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As a professional chemist, what skincare products you DIY for personal usage?
In one of the latest’s Beauty Brains episode I heard that Valery is making a salicylic peeling for herself.
By being a chemist you have an access to many ingredients not available to an ordinary DIY person. Also, you have access to advanced equipment and the most important - you have knowledge.So I wonder if you make some skincare products for personal usage instead of buying it and why:
- because it is cost effective?
- because the product you make and use can’t meet commercial requirements (e.g. spoils quickly)?
- because it is regulated (like salicylic acid not more than 2%)?
- or the formula you like just not available to purchase? -
43 Replies
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@Toketsu:
Yes, I make and use my own Vitamin C Serum and Skin Barrier Repair Serum with Retinol. No point in paying $100+ per ounce for a commercial product when I can make my own for a fraction of that cost and I completely control what ingredients are included.
Some other products are just easier to purchase, particularly those that are personal care, but not skin care products, like Body Wash, Shampoo, Deodorant, etc.
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As I might have said on the show, it rarely occurs to me to use any skin products. I use shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste and deodorant. That’s about it. It’s much easier to buy these things than make them myself even though I know how.
while I might be a good cosmetic chemist, I’m a terrible beauty consumer. 😉
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I’m with Perry. If I didn’t informally try my products in development, it would be Walgreens for me.
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For me, it’s mostly about fun, getting to know what the single ingredients do, and knowing what’s inside and how much is inside. Also, I like those theoretically/sientifically cool/nerdy formulations with aren’t commercially available (which they aren’t for more than one good reason LoL).The common hygiene stuff, shampoo and cheap body lotion, I buy. DIY is usually more expensive than that. Facturing in all the stuff on my shelves which I might use just once out of curiosity, I’m certainly not safing any money by making my own products even if a product itself might be less expensive than a comparative store bought one. -
@Pharma - I think that is one of the big secrets “they” don’t want you to know about DIY products. They’ll cost more to make and probably won’t work as well either. I’m all for encouraging people to learn how to make their own products, but it should not be looked at a way to get your products for less money.
In this way, making cosmetics is not like making food.
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I don’t see any point in DIYing a product that you can go purchase at the supermarket for under $10.00 like Dove Sensitive Skin Body Wash. But, rather than drop $125 for an ounce of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum … that I definitely DIY.
I think that probably the most surprising revelation in this thread is going to be just how few cosmetic products professional cosmetic chemists actually use in their personal lives. I probably use 8 maximum.
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I feel like once you’ve seen “behind the curtain” we don’t use that much. I’ll make stuff to try a new material and use it once and then move on. I’m not that consistent.
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Interesting. So @Perry you dont use any cleansers for face or body? Or Moisturizer, Sunscreens?
I personally love making my own skincare products and especially recreating or duping the expensive face products that I make for 10 % of the cost of OTC products. I also make a sore muscle balm and cream that is better than any I have tried OTC and for a fraction of the price of some that have similar ingredients to mine. My skin has never been as good as it is now so there must be something good about the products I am making.
I also don’t bother to make Shampoos or any hair products as I have mine colored at my hairdresser (would never use the Supermarket hair coloring versions). I also make body lotions and Oils etc and I make these because I can’t buy the same quality products with the scents I love OTC and I have fun making them. I Usually package and reuse my glass bottles/jars (cleaned and sterilzed) and use new pumps/lids etc each time - so that saves on packaging costs. I make my own labels too and have a fun brand name - I pick packaging that I love and looks good on display. I have found that now that I am set up and have initial costs out of the way I am no longer out of pocket (after 2 and 1/2 years) - so yes initially was more expensive to make my own but now it isn’t. I also now know more of what to buy and how much I am going to use - but in the past I bought too much and wasted a lot. Mine is a hobby and being retired is a fun pastime. I also love to cook and find both a joy - with cooking we get to eat yummy food that to be honest is better than a lot of restaurants, and with skincare as a family we get to use great products for fraction of the price). - anyway that’s me
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@Perry @MarkBroussard @Microformulation @Pharma
What surprises me is that why you professional chemists don’t use AHA( lactic or glycolic acid) Products?Specially, why are you not making it by yourself?
