MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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There is no such thing as “Clean Beauty” ingredients. Clean Beauty products use the same cosmetic ingredients as “Unclean” cosmetic products. The only difference is that a select group of approximately 50 ingredients are not used in clean beauty products. The safety requirements apply to any and all cosmetic products.
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The Clean Beauty “Dilemma” is a media-created myth. Clean Beauty is simply cosmetic products that do not contain any ingredients on the prohibited lists of retailers Sephora, The Detox Market, Ulta, Target, Credo. They all ban the same 50 or so ingredients and the respective banned lists of ingredients are 95% the exact same ingredients with some minor variations here and there. Credo claims to ban 2,400 or so, but you can only find the standard 50 or so on their website. What’s the point of banning Naptha, Diesel and Jet Fuel from cosmetics just to claim to ban more ingredients than anyone else?
Check out the recent article in Oprah Daily that was written by an author of children’s books who proclaimed Clean Beauty “the cryptocurrency of cosmetics” … Seriously?
As long as you have authors penning articles with no technical background who have no clue what they are talking about, the media will continue to sow confusion about Clean Beauty.
Oh, one point of clarification in the presentation. Clean Beauty products do not have to be Vegan … Beeswax, Honey, Lanolin, Cholesterol, Carmine are allowed under most Clean Beauty standards.
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Before you go too far down this path … Are you aware that what you are describing is regulated at an FDA 510K Medical Device. The testing to get a product like this to market runs around $200,000.
But, yes, the salts of organic acids are generally preferred in these products. You might also consider coupling those with Phenethyl Alcohol
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Why are you trying to raise the pH? If you Micellar Cleanser has a pH below 5.5, better for preservation. There really isn’t any benefit to raising the pH.
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Yes, use deodorized cocoa butter
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In cosmetics, I don’t think it really matters much either way since the objective is for the ingredients to not chemically react. A consumer will not notice the difference between 12.5% or 11.19% SLES in a formula.
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If I recall correctly, the main issue with Phenoxyethanol are non-ionics, but it is also possible that Polysorbate is used as a neutralizer in conducting PET.
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Yes, and NY State just prohibited Mercury in cosmetics. The FDA already has that covered.
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Yes, you would need to put your company on the label. With MoCRA (in the US) you can now put your electronic contact information: Company Name, Website URL, Contact e-mail
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Fragrance oils, I generally do not use. The exception being if a client wants a particular scent, I usually have it reverse engineered by Alpha Aromatics who have the necessary analytic equipment to quite accurately recreate a fragrance.
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Usually nothing. The smell of the ingredients combined is generally not an issue. If it does become an issue, then a hydrosol works on some formulas like Toners. If absolutely necessary, then relatively benign essential oil like lavender.
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Yes, just use more SP to get to the pH you want.
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I have certainly not/never used most of these on the list. There are a couple of interesting ones:
Phytonadione (Vitamin K) used in eye creams, Bay Leaf Oil, Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA Peels) and the Basic Dyes (Semi Permanent Hair Dyes).
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I almost never formulate products using essential oils or fragrances. There is a large market segment with sensitive skin issues that don’t want EO’s or fragrances in their products. Or, they simply don’t want to smell like a cosmetic product.
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Apparently Olaplex was selling stock in Canada that still contained Lilial.
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Hey Ketchito:
I look at it this way … why take the chance for the sake of a non-functional fragrance? There is risk in everything and 50 out of 1.0 million is not a lot, but its still 50 potential lawsuits or one Class Action lawsuit. Olaplex is now facing a Class Action lawsuit over Lilial in Canada and California.
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Well, your client has now documented through HRIPT testing that two of shampoos cause irritation and that the base does not. Yes, it is difficult to create a cosmetic product that someone, somewhere will not react to. But, the problem is that you now know and have documented that two of the fragrances cause irritation. Sounds like your client is setting themselves up for potential problems. I would replace the two fragrances that are causing the irritation.
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Yes, Oxford Biosciences is legit. I have a client that used them for their Safety Assessment Report for the EU. The level of detail they are requesting is customary for EU Safety Assessment Studies and product dossier for product registration
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Liquid Lactic Acid 88%
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Yes, it works just fine.
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Yes, some essential oils can help such as Peppermint and Capsacin. They contribute to the simultaneous cooling and warming effect. This sensation on the skin “tricks” the brain into focusing on the cooling/warming sensation as opposed to the pain.
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Yes, sunscreens are not good formulas for non-professionals to experiment with. In the US, Sunscreens are regulated as OTC products and the total cost to do all of the required testing to get a new sunscreen to market is in the range $75,000 to $100,000. A major component in grading the SPF of a sunscreen is even distribution of the mineral sunscreen active when applied to the skin. As @Microformulation pointed out, this requires some level of sophistication in processing the ingredients.
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Good job, Perry … it’s a nice, clean design and I like the addition of colors on the Forum.
On the Forum, the Topic Boxes that preceed the actual Forum discussions are quite large. You would not necessarily know that the Forum discussion by individual post is down below. I would make those much smaller and color code them to match the color coding of the discussions in the Forum down below. I think all you need here is the heading: General, Formulating, Change My View.
I also preferred designated Professional Chemists as such as opposed to everyone being a Member.
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Not exactly. Deodorized is a finishing step beyond Refined.
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Saponified Oils of this type are also referred to as liquid Castille Soap. The issue is do you want to use a product with such a high pH on your skin and hair. Dr. Bronner’s is the best known brand selling a range of Castille Soap cleansers.