[MarkBroussard]

Schulke used to have a specific ingredient for use in deodorants, I think it was PA 50. Not sure if that is still available post-acquistion by Ashland.

[MarkBroussard]

You’ll need to add Polyhydroxystearic Acid to get an even distribution of the Zinc Oxide. If you are using ZnO powder, it is much easier if you use a ZnO premix such as those provided by Antaria or Grant Industries.

[MarkBroussard]

@Cdsgames

I would recommend that you used both. To have an effective product, you’ll want to include multiple deodorant actives that attack the issue from various angles.

[MarkBroussard]

@chemicalmatt:

I agree … I think the Safety Substantiation is going to end up being HRIPT as opposed to an EU-Style Safety Assessment.

[MarkBroussard]

@Ghita37

Follow @Paprik advice … it is spot on

[MarkBroussard]

@chemicalooze:

Decyl Glucoside as an “emulsifier” at 11%?  You already have Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sorbitan Stearate and Lecithin in your formula.

Your problem is two-fold:  You have way too much Decyl Glucoside, which really shoul not even be in this formula, but if you are locked-in, drop it to 0.1%.

But, your main problem is that your preservative components generally blow viscosity of emulsions.  For that, there is no solution other than to ditch the preservative.  The only way you’re going to get it to not affect viscosity is to drop it to 0.3% or less and at that level it will be ineffective at preservation.

[MarkBroussard]

@chemicalooze:

As noted, the Decyl Glucoside at 11% does not make any sense in this formula, nor does “Lauryl Alkyl”.  If you need to leave these in the formula, take them both down to 0.1%.  What was the logic of putting high levels of surfactant in an SPF cream?

But, I’ll also note Iron Oxides at 5.2%?

Also, what preservative are you using and what UV filters?  One of the preservative components may be affecting your viscoisty/stability if it contains capryly glycol, for instance.

[MarkBroussard]

This formula is highly likely to separate.  You don’t need both Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol.  Ditch one of these and replace with Glyceryl Stearate SE.

Also, the NaOH makes no sense.  All it will do is raise the pH.

Replace the Glycerin with a refatting agent such as Glyceryl Oleate.

As others have noted, keep the other ingredients at label ingredients levels of max 0.1%.

[MarkBroussard]

@PhilGeis  @Microformulation

Thanks!  Very much appreciate it

[MarkBroussard]

@PhilGeis  @Microformulation

I was not able to attend.  Did they elaborate on exactly what is required for the Safety Assessment?

[MarkBroussard]

@goldenfish:

https://desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com/how-to-read-cosmetic-labels/

[MarkBroussard]

@Lab

Generally, Poly Suga Mulse D9 is the best solubilizer, but as mentioned it all depends on what you are trying to solubilize.  I ususally start off with PSM D9, but if it does not work, move on to other options or combinations of solubilizers

[MarkBroussard]

@Margaret:

Yeah, but the grass fed cows are Vegans … Vegecowllow

[MarkBroussard]

But, if the cows are only fed grass, would it not then be Vegan?  And, what if the cows are Jew-ish like George Santos?

[MarkBroussard]

@gisele:

Tallow is primarily tryglyceride composed of Oleic and Stearic Fatty Acids.  Should not be a problem in cosmetic products.

[MarkBroussard]

@gisele

Not absolutely certain, but I had a couple of Tallow inquiries last week.  Perhaps an emerging trend.

[MarkBroussard]

Sabina said:

ketchito said:

@Sabina Are you reducing pH because you’re using an organic acid as preservative? I believe the system you have works best at a pH closer to 6. 

I am using food grade preservation. Sodium benzoate and potassium hydroxide

Is the potassium hydroxide a typo and you meant potassium sorbate?  Potassium hydroxide is a base, not a preservative.

It would appear from your comments that you do not have a pH meter?

[MarkBroussard]

@squinny:

TECA is a mixture of Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid and Madecassic acid.  I think that may be a better option than just the Madecassoside … or you could use both.  Try starting at 0.1% load.

[MarkBroussard]

@hectic000

No, you don’t have this issue with Kojic Acid or Salicylic Acid or Azelaic Acid.  Those are pure compounds.

[MarkBroussard]

@Graillotion

LOL! … Bakuchi Oil … what a scam.  I suspect that is nothing more that cold pressed Babchi Oil.

[MarkBroussard]

@hectic000

Bakuchiol is a oily plant extract isolate from the Babchi plant, but I don’t think I have ever seen anyone advise if Bakuchiol is a pure extract or if it is a component of the oily extract from Babchi.  It may be similar to CBD, where the actual amount of CBD in an oil extract can range from 50% to 90%.  Since CBD is heavily regulated, the suppliers must document the actual amount of CBD in the extract.  Not so with Bakuchiol.  I suspect when you buy Bakuchiol it is not 100% pure.

[MarkBroussard]

@hectic000

This will help you better understand:

https://desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com/plant-extracts-plant-extract-isolates-the-1-percent-rule/

[MarkBroussard]

If it’s Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract it’s a drop in or label ingredient and won’t do anything.  To have some effectiveness, you’ll need to use TECA that is comprised of the purified functional ingredients derived from Gotu Kola.  

[MarkBroussard]

My pleasure, Perry.  Chemists Corner is an amazing resource and I hope others step up the meet the Challenge.

[MarkBroussard]

PhilGeis said:

@MarkBroussard
LOL  - you are a marketing devil!

LOL … I had the ChatBot rewrite my Signature Line.