[manstra]

First of all thank you all

After that long period I manage to develop the shampoo by using both glycol stearate, glycol distearate, dimethicone and dropped out P10 and P7. I found the optimal quantity to be both 2,25% in a formulation consisting of 12% active sles, 6% cocobetaine, 6% Peg-4 Rapeseedamide, 3% PEG -6 Caprylic Capric Glycerides with a very nice thickening effect as well.

Kind regards for your fruitful feedback

[manstra]

If you need to use vegetable oil for marketing reasons you have to add PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil or tween - 20 (approximate percentage 0.8%) to make a clear emulsion with the oil and do not use more than 0.15% of the oil. Since you don’t use thickeners or reology modifiers increase the amide percentage to around 4-5% if the sultaine/sulfate mix is at around 15-18%.

I wouldn’t use vegetable oil at all. Instead if you need emolliency use PEG-7 or PEG-6 which are readily soluble and light.

[manstra]

around 4000Euro

Semiautomatic with PLC panel for automatic volume selection

[manstra]

I always dillute P10 to betaine and add it later on in the process.

[manstra]

Due to the high amount of SLS and SLES ( around 5 times more than your CAPB), CAPB cannot reduce successfully the irritancy even if you use PEG 7 as a reffating emollient. If you want the results of your original formula with lower irritancy potential, I would reduce SLS and SLES to 18% total and add Disodium Cocamphodiacetate at 5% extra on the ingredient list. Also swap DEA with Glyceryl Caprilate/Caprate or Amidet - N.

[manstra]

Nice one Perry

[manstra]

I would go for Amidet - N from KAO

[manstra]

From my personal experience I used this following system that delivered the necessary results

I will not give exact percentages as this will change according to HLB and the kind of oils you use

- Tween 20

- Peg -40 Castor oil Hydrogenated

- Glycol Distearate

Watery emulsions tend to seperate sometimes when temperatures are elevated (above 40 Celcius) or during the cooldown phase. If destabilization happens, remix at room temperature (around 25C)

[manstra]

Is there any pH shift in your receipe over this month? After the new emulsification system do you use higher temperatures to emulsify it or have you made any changes in the shear force?

[manstra]

Thank you @Bill_Toge for that clear and very analytical reply. I agree with you that the most probable emulsion that I created is the one described in picture 2. Do you also consider that my approach with give a timed release product?

@Iaskedbetter which route would you take?

@Bobzchemist thank you for that answer. I will give you a better idea on which systems I worked in order to develop such a system. The essential oils I used were rosmarinus officinallis leaf extract, levandula angustifolia extract, Ocinum Basilicum extract,Cympopogon nardus oil and I have to say that I observed differences on the odour duration of release and intensity on my skin with certain systems. The measurement I do at the moment is only qualitative since I’m in the beginning of developing an insect repellent product.

Emulsification systems:
Span 80 - Tween 60 -> 1-2 hours duration, Strong intensity in odour
PEG-12 Dimethicone - PEG 40 Castor oil - Glycol Distearate   -> 3-4 hours duration , lower intensity in odour
Tween 20 - Glycol distearate -> 7-8 hours, even lower intensity not sure about effectiveness.

Could you suggest a liquid crystal emulsifier?Do I need to make lyophilization in order to entrap the emulsified system and re-emulsify it?

Kind regards to all

All the extract emulsification is done under ambient conditions.

[manstra]

I don’t see a clear link of aloe vera carcinogenicity to humans in this article and there are also a lot of articles who suggest the opposite

http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/731244

http://www.desertharvest.com/physicians/documents/DH127.pdf

[manstra]

Dear Bill_Toge thank you very much for your answer. 

Phase 2 is water in oil if I’m not mistaken and the reason that the oils are in abundance is to make very fine droplets of oil with the minimum possible water. 

 I first develop the water in oil emulsion is stage 2. Due to the difference of the HLB I suspect that the lipophile parts of the two emulsifiers with come together due to Van der Waals interactions making a firmer double emulsion bubble around the extracts. 

I not sure though if this is really happening. I just make a hypothesis and of course any feedback would be perfectly appreciated.

I would definately check patents and research publications. Thank you for the advice.

[manstra]

In case you don’t want to use Salt you could use PEG - 4 rapeseedamide instead. Roughly, for every 1% of SLES (70% active) use approximately 0.25% of the latter. Use also very low shear speed 600rpm. This system will also de-aerate fast in a matter of hours and thickens as it cools

[manstra]

Hmmm I thought that the browing was caused due to the vanillin content of my fragrance. Very interesting point @Bill_toge. 

So @Perry you consider the rest preservs unnessessary? Should I run the challenge test only with DMDM Hydrantoin?Even if i don’t sterilize the deionised water?

Thank you all for the comments

[manstra]

Good point @belassi. My CAPB is 40% so no preservative, Sles 70%, and rapeseedamide 93% both purchased from Kao

[manstra]

http://www.corbion.com/biochemicals/personal-care check this link

[manstra]

Purac is the world leader in lactate systems. I had been working in the past with them in meat formulations but I also use them now in lotions and creams with great success. Sodium lactate is a 60% solution in water and have a strong synergistic effect with sodium diacetate. These are not considered preservatives but rather bacteriostatic agents that increase the bacterial lag phase, reduce the active water for the latter and thus boost the life expectancy of the product. If you have also the correct preservative you have nothing to be afraid of. I use sodium lactate/sodium diacetate at 2.90% in my face and body lotion recipes  (subtracting water in the recipe) along with phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate. pH set at 5.2

[manstra]

I forgot to mention that my initial goal was to have a cream like consistancy in my shampoo and that is the reason I chose Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol. I use the polysorbate 20 to support the dillution of the natural extracts and the fragrance. I also used the triglycerides as a mild emolient for the scalp. 

Thank you Belassi for that quick answer and for giving me the clue that the polyquaternium 10 might have caused the incompatibility with my surfactant system.

Could you give me a clue of a silicone ester that you might use? Would it be nesessary to use also glycol distearate to disperse it?