MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Damn! That Chatbot is good!
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Clean Beauty is a marketing term that retailers and brands use to indicate that their products do not contain any ingredients that are on a prohibited list. The list containing the ingredients that are prohibited are defined by each individual retailer and/or brand. The various “Clean” lists of prohibited ingredients are fairly uniform across retailers, but each retailer has its own list.
“Clean” has no legal meaning. It is essentially “Free-From” marketing with a more postive name. Although Clean and Free-From claims are used together in the virtually all cases where a retailer (more-so than a brand) has defined its version of Clean.
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Slugging … now that’s nasty.
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Why bother with hearings and actually reading the legislation when you can just stuff it into an essential large funding bill that always gets passed at the very last minute. Saves every Congressman and Senator time and they get to be home for Christmas.
As it regards small Etsy/Amazon sellers, I suspect the enforcement mechanism on the Safety Substantiation will fall on Etsy and Amazon. Sellers will have to provide this info to Etsy and Amazon to get their product listed. None of this is going to go into effect for another 3 years or so under any circumstances.
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Because Lactic Acid is part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor, provides more gentle exfoliation than Glycolic, Lactic Acid also increases skin moisturization, and stimulates ceramide and collagen production. It’s a multifunctional molecule.
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The Etsy sellers are not exempt from the Safety Substantiation requirement. The problem the way I see it is that the definition: “tests or studies, research, analyses, or other evidence or information that is considered, among experts qualified by scientific training and experience to evaluate the safety of cosmetic products and their ingredients, sufficient to support a reasonable certainty that a cosmetic product is safe” could be anything from an HRIPT to a dossier of CIR Final Safety Reports of each ingredient in the product.
But, @PhilGeis hit the nail on the head … Etsy sellers will only get attention from the FDA when complaints are filed regarding their products, which is pretty much the way it works at present.
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It would have made more sense to just require a Safety Assessment ingredient review by a qualified Safety Assessor as is done in the EU. But, I guess that would have just made it all too clear as to what exactly was required.
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It would appear that the patent on Capryoloyl Salicylic Acid expired in 2017.
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There is a product from Croda called Norgel that I have used in the past. It is Glycerin/Water/Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer and is essentially a Glycerin gel. So, look for Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer as your gelling agent for Glycerin.
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@toketsu:
The Vitamin C Serum that I DIY for my own personal use is L-Ascorbic Acid … it’s my take on Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. I do have THD Ascorbate blended with Retinol in my skin barrier repair serum.
If you are curious what ingredients I use in DIY products for my own personal use: L-Ascorbic Acid, THD Ascorbate, Retinol, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, GHK-Cu, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Ceramides … I generally blend up a Serum or a Face Oil. The only cream I make is a moisturizer.
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Many thanks, Phil! That will be an interesting webinar
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Yes, the Lactic Acid is loaded at 8%, pH 3.5
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@Abdulla:
I do indeed make my own AHA Serum and use it in rotation with a Retinol Barrier Repair product that I make. In terms of products that I use … Vitamin C Serum, Retinol Barrier Repair, Lactic Acid Serum, Moisturizer … I make all of these DIY. Nice, simple routine.
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I don’t see any point in DIYing a product that you can go purchase at the supermarket for under $10.00 like Dove Sensitive Skin Body Wash. But, rather than drop $125 for an ounce of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum … that I definitely DIY.
I think that probably the most surprising revelation in this thread is going to be just how few cosmetic products professional cosmetic chemists actually use in their personal lives. I probably use 8 maximum.
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chemicalmatt said:@Pharma, thanks for your insights. This helps me understand why the material never found mass appeal. Perhaps galactoarabinan works best when used in synergy with another polymer like so many do? I’ll check it out.
I usually pair it up with Hyaluronic Acid in AHA serums.
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The most likely to be oil-soluble would be the Chamomile Flower Extract, so perhaps PS 20 is being used to solubilize it. Everything else would appear to be water-soluble. Perhaps they are also using PS20 as a pentration enhancer.
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@Toketsu:
Yes, I make and use my own Vitamin C Serum and Skin Barrier Repair Serum with Retinol. No point in paying $100+ per ounce for a commercial product when I can make my own for a fraction of that cost and I completely control what ingredients are included.
Some other products are just easier to purchase, particularly those that are personal care, but not skin care products, like Body Wash, Shampoo, Deodorant, etc.
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Don’t forget the male market …. perhaps those products for men’s bald heads are multi-purpose
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As I said before, there is nothing innovative about Kopari’s products … they are rather average in my opinion. They are just effective marketers with “good-enough” products at attractive price points. You don’t have to be innovative to be successful.
It all depends on how you define innovative or an innovation and don’t confuse innovative with creative. Rhianna’s products are not innovative per se, she just offered good products in a variety of shades that were not available on the market … she saw a gap in what consumers wanted and what products were available. That is not an innovation, it’s simply filling a unmet market demand.
In my lexicon, innovation in personal care products is some new ingredient or combination of ingredients that deliver a result that is better than other available ingredients/products. Or, a new product format … Liquid To Matte Lipsticks was a clever innovation.
You have an excellent example in OGX Beauty and it’s very successful line of Oil of Morocco hair care products. You have some native ingredients to Morocco … Argan Oil, Blue Tansy that you could incorporate into an oil cleanser.
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If you take a look at the chemical structure of D-Panthenol you will see that it resembles a sodium hyaluronate monomer in terms of functional moities. I would presume that D-Panthenol is able to form hydrogen bonds with sodium hyaluronate and displaces the hydrogen bonds between individual hyaluronic acid chains that accounts for its viscosity.
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It’s pretty straightfoward: Innovation in cosmetics can come from new, novel ingredients that have a demonstrated effect, unique combinations of ingredients that have a demonstrated effect or technology to enhance the absorption/performance of existing ingredients. All require extensive research & development to achieve and are well beyond the resources of a typical cosmetic brand. Some of these innovations come from academia, some from companies, some from researchers tinkering, but if you are not a scientist working in the lab, well, your chances of coming up with something innovative are virtually non-existent.
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Someone will introduce a line of cosmetic products specifically for use on gentials
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Yes, I use it in multiple products, especially AHA Serums … helps enhance TEWL and lowers the irritation potential of AHA’s. It is not useful as a rheology modifier … does not enhance viscosity even at 2% to 3%.