This way you know it is very inexpensive and effective. Isn’t it? -
Abdullah said:@Perry @MarkBroussard @Microformulation @Pharma
What surprises me is that why you professional chemists don’t use AHA( lactic or glycolic acid) Products?Specially, why are you not making it by yourself?
This way you know it is very inexpensive and effective. Isn’t it?With a full beard and no real skin issues, it isn’t needed.Rockstargirl said:I feel like once you’ve seen “behind the curtain” we don’t use that much. I’ll make stuff to try a new material and use it once and then move on. I’m not that consistent.Couldn’t agree more.
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@Abdulla:
I do indeed make my own AHA Serum and use it in rotation with a Retinol Barrier Repair product that I make. In terms of products that I use … Vitamin C Serum, Retinol Barrier Repair, Lactic Acid Serum, Moisturizer … I make all of these DIY. Nice, simple routine.
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@Abdullah - I use products to solve problems. An AHA product would not solve any problem that I have. I’m perfectly happy with how my skin looks and feels so don’t feel compelled to do anything more than what I’m doing.
Serums, exfoliation, moisturizing…it all just sounds like a lot of extra work for minimal benefit.
@Squinny - The “cleanser” I use for face and body is…shampoo. Foam it up on my head, use the foam to clean the rest of my body. No more cleansers necessary. I do use conditioners because I like the way it makes my hair look and feel, but it’s not really necessary.
No, I don’t usually use moisturizer, except in the winter and only if my hands feel itchy. But typically there isn’t any readily available so I don’t bother. I do like to take the moisturizers from hotels, so I do moisturize my hands when I travel. But rarely.
Yes, I use sunscreen if I”m going to be at the beach or a lake and in the sun for hours. On occasion, I’ll use sunscreen when I go for a run in the summer. Honestly, it’s just a lot of work to apply and I don’t generally like how it feels. Mostly my strategy for sun protection is to cover up. I wear hats, don’t take off my shirt much, and put a towel over my legs.
As far as the DIY stuff goes, I do agree with you that you can make dupes of really expensive stuff for less money. What I don’t agree with is that those expensive products are better than the Olay, Suave or some other brand you could just buy inexpensively at a drugstore. See, I see no reason anyone should avoid a supermarket shampoo. Beyond the marketing stories and packaging, the salon stuff isn’t really different. I suppose I have too much knowledge about formulation and am also incredibly skeptical about marketing stories.
Like I said, I’m a terrible cosmetic consumer.
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Perry said:I suppose I have too much knowledge about formulation and am also incredibly skeptical about marketing stories.Like I said, I’m a terrible cosmetic consumer.
That’s why you are a chemist and not a marketing guy. Good magician ought to believe in his magic))
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I am neither a professional nor a chemist, just a retired guy…living my dream…. but I started making things for a couple of reasons:
1) First ever project was a natural mosquito repelling lotion. I did this because I could not find a product in that category that worked at my level of expectation. I was able to succeed with two exceptions. The scent was too strong for commercial value….and the ingredient that made it ultimately work….created rampant oxidation, also rendering in commercially unviable.
2) When I started asking my ‘Out of my league’ Korean wife…the cost of some of her face creams…most of which were North of $300…. I said…I can do that for $10…and equal or exceed their performance.
3) I am lucky to currently not be burdened with chronic pain, but many around me are, so since I had the resources of the greatest mind in the field, I made a pain cream for those that I care about. I call pain….’A fickle Bi#ch’, meaning for some people, they will crawl across broken glass for this cream…and for others, it is like many other products that do not work for them. Just depends on their pain source/type. Worst case scenario….works wonders on mosquito bites and fire ant bites.
