ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Glyceryl stearate itself is not an emulsifier but a structuring agent. The real emulsifier in the GMS SE is potassium stearate, but since you’re using it at low pH, you end up having 2 structuring agents. In your formula it can work because you have quite some ceteareth-20 and perhaps no (or very little) non polar oils.
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Hi Mike,
Actually, few allergens per each esential oil are identified; that’s why updated lists or allergens include more essential oils as allergens. You can check the updated list of 82 allergens from the EU here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex%3A32023R1545
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The challenge being that many essential oils are known allergens, and it’s hard to find which compound or compounds are responsible, that’s why those essential oils are listed as allergens as whole. And while for synthetic fragrances it’s easier to tailor a fragrance with reduced (or no) levels of allergens, that’s not possible in the case of essential oils.
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The only thing that comes to mind so you can get a paste is to add solids in powder form (carbonato, sulfatos, etc)
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If the pH is around 9, then the Sulfonic acid is mostly neutralized, and you have a sulfonate instead, which is the actual detergent. Sulfonic acid has less surface activity hence is a poorer detergent.
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Then it doesn’t matter. The problem might be to have a cationic elulsifier.
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Which emulsifier is in your microemulsion?
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Even though it might help in processability (although the very use of excessive glycols softens the product forcing them to add glyceryl stearate), PPG and Glycerin will impair the product’s perormance, especially foam (flash foam is fundamental, especially if it’s a SH bar).
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I’d check some patents on how to do the process to form crystals. One way is to use a premix of some of your anionic surfactants, the pearlizer and water. You heat, mix and slowly cool down. You should get a viscous white fluid. You should add this at room temperature to your batch, once you added all the surfactants.
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Could you be a bit more specific about the solubility test? Keep in mind that ZnO, TiO2 and silica are not water soluble.
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To my understanding, the more soluble fragrances (I wouldn’t call them water-soluble since they don’t readily mix with only water to form a clear solution) usually use more solubilizer than the heavier fragrances, and also have smaller and more polar molecules than the other type. They are mostly useful for surfactant-based cleansing products and clear products in general where the main solvent is water.
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The key there for the not completely solid white color is propylene glycol.
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Yes. Cationic polymers are commonly incorporated in shampoos with anionic surfactants without issue.
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Thank you for the advice Perry, I appreciate it 🤓
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Keep in mind that they’re are using way more cetyl than stearyl alcohol. That can influence final viscosity.
Also, this might be a bit counterintuitive, but try with a bit less of SLS.
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First, what are you using to neutralize your sulfonic acid, and what’s your final pH. For these products, the higher the better.
To improve performance, increase your non ionic surfactant (although, i wouldn’t use nonylphenol, and would replace it with something like laureth-9 or laureth-7).
The optical brightener is ubiquitous. Tinopal CBS-X is a good reference, and there are many cheap versions, mainly from China.
A good chelant would also improve your performance.
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Thanks for your comments.
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The two silicones in your benchmark are for clear systems, perhaps that’s the reason.
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Cut both the Guar HPTC and the silicone in half. Then, if you require extra slip, increase the silicone little by little.
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Could you make a test removing ethoxydiglycol?
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Waxes are hard to emulsify, that’s whay they might be getting out of your emulsion and give that waxy feeling. I recommend you to check commercial products so you understand better their fórmulas. For a hair pomade (I think that’s what you’re trying to do), a high amount of a waxy emulsifier like ceteareth-20 can work. Also, styling polymers work well for hold.
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If it were me, i’d choose BTMS since it gives a stiffer alpha gel and a bit more slip thanks to the counterion. Although the difference is not radical, a lower price and decently better performance would make me choose BTMS.
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Coacervates are neutral in nature, so I wouldn’t expect hairs to stick together because of the film. What you could experience is overdeposition, but that depends on your coacervate design and the performance of the shampoo to remove most of the coacervate deposited. You might benefit from this reading: https://www.amazon.com/Conditioning-Agents-Cosmetic-Science-Technology/dp/0824719212
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What it means is that under certain conditions, SCI could suffer hydrolysis since it has an ester functional group. You can check supplier’s website to check what’s the safe pH range of use, but I believe it’s close to 6. Now, that doesn’t mean that at a pH of 5.8 it won’t work since hydrolysis takes time depending on different factors like pH (it will be for sure faster if your pH is at 2).
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Hi. Can you be a bit more specific?