MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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If you want a water-soluble antioxidant try Ergothioneine. Other oil soluble antioxidants are Tocotrienols, Asthaxanthin for instance.
Chelating agents bind heavy metals, so they are more boosters of preservation systems.
Tocopheryl Acetate is relatively useless in protecting your formula and it has very low conversion rate (0.6%), so it is also useless regarding skin benefits.
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You’re not going to get any stickiness with HMW HA … in fact, it will feel kind of slippery, just add more in the range 0.5%
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My experience is that HMW HA actually destablizes an emulsion. If you add the HMW HA to the water phase pre-emulsification oftentimes the emulsion will not form and you’ll shread the HA during homogenization. Add HMW HA post-emulsification is feasible, but I would not categorize it as an emulsion stabilizer.
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What preservative are you using … you only list preservative? Depending on the composition, the preservative may be the culprit in the reduction of viscosity.
(1) Add the SA directly to your oil phase. As mentioned by @ngarayeva001 it is oil soluble, so you don’t need the premix you are preparing. Note: why are you using both Sodium Phytate and NaOH … you only need one base to raise the pH. Unless you’re using Sodium Phytate as a chelating agent?
(2) Prepare the emulsion without the addition of the preservative. If the emulsion will not form or breaks, then you know that you need to choose a different emulsifier that works with SA. If the emulsion does form, but thins or breaks when you add the preservative, then you need to choose a different preservative.
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Ethanol that is normally used for inclusion in cosmetic product is SD Alcohol (Specifically Denatured Alcohol) and contains a small amount of a denaturant to make it unsuitable for drinking. It can be as simple as Lavender Oil. There is an industrial alcohol permit that you must acquire to purchase SD Alcohol.
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It seems to me you are making the thickening of your serum a bit more complicated that perhaps it needs to be in using 3 different gelling agents. Your most simple approach would be to try using just HMW Hyaluronic Acid solo to see if that works. In not, then add a bit of Xanthan Gum to supplement.
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Did you balance the Vibrational Harmonics of the Water with the energy frequencies of the crystals? If they are not balanced … not cool.
When you work on these kinds of projects, you should change your name from Warren to Warwen
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If you use the word “Acne” in describing your product, you are automatically under the FDA Acne Monograph and must use one of the 4 approved acne monograph ingredients within the allowed ranges or combinations. There is no wiggle room.
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The title to this thread is “Acne Cream With Salicylic Acid” … so the proposed formulation would be an OTC Drug product.
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The use of any particular ingredient that is on an FDA OTC Monograph list takes into account not only the ingredient itself, but its intended use, so just because an ingredient is on an FDA OTC Monograph does not mean that any product containing that ingredient is automatically an OTC drug product.
Take Dimethicone for example. It is an FDA OTC Skin Protectant Monograph ingredient at 1% to 30%. Dimethicone is also commonly used in cosmetic products to enhance skin sensorials or to reduce soaping of emulsions. If the product is a moisturizer cream, it’s intended use is cosmetic, not as a skin protectant product and it makes no claims as a skin protectant. If it did make skin protectant claims, then it would be an OTC drug product.
Same with Salicylic Acid … it can be used simply as a cosmetic exfoliant. The intended use is exfoliation, not as an OTC ingredient for acne and no acne claims are made. However, a product can be considered both a cosmetic and an OTC drug product. Take Paula’s Choice 2% SA Exfoliating Solution … this product is sold as a cosmetic product and makes no OTC drug claims. You’re straddling a line where the FDA could declare your cosmetic product as also being an OTC, but if you do not make acne claims, then I have not seen any instance where the FDA had declared a cosmetic product with SA as an exoliant to also be an OTC drug product.
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Form the emulsion and upon cool down incorporate a starch (Tapioca Starch works well) with a whisk at high speed.
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The maximum amount of Allantoin you will be able to dissolve in water and not have it recrystallize is 0.5%. The key is to not heat your water phase above 55C. Generally, if you heat it up to 50C with 0.5% Allantoin, it will not recrystallize upon cooling.
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The redness, burning is definitely from the Potassium Sorbate. Some people are also sensitive to Sodium Benzoate.
Nothing you have listed would generally cause skin tightness, but then perhaps you did not list all of the ingredients. As noted … Panthenol at 5% is quite on the high side.
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Hangzhou Rebtech
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Ergothioneine
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If you want to make a straightforward water-based serum these would be the best core ingredients:
Barrier Repair: Ceremide Complex + Niacinamide
Fine Lines/Wrinkles: Argireline + Matrixyl 3000
Moisturization: Natrasmooth + Hyaluronic Acid (Multiple Molecular Weights)
Antioxidant: Ferulic Acid -
@dtdang @Perry
The Vitisphere encapsultion technology is very similar to a multitude of encapsulation technologies … these approaches are derived from drug delivery systems for pharmaceuticals. When using these you should never subject the vessicles to shear forces, but mix in with gentle stirring. There are a variety of techniques to measure the release of Retinol post-application.
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This is basically Retinol as the active ingredient that is encapsulated in a matrix of non-ionic surfactants with a hydrophobic head and hydrophilic tail. The surfactants surround the Retinol drops and form small vessicles that can better penetrate the epidermis aided by the lipids. In short, it’s encapsulated Retinol.
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It all depends on the consumer base you’re trying to attract. Many younger consumers prefer smaller unit sizes so they can test a product without spending a lot money. If they like it, they will purchase a larger unit.
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You will want to use the dyes from Pylam for the US market
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At 3% Glycerin in a water-based formula, this is going to be a very sticky concoction. Perhaps reduce the Glycerin to 0.5% to 1% maximum.
As noted, the Sodium PCA will break the Carbomer gel. To thicken, you can use Xanthan Gum solo, or better yes, a higher molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate.
The Centella and Mulberry extracts … you can drop those down to 1%, but that’s more of a cost issue. If you can afford 3% in your formulas, no issue.
To dissolve the Allantoin … heat the water to 50C - 55C, but no higher. If you heat to higher levels, you may well get recrystallization of the Allantoin.
Overall, it’s a nice, clean formula … good job.
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Yes, but at $700 to $1,100 per kilo with efficacy that may be at best a fraction better than extracts from traditional means, the cost/benefit just isn’t there for a cosmetic product.
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The marketing trick here is that the stem cells are used as biological factories to manufacture the plant extract, but the marketing makes one think that the cosmetic ingredient is actually the plant stem cells.
So, if you buy Gotu Kola Stem Cells … what you are actually getting is Gotu Kola extract that is manufactured using stem cells. Little different than Gotu Kola extract that is manufactured by extraction. The difference is there are fewer impurities in the Gotu Kola extract manufactured using stem cells.
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If it is Grapefruit Seed Extract that is marketed as a preservative, there is a good chance that it is adulterated.
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If you are using Iselux Mild, I would recommend using Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate as a thickener. It will also improve the density of your foam. Much easier to work with than the cellulosic thickeners.