Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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With current Supply Chain issues and Raw Material price increases and shortages, I think you will have an uphill battle ever making this product affordably. For example, you used 4 silicones. Silicones are in short supply and the prices have jumped. I spent several hours last week looking for silicones and the client was buying Commercial quantities. -
In 1931, Bruno Bloch was the first to point out,
after examining some 4000 girls and boys in Zurich, Switzerland, that
acne, particularly in the form of comedones, was so frequent in young
persons that it could be regarded as a physiological manifestation of
puberty. Acne has plagued mankind since antiquity.Acne and Rosacea (https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-642-59715-2)Acne is hardly a new affliction.I have several Pharmaceutical Compounding books from the 1930s and on I have accumulated. Sulfur for acne is listed in these compendiums. -
It sometimes helps early on to define and codify their “natural” standards. Nearly every new client in this Marketspace leads with it has to be “natural.” We explain in the initial call that “natural” is a useless term. We generally use plant-based {mineral for SPF, colorants, etc.} materials minimally processed and reference the COSMOS allowable processes.While hardly perfect, this better approach makes the R&D process much quicker, It also avoids the inevitable emails where they will try to analyze each and every ingredient, without any Chemistry knowledge and with EWG as their guide.
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Why make your own Keratin? There are many different standardized sources of raw material and unless it is your primary role to create Raw materials (a very specialized task requiring regulatory and analytical Chemistry knowledge), it will cost you more in time and money to create an inferior raw material.
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At that range of Allantoin, you are even above and beyond what is used for OTC under the Skin Protectant OTC Monograph. (That is it would be an OTC DRUG). https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2003/06/04/03-13751/skin-protectant-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use-final-monograph
As anyone can attest, Allantoin at the allowable Cosmetic levels (0.5% or less) can still be difficult to solubilize without the proper mixing equipment. To incorporate it at the OTC level usually requires solvents which would make your product far less “natural.” Of course, “natural” has much less emphasis in Pharma/OTC.More is not always better as in this case. -
…but I am wondering if this is really enough for the product to be self preserving.
You don’t wonder, you prove it from testing, usually through an outside lab. If anyone ever asks, “is this preservative strong enough or effective enough” the answer is always to look at the test results. They should be tested objectively, ESPECIALLY here where they are using low Aw to assist in preservation.
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Give me your Ingredient declaration and a sample of your product. I will reproduce it closely or improve upon it. It isn’t anything special on my part, but a skill you need in Formulating. HOWEVER, I can’t duplicate your marketing. That is where you will stand apart.We routinely have our clients get NDA’s from the manufacturers. While it is almost impossible to enforce, it is a great litmus test of the company. We also have our clients proactively discuss and get in the contract absolute ownership of the Formulation.
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In the past, I worked on a product that used a similar base to this which used 4% NaCl. It wasn’t just used based upon the distributers guidelines, but they did an old-fashioned salt curve. As far as I know, the product had great reviews and nobody mentioned any issues. The only negative we had to overcome was the misinformation regarding salt and “drying of the hair.” That came from marketing, not empirical testing.
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We will buy 190 proof everclear which for all intents and purposes is equivalent to nondenatured alcohol. It is cheaper than paying for an ATF permit at the low levels we use.
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I don’t think you will have difficulty finding manufacturers who can produce a “cream or oil(s)” that is used for Male Shaving. They are pretty straightforward. The real challenge is in marketing. Simply it is less a matter of technical prowess, but more so Product Definition.
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You are asking for “hands on consulting?” While it is possible, I think the majority of Commercial labs would not bring a third party into their work center.
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Gay Timmons at Oh Oh Organics. West Coast, good quality oils in Cosmetic and Organic grade. https://ohohorganic.com/
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Optiphen is likely to have little effect on the skin feel of a finished Cosmetic product.
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There are numerous Cosmetic Science texts available for free (if you look correctly) that have whole chapters on Hair Conditioning Products. In my opinion, it is far too broad of a topic to learn through a blog. Also, as you study the text you will get a better OVERALL understanding. Read, study, experiment at the bench.
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Wow, did I warp back to 2005?Back then there were GSE extracts that were “certified” to be pure and “free” from the adulterants. Lines would demand to use this form and the PET tests all failed.In the almost 2 decades since then, the Raw Material providers have stepped up and provided so many better alternatives which are more effective.
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We try to tie them down to a definition and also to educate them on the fact that “natural” has no legal definition. We use the term “plant-based {minerals if needed} minimally processed. It isn’t quite perfect, but at least it gives you a metric to select ingredients. Otherwise. you may spend most of your per-R&D (Product Development) defending each and every ingredient. You are essentially trying to hit a moving target otherwise.Natural is also incomplete as a marketing term. It doesn’t deal with sustainability, value, or performance. It is also ubiquitous in the markets they will likely start out in and as such, it is in no way a differentiating quality. It is almost an expectation. Hence a monolithic “natural” marketing story is a missed opportunity in today’s market.“…While it may at first glance appear to be a popular trend to avoid
key ingredients in cosmetic products, do you understand the true impact
that avoiding certain materials can have on your cosmetic formulations?
For example, there is no scientific reason to avoid using sulfates,
PEGs, parabens or propylene glycol, or even synthetic ingredients based
on safety because all cosmetic ingredients, when used within regulatory
limits, are safe when formulated properly and within those limits. Yet
it has become a popular catchphrase and marketing terminology to avoid
some of these materials because of fear campaigns designed to scare
consumers into using – or avoiding – certain ingredients over others.
But when you avoid sulfates in cleansing products, for example, you can
dramatically reduce the performance, foam, and cleansing power of the
finished product while increasing the cost. When avoiding PEGs, you can
miss out on some very important sensory and stability benefits. When
using ‘all-natural’ ingredients, you can miss out on some crucial
performance benefits – sometimes to the point where your consumer just
won’t want to repeat purchase your products or question its value in the
first place!” -
Not to be negative, but get used to it. We are seeing raw materials go up a great deal since the supply issues and they will likely continue. One Formulator has seen 3-4 times increases in some materials.
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In a lab setting, we would simply measure the specific gravity of the final product and adjust accordingly.
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50C may be high. We test at 40C, 65% RH (most products).
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No Tear Shampoos do not gain their function through pH. It is a function of the surfactants used. Here is a previous discussion; https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/2425/tear-free-shampoo-materials
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You may want to search in the group. The question has been answered in detail and I also believe that @Perry did a blog post as well.
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If your retinol is only in oil (anhydrous), you wouldn’t get an accurate pH.
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Perry said:@grapefruit22 - any individual’s experience is not necessarily generally applicable to everyone. There is nothing about sulfate formulas that makes them necessarily drying for everyone’s skin.
I agree. Sulfates can be properly formulated to be as mild as just about any other surfactant system. I guess it depends upon the Formulator’s experience.