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Stability of GMS SE in acidic ph
Hello experts I want to know your prediction about the stability of cream deo Formulation wich contains gms se : 4-5% , Ceteareth-20 :1-1.5% , Cetearyl Alcohol 4-5%.
Ph=4.5
@Perry44 @Cafe33 @chemicalmatt @Abdullah @ketchito @Paprik @ozgirl @Graillotion @Pharma
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13 Replies
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GMS SE is a potassium soap, and functions as a soap, hence why the mfg’s recommend that it be used at higher pH’s. Maybe the rest of the formula can carry it?
If you want something anionic at a low pH, look at SSG.
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I guess that gms se contains basically non ionic emulsifier which is glyceryl stearate and very low level of stearate soap the other ingredients are : Ppg15 Stearyl Ether, Isopropyl Myristate, Aluminum chlorohydrate, parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate.
I already made sample and it looks great: very smooth texture with ordinary viscosity.
So my guess, scientifically even with low pH just the stearate will decompose to stearic acid and base then because the low level of soap in gms se the stability will be fine, not?
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At pH 4.5 it will work like GMS not se
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So the emulsion will be stable with coupling gms se by ceteareth-20?
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With that amount of Ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol it is better to not use GMS at all for stability and skin feel
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I second @abdullah ‘s recommendation.
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For skin feeling absolutely gms se has very superior feeling versus Ceteareth-2 or 3.the same for viscosity and texture. Just I have doubt about stability. I made sample with gms se from 6 months and still stable…
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Glyceryl stearate itself is not an emulsifier but a structuring agent. The real emulsifier in the GMS SE is potassium stearate, but since you’re using it at low pH, you end up having 2 structuring agents. In your formula it can work because you have quite some ceteareth-20 and perhaps no (or very little) non polar oils.
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Maybe the simplest way to explain it might be…….. at your pH, you are paying for GMS SE …. but you’re getting GMS. 😉
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Deal with that, so the question can gms in used level with ceteareth-20 lead to stable emulsion?
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If you search the forum high and low… there have been discussions…..and they might not all be in the same thread….. about the various pairings…and why Ceteareth-20 is paired with Cetearyl, vs why GMS is paired with PEG-100 Stearate. Those are not random occurrences…but a bit of science behind them.
GMS is often used as a viscosity increaser…. but if you get the level up too high…can induce phase inversions. So just test through them. There are a gazillion ways to increase viscosity….it is just a matter of cost….and if you enjoy the haptics it brings.
Aloha.
NOTE: I asked a similar question about the pairings….in the last year…. maybe put Ceteareth-20 in the search bar….and look for my name…. I think you’ll find it.
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Here yah go:
Which emulsifier is more robust: PEG 100 Stearate or Ceteareth 20? - Chemists Corner
chemistscorner.com
Which emulsifier is more robust: PEG 100 Stearate or Ceteareth 20? - Chemists Corner
I have always thought that the 165 type (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) was the industry's most robust emulsifier. Somehow my matriculation through the cosmetic…
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Thanks a lot for sharing.
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