minimal. True, SLS is used in Dermatology for patch testing, but honestly, most surfactants would serve this purpose.
If any compound gave me pause it might be the Coco-Glucoside, but again, with a properly designed surfactant system this is minimized.However, if I were going for a tear-free product, ONCE AGAIN, I would look at the Amphoteric surfactants and sample Formulations. -
Thank you )
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