Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Best antioxidant in this situation?

  • Best antioxidant in this situation?

    Posted by MattTheChemist on March 13, 2022 at 3:09 pm

    I am formulating a pretty straightforward solution that contains Ceramide Complex (INCI: Ceramide NP (and) Ceramide AP (and) Ceramide EOP (and) Phytosphingosine (and) Cholesterol (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (and) Carbomer (and) Xanthan Gumin the aqueous/polyol base.

    Since Ceramide Complex is a blend that can be added directly into the water, I don’t have any other lipids or emulsifiers. However, the formula is oxidizing. I already have a chelating agent (EDTA) and a broad-spectrum preservative (Euxyl PE 9010). 

    My question is what type of antioxidant is best in this situation? Is it best to use Tocopherol and a solubilizer? Or can Tocopherol be added to the Ceramide Complex before adding it to the water? I am not heating this so BHT is not an option. 

    Thank you!
    -Matt

    MarkBroussard replied 2 years, 2 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    March 14, 2022 at 1:05 pm

    @MattTheChemist Could you be more specific when talking about aqueous/polyol base? I’m not sure if you managed to make an emulsion or a suspension. If it’s the later, not sure that adding an oil soluble antioxidant might help.

    Also, what sign of oxidation you’re observing?

  • Urbanxt

    Member
    March 15, 2022 at 1:28 am

    Try a mineral such as copper or zinc. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 15, 2022 at 8:44 pm

    As my chemist once told me… determine the phase the oxidation is happening in, and address it accordingly.

    Just throwing one against the wall: N-acetylcysteine (NAC)

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 3:33 am

    …Meaning….if it is a water-soluble problem, throwing oil soluble solutions at it won’t be prudent, and visa versa.

    …And if you have no idea…then toss one water soluble, and one oil soluble solution at it….or do a knock-out with different anti-ox’s…and it will help you find the culprit.

  • MattTheChemist

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 2:51 pm

    @ketchito @Graillotion  sorry for the delayed response! (on vacation). I don’t have images of my retains until I get back, to show the darkening. 

    This is a product for a device manufacturer client, where the solution is being applied to the skin through a machine that uses pressure/suction. They just wanted to improve upon their existing formulas. Think “hydro dermabrasion”

    It’s a pretty simple formula of about 50% polyol (glycerin/dipropylene glycol), 5% NaLactate, 5% of the Ceramide complex dispersion, and a beta-glucan dispersion. The rest is H2O, EDTA, and the Euxyl PE 9010. 

    My assumption is that the slight darkening is from the lipids in the Ceramide complex, hence me thinking oil-soluble AOX is needed. I will definitely experiment with the NAC (I have on hand) and the Toco. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 3:21 pm

    @MattTheChemist

    Ergothioneine

  • MattTheChemist

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 4:38 pm

    Thank you! @MarkBroussard

  • MattTheChemist

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 5:20 pm

    @MarkBroussard do you happen to have a preferred vendor for it?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    March 16, 2022 at 6:26 pm

    @MattTheChemist

    Hangzhou Rebtech

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