4) I recently made the first product for myself. I do not have sensitive skin, with one exception….my armpits. I have been unable to use commercial deodorants other than in aerosol versions. As I wanted a deo that worked longer, didn’t stain, and did not irritate, and again had access to several of the most brilliant minds in the field…. I took on that challenge and created an emulsified cream deo. It came out better than I could have ever imagined. I consider it my crowning achievement. A ‘use anywhere’ deo…that last for up to 72 hours for some people (me…I get about 30….
)Aloha.
The woman….does a little drawing.
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@MarkBroussard can i ask what percentage of lactic acid do you use and at what pH?
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Yes, the Lactic Acid is loaded at 8%, pH 3.5
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Are you using liquid lactic acid or powder? I checked that my powder lactic acid contains calcium lactate and silicon dioxide. Not sure if it would cause problem.
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MarkBroussard said:@Abdullah:
Yes, the Lactic Acid is loaded at 8%, pH 3.5
Thanks a lot
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MarkBroussard said:@Abdulla:
I do indeed make my own AHA Serum and use it in rotation with a Retinol Barrier Repair product that I make. In terms of products that I use … Vitamin C Serum, Retinol Barrier Repair, Lactic Acid Serum, Moisturizer … I make all of these DIY. Nice, simple routine.
I wonder if it is some kind of fancy derivative (like THD) or plain ascorbic acid? Waterless formula?
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@toketsu:
The Vitamin C Serum that I DIY for my own personal use is L-Ascorbic Acid … it’s my take on Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. I do have THD Ascorbate blended with Retinol in my skin barrier repair serum.
If you are curious what ingredients I use in DIY products for my own personal use: L-Ascorbic Acid, THD Ascorbate, Retinol, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, GHK-Cu, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Ceramides … I generally blend up a Serum or a Face Oil. The only cream I make is a moisturizer.
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Love to see everyone’s answers
I actually make everything myself (except deo and toothpaste … and sunscreen yet, but looking into it now).
I use my own Vitamin C, other serums (depending on my skin mood and needs - peptides, Allantoin, CoQ10, lactic acid… ), facial masks/peels (acid or just hydration), eye serum with “eye” peptides (testing new ones now), moisturiser … also shampoo, body wash, face wash, conditioner, body scrub, lip balm …
Plus testing gel to cream cleanser and face oil.As I love to play with new ingredients I have sometimes a lot of product to use, so I usually have it in the bathroom and we just use it
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Not a professional but since it’s my hobby it’s easier to list what I don’t make: 1) mascara because it’s messy 2) eyeliner (see mascara) 3) powders because I don’t have a press and don’t want to buy one. 4) sunscreen because it must be left to large corporations with a testing budget. I stopped making shampoos, showergels and deodorants because I don’t have enough time and it’s easier to buy these products.
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@MarkBroussard one more question.
Why do you use or prefer lactic acid over glycolic acid?
I use lactic acid too but just because it is less expensive.
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Because Lactic Acid is part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor, provides more gentle exfoliation than Glycolic, Lactic Acid also increases skin moisturization, and stimulates ceramide and collagen production. It’s a multifunctional molecule.
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hello @MarkBroussard @Pharma @Perry , I have a question. I intend to make AHA BHA toner by mixing SA with GA, but when they are put together the solution I get is not clear but cloudy white. do you have a solution to solve my problem regarding the method of mixing GA with SA? I am grateful if you can respond to my question.
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I’d suggest you start a new discussion with this question
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I use my own deodorant stick formulation, SPF30 sunscreen oil spray, analgesic lotion (for sore muscles) but that’s about it. I buy the basics at the store just like Perry and others. I’ve formulated & compounded high-end ceramide/polypeptide cream for my wife because I had free ingredient samples sitting around just aging away and decided to gift her something special.
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MarkBroussard said:
@Abdullah:Because Lactic Acid is part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor, provides more gentle exfoliation than Glycolic, Lactic Acid also increases skin moisturization, and stimulates ceramide and collagen production. It’s a multifunctional molecule.
That is good
Thanks
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