jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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There are courses by Perry listed on the main site page, you can see if the modules fit your needs.
https://chemistscorner.com/products/
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1, 2 or 3 can depend if you have an emulsifier for the oil phase, and a heated process as well.
As Graillotion mentioned, sometimes it doesn’t matter. When Sepimax is hydrated and formed the gel, just high shear it to emulsify the oil phase, then switch to low shear.
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I’m a minimalist, usually maximizing functionality with the streamlined ingredients. I will evaluate & scrutinize my ingredients closely to see if they can have overlapping functions to reduce the use of others if possible.
What Microformulation mentioned about the MOQ / billing of ingredients is something i consider as well. If my product comes to market in the future, i do still have buffer for “fluff” but i believe i’ve considered my functional ingredients already have marketing potential since it’s part of the evaluation.
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You can look for a liquid emulsifier blend or non-bodying emulsifier blend. For example from Making Cosmetics, the CreamMaker® FLUID. Or Montanov L or 202 for non / low bodying solid blends.
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@Paprik normally the shear tolerance is mentioned in the tech sheet for the polymers if they are fine with high shear. At least that is what i saw for Aristoflex AVC, Sepinov & Sepimax.
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I don’t really have a fav but i normally use Sepinov EMT 10 more often currently.
On hand, i have:
- Aristoflex AVC - If i need better thickening or stiffer
- Aristoflex Silk - Something between AVC & Zen
- Sepinov EMT 10 - If i need something soft
- Sepimax Zen - If i need something more electrolyte resistant
Each of them has different textures and sensory, so i use them at a case by case basis.
Sepiplus 400 is a polymeric emulsifier blend, so it’s different from the others you have mentioned since you can use it to create emulsions by itself. For polymeric emulsifier blends, i normally use Sepigel 305 since it’s what i have on hand.
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I find that Glyceryl Glucoside works for my skin, besides from the ones listed above. I’m in an air conditioned room most of the day and i break out if my skin is overly dry.
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I put my thickeners in an air tight container with a large bag of silica gel (I bought a large container of those).
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It depends on what you determine ineffective or efficacy, and also your marketing & budget.
In terms of product functionality wise, it depends on how you want to define the “wrinkle”, “dry” and “aging” to be. How you choose your ingredients can determine performance and how you market.
- Sometimes normal humectants can relief some fine lines via moisturization temporarily, so that also counts.
- For dry skin, do you need a humectant or lipid ingredient?
- For aging, how old and what concerns do they have?
Some examples:
- If with humectants + anti aging, then Natrasmooth + Matrixyl 3000
- If more serious fine lines, then a humectant + Argireline + Matrixyl 3000
- If going more Asian Beauty (plant extracts), then Green Tea Extract + Ginseng
- If going for popular barrier repair trend, then Ceremide Complex &/or Niacinamide + Matrixyl 3000
- You can choose to add some antioxidants for marketing purposes, such as CoQ10
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Propanediol should be less sensitizing.
You can search for Propanediol on https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients , look at table 12, page 61 of the PDF for a comparison that they reviewed.
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I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ?
switch to other emulsifiers?
Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ?Seems you more or less have the ideas in your mind.
You can perhaps refer to emulsifying blends’ SDS that uses Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 to combine your own ratio and then use a carbomer.
Ref SDSs for blends that contains Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20:
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If you are using within recommended rates but it stills becomes “watery”, it means that your preservative (blend) is destabilizing your emulsion. Try using another preservative.
But as Graillotion mentioned, the other details would also be important, so you might want to mention them.
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If you have to use Tremella, then perhaps source it as the original powder form. Some manufacturers do have them in a lower and higher molecular weight. Not sure if it would be cheaper that way but at least you can save on shipping fees due to weight of the premade solution.
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Normally powder polymers don’t melt, they just get dispersed. So if it’s fully dispersed in your oil phase, you can go ahead with the next step.
After cool down, you don’t particularly need to blend again, it’s perhaps better to use a low shear option. If you are at home, just mix it by hand. Normally i just use an overhead lab mixer as i have one at home.
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I think most of the common strategies have been covered including the low HLB. Not much more to add on.
Normally if i have to use a higher percentage of emulsifier(s), i’d just use silicones. Dimethicone or volatile, depending on purpose.
If not, for my normal combination, i’d just use a bodying emulsifier blend (at minimum) with synthetic polymer (for required viscosity). If it still soaps slightly, though not that often, i’d just increase the lipids.
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I would agree that there’s some error somewhere.
In the previous packaging, they did print 5% Panthenol as a repair balm, as shown on the Singapore version of their site. For the US site, the emphasis is on the Dimethicone as a skin protectant. Perhaps they changed the marketing / claims due to the change in percentage of Panthenol and Dimethicone?
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It’s on the Singapore version of their site. Not sure if they have it on their US version.
https://www.laroche-posay.sg/cicaplast/cicaplast-baume-b5-for-adult-and-baby-skin
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It would depend on what caused the redness, and what you mean by “healing”, because sometimes the solution might be different.
The percentage of Panthenol is at 5%, so the first few ingredients would very likely help in reducing redness as it would be a relatively moisturizing base with the Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter/Shea Butter, being in such high percentages.
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You will need to ask the supplier for the estimated percentage of the individual ingredients in the blend. They should be able to provide you if it’s not found in the SDS (if available).
When you have all the percentages or estimated percentage, just reorder them accordingly.
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I don’t make whipped butters, but seems that the problem they have is when they make anhydrous whipped butters? I’ve also seen them mentioning using SOFTISAN® 378 and it would help with that. Doubt you’d have the same graininess issues in an emulsion if the percentage is not that high.
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Here
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You can see the one from Croda (Link here, since if i paste it, it will break up.)
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You can take a look at the brochure. On the brochure, the results are tested after one week of using Isostearyl Isostearate compared to the same percentage of petrolatum. If that is the case, using both could potentially work in synergy since the mechanism is different?
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One reason to add the xanthan after emulsification is that if your water phase is too viscous from the xanthan, it may take a longer time to homogenize and waste more energy. Adding the xanthan slurry after emulsification would be an option since you will need to spend time mixing in low shear anyway. It normally shouldn’t take that long to hydrate fully, so making sure you have a good dispersion would be fine.