MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Almost certainly this would not pass a PET, but when they say “used alone” it’s hard to put that in context. Does “used alone” mean the emulsion contained only the Dermosoft without chelating agents and other preservative boosters (ie: without a hurdle technology approach) or do they mean it is the only presevative used in the emulsion, but it also includes chelating agents and preservative boosters. The panel of microorganisms tested against in the graphs are the orgaisms used in the USP 51 PCT.
A. Brasiliensis is one of the most difficult organisms to preserve against and you can see that the GMCY had some positive effect, but not substantial enough. Plus, GMCY really blows the viscosity of your emulsion.
FYI: This preservative is quite expensive relative to its analogs Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate and has to be used a high percentage and getting it shipped in from Germany just adds to the problem with using it.
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Use Sodium Stearate … it’s less that joyful to work with, particularly for a highly competitive product category with low margins, but if you have your mind set on it, view it as a learning experience.
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@mikethair answered your question:
We have used Schuelke Mikrocount in our GMP Certified production facility for years. But they need to be used intelligently.PET/Challenge Tests are done in an external, certified lab. Regularly, the Schuelke Mikrocount results are validated with samples being sent to an external certified lab.Over the five years we have used Schuelke Mikrocount they have not let us down. But again, this outside validation of results is an important part of our regime. -
Salicylic Acid will be effective for all forms of acne … SA’s function is to prevent the dead skin cells from plugging the hair follicles and the plugging of hair follicles is common to all forms of acne.
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You can make virtually any cosmetic product using these ingredients. Be they Ferments, Lysates, Chicory Root Extract, Inulin, etc. the whole panoply of ingredients that comprise the space pre, pro, post-biotics are not really any different than working with any other cosmetic ingredient
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Do a test: Purchase some USP Purified Water and some Distilled Water. Take a formula and make one sample in USP Purified Water and one sample in Distilled Water … send each in for a Preservative Challenge Test.
If your preservation system is properly designed, you will not notice a significant difference, if any at all, in the PCT test results between the USP and the Distilled waters.
FYI: USP Purified Water costs 10X Distilled Water.
You cannot make a valid indictment of an entire industry based on a bad experience with just one company. Perhaps this one company simply was not a good operator, but it does not mean that all companies in that industry operate in the same manner.
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That would vary by product, form/function, difficulty in developing the formula, etc. It really comes down to what you think your time and expertise are worth and negotiating same with the client.
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Most Contract Manufacturers, if they develop the formula for a nominal fee, provide the client with a right to use the formula, but the IP is retained by the Contract Manufacturer. In many cases, the client is provided an IP buy-out option if they manufacture a large volume of units.
If you want the client to retain the IP, then charge a higher fee for development of the formula and specifically state who owns the IP in the contract.
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If you ask for the compositional analysis perhaps you can get exact percentages, but typical usage rates are 0.3% Sodium Benzoate + 0.15% Potassium Sorbate, each of which you can add as powders directly to the water phase of your formula … no need to make a separate blend in water unless you want to.
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You might want to do a micro test on your RT PET sample every couple of weeks to see if you are detecting any growth so you can pick up early on in the process if you have a preservation problem.
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If you have any qualms about it, you would be much better off opening your container of distilled water and add some sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate to it and perhaps a chelator before you use it as the base for a formulation. That would be much more effective, and less time consuming, than boiling it.
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The manufacturing of water sold in supermarkets is highly regulated and the water undergoes extensive testing. The likelihood that you will encounter a contaminated container of distilled water on the supermarket shelves is extremely low.
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You should include in your contract that once your work has commenced that you do not provide refunds unless the client can prove that you were negligent in developing the product. State this explicitly in your contract.
That won’t necessarily stop anyone for asking for a refund, but you then have a contractual basis for not providing the refund.
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Generally, no, boiling distilled water is not necessary prior to making a cold process formula. Your preservation system should be robust enough to resolve any issues.
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The range 0.5% to 2.0% is specifically for products regulated as OTC acne products.
If you are looking to market an SA Exfoliation product that is not OTC acne, Paula’s Choice 2% SA Exfoliating Solution is the brand’s top selling product globally. That’s what you would be competing against.
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Nothing special in there that would act as deodorizers except the Silver Citrate and to a lesser extent Tea Tree Oil. Perhaps some components of the Fragrance provide additional boost.
@Graillotion … if it works for you w/o having to use deodorant, good.
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I would be quite skeptical that Silver Citrate in a rinse-off product would be effective enough to eliminate the need for a deodorant.
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Put your Alcohol in a spray bottle. Liberally spray your equipment covering the surface with alcohol. Generally not necessary, but you can also wipe down with an alcohol wipe. If you’re in hurry use a heat gun to speed the evaporation of the alcohol or let them air dry on a lab glassware rack.
You use preservatives for a reason … your equipment should be clean and you should use aseptic technique, but any microbial contamination you inadvertently introduce should be controlled by your preservation system.
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Congrats, Perry! It’s nice to see that your hard work over the decades has been singled out and acknowledged by the SCC.
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I believe it is of the Squal variety of anes
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If you are doing a cold process formulation, just add-in the additional ingredients while your Xanthan is hydrating. It’s all a function of how much Xanthan you are adding and the product format … if it’s a small amount (0.2% or so) then you are good to go.
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Looks like you need a thickener in your formula
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What surfactants are you using and what thickening system are you using?
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The easiest way to integrate Xathan is to pre-hydrate it with Pentylene Glycol or Propanediol and add it to the water phase with stirring. As the glycols coating the Xanthan dissolve into the water it exposes the surface of the Xanthan to the water to begin hydration. These glycols are not as messy to work with as Glycerin.
Note that this is primarily to prevent the formation of fish eyes and really does not significantly affect the hydration of the Xanthan.
How long depends on the product. If you are using the Xanthan to thicken a water-based formula like a Shampoo, let it hydrate for 15 to 30 minutes or so. If it’s going into an emulsion, not as critical, but why not let it hydrate as you are heating your water phase.
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Keep It Simple, Stupid (KISS) should be your guiding principle. Only use the ingredients that you need to accomplish your objective.