

johnb
Forum Replies Created
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In regard to the fragrance aspect. Be careful in interpreting the listed fragrance materials in the LOI of the Trevor Sorbie product. The only reason that hexyl cinnamal, butylphenyl methylpropional, linalool and limonene have separate listings is because they are listed in EU regulations as potential allergens requiring identification for the benefit of susceptible persons.
I strongly suggest the you do not seek them out as ingredients with special properties.
Citrus scents are all evanescent to some extent and it is a characteristic property of kaolin to act as an adour absorber so both of these properties are acting against you.
Note that cetearyl alcohol does not have an HLB of 15.5. That figure is more the required HLB of a suitable emulsifier for that material.
Note also that products containing absorbent clays such as kaolin must be very carefully preserved against microbial attack. The absorbency of the clay readily removes preservatives (and many other things) from having any activity.
Lecithin is particularly vulnerable to microbial attack, whether sourced from eggs, soy or sunflowers.
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johnb
MemberMay 19, 2017 at 6:47 am in reply to: Mixing propylene glycol with vegetable oils or mineral oilPropylene glycol is insoluble in mineral oil and most vegetable oils.
I’ve not checked but it may be soluble in castor oil.
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Can you define what you want the fragrance powder to do?
Do you want a fragrance concentrate? A finished dusting powder? a fragrance cleaning product? or?
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Stephanie, I started in this business more than fifty years ago - a time long before the general availability of the computer. In fact the computers that were available were about the size of a house and did little more that what can be done these days on the most basic pocket calculator.
I have never relied on a computer for my work. Yes, a computer is very useful, especially the Internet, but I have to say that I still depend on my brain and experience to maintain my knowledge.
A computer does not and cannot innovate. All it can do is churn out already known information relatively easily. It can manipulate the information but that is all.
I take pity on a lot of people in current work environments who rely totally on what a computer can or will tell them. Their brains must pretty much stagnate with having so little to do and this is often reflected in the mediocre results that are pushed forward. Remember that ALL information obtainable from a computer has been loaded up, in the first instance, by a human.
It is up to another human to be able to interpret information to a creative end whether that information is via a computer, printed words, hearsay or memory.
The direct answer to your question:So John what did you end up using?
My brain. With a little outside assistance from a variety of sources.
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I also noticed on the website there are “no stock” and “sold out” notices.
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All very well making excuses after the damage is done but, this situation should never have arisen. Where was their “due diligence” during manufacture? Where were their QA procedures? How on earth did these faulty products get into the marketplace in such large numbers?
I note from their website that the wipes are “Responsibly made in China” if it weren’t so potentially serious it would be a joke.
https://www.honest.com/baby/honest-wipes
The moral is: Don’t rely on silver citrate as a preservative
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johnb
MemberMay 17, 2017 at 7:36 am in reply to: What’s the difference between leave-in and leave-on products?I’ve never heard the term “leave-in”. It suggests to me that whatever it is requires permanent or semipermanent insertion into a body cavity.
As far as I know the common terms are “leave-on” and “rinse-off”.
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johnb
MemberMay 17, 2017 at 7:20 am in reply to: Looking For Cosmetic Formulation Consultant / Start-Up Batch ManufacturingI think you will find it difficult to find anyone willing to “finish off the very end of my formula”, particularly with such esoteric products as “vegan liquid to matte lipsticks”. Experienced chemists/formulators will be put off by your inexperience as they will have probably gone through this sort of thing previously and had to completely reformulate to obtain a viable product.
Another point is that name dropping such as “New York Times” and hints of “best selling authors” don’t do anything to encourage a positive response.
I’ve noticed you have a previous discussion here https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/2122/bold-liquid-to-matte-lipstcks#latest effectively making the same request.
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Castor wax (hydrogenated castor oil) and numerous natural waxes (carnauba, candelilla, beeswax etc) will thicken/gel oily materials but the form and consistency of the resulting mix will most likely be very different to that obtained from using petroleum jelly.
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Stephanie, as the first post remains unanswered, I think you are on to a loser with this request.
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johnb
MemberMay 17, 2017 at 6:52 am in reply to: What skills should every cosmetic chemists / formulators have?A vital thing that seems to have been completely forgotten so far is a knowledge and understanding of the laws applicable to cosmetic products - and even, in some instances, what constitutes a cosmetic. These laws differ from country to country so if your product is to be marketed in different countries it is necessary to for the product to comply with the regulations in force with that country.
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Regarding the ferulic/niacinamide notion - this is only a thought, I don’t know for certain it will work and I have mislaid my ferulic acid sample to check it out. I do know that certain other materials, related to ferulic acid, form water soluble complexes with niacinamide.
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I wasee told by the same company that it is not compatible with Magnesium Sulphate
Do your products contain magnesium sulphate? If no then that is not a problem. If yes, what function does the magnesium suphate perform? Can it be replaced?
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Better to:
a) mix the ethanol and water and allow the gases to disperse (the gases are simply air that has been dissolved in the water - these dissolved gases may be the cause of your cloudiness).
b) mix the Carbopol with glycerin then add most of the premixed ethanol & water.
c) add the TEA mixed with the remaining ethanol/water mix to the main bulk and mix until homogeneous. Avoid entrapment of air. -
- - and your method of preparation is?
Note that Carbopol 941 has better flow characteristics in a product such as this.
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The alternative(s) to petroleum jelly and lanolin will depend on what you are trying to achieve. I will be difficult to find a petroleum jelly alternative that has the same costings and lanolin can be omitted in most products with little or no loss in performance.
What problem(s) are you experiencing with these materials?
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johnb
MemberMay 15, 2017 at 7:42 am in reply to: What skills should every cosmetic chemists / formulators have?I think that ALL of the above is important - especially the aspects of creativity and not being tied down to what is in the textbooks ( or online, these days, I suppose) or manufacturers literature.
I have had so many junior staff in the past who come along thinking they are going to change the world with their ideas when all they achieve is a minor variation on some very ordinary product straight out of the Croda Formulary. Some of these same pedestrian staff have taken dedicated cosmetics science education courses and won prestigious prizes but, this most certainly does not make them a good Cosmetic Chemist or formulator. They sit (or stand) at a laboratory bench turning out the same boring variations week in, week out hoping for some great innovation which, of course, never comes as they are incapable of (dreadful expression this) thinking outside of the box.
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I don’t see a reason why a shampoo bar of a formula similar to the one given here (with or without lactic acid) should, or would, have a similar pH to soap.
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Check online for commercial products and note their ingredient lists.
The fundamental ingredient of this type of product is water.
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You need to provide more details about your formulation/product and how you are preparing it.