jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ?
switch to other emulsifiers?
Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ?Seems you more or less have the ideas in your mind.
You can perhaps refer to emulsifying blends’ SDS that uses Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 to combine your own ratio and then use a carbomer.
Ref SDSs for blends that contains Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20:
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If you are using within recommended rates but it stills becomes “watery”, it means that your preservative (blend) is destabilizing your emulsion. Try using another preservative.
But as Graillotion mentioned, the other details would also be important, so you might want to mention them.
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If you have to use Tremella, then perhaps source it as the original powder form. Some manufacturers do have them in a lower and higher molecular weight. Not sure if it would be cheaper that way but at least you can save on shipping fees due to weight of the premade solution.
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Normally powder polymers don’t melt, they just get dispersed. So if it’s fully dispersed in your oil phase, you can go ahead with the next step.
After cool down, you don’t particularly need to blend again, it’s perhaps better to use a low shear option. If you are at home, just mix it by hand. Normally i just use an overhead lab mixer as i have one at home.
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I think most of the common strategies have been covered including the low HLB. Not much more to add on.
Normally if i have to use a higher percentage of emulsifier(s), i’d just use silicones. Dimethicone or volatile, depending on purpose.
If not, for my normal combination, i’d just use a bodying emulsifier blend (at minimum) with synthetic polymer (for required viscosity). If it still soaps slightly, though not that often, i’d just increase the lipids.
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I would agree that there’s some error somewhere.
In the previous packaging, they did print 5% Panthenol as a repair balm, as shown on the Singapore version of their site. For the US site, the emphasis is on the Dimethicone as a skin protectant. Perhaps they changed the marketing / claims due to the change in percentage of Panthenol and Dimethicone?
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It’s on the Singapore version of their site. Not sure if they have it on their US version.
https://www.laroche-posay.sg/cicaplast/cicaplast-baume-b5-for-adult-and-baby-skin
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It would depend on what caused the redness, and what you mean by “healing”, because sometimes the solution might be different.
The percentage of Panthenol is at 5%, so the first few ingredients would very likely help in reducing redness as it would be a relatively moisturizing base with the Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter/Shea Butter, being in such high percentages.
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You will need to ask the supplier for the estimated percentage of the individual ingredients in the blend. They should be able to provide you if it’s not found in the SDS (if available).
When you have all the percentages or estimated percentage, just reorder them accordingly.
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I don’t make whipped butters, but seems that the problem they have is when they make anhydrous whipped butters? I’ve also seen them mentioning using SOFTISAN® 378 and it would help with that. Doubt you’d have the same graininess issues in an emulsion if the percentage is not that high.
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Here
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You can see the one from Croda (Link here, since if i paste it, it will break up.)
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You can take a look at the brochure. On the brochure, the results are tested after one week of using Isostearyl Isostearate compared to the same percentage of petrolatum. If that is the case, using both could potentially work in synergy since the mechanism is different?
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One reason to add the xanthan after emulsification is that if your water phase is too viscous from the xanthan, it may take a longer time to homogenize and waste more energy. Adding the xanthan slurry after emulsification would be an option since you will need to spend time mixing in low shear anyway. It normally shouldn’t take that long to hydrate fully, so making sure you have a good dispersion would be fine.
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As Mark mentioned, keep it simple.
Start with the functional & structural ingredients, then add/replace the “actives”, additional modifiers, additives as required. That’s how i normally start with when i learnt it on my own, trying to spot the functional and structural ingredients to evaluate what ingredient does what. You will learn over time to have a structure or format / build. This would pertain to your question of “What ingredients do I need to accomplish this as well and productive as possible?”.
For the other questions, it’s something you need to decide based on your target audience or who you are formulating the product for.
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The recommendation can depend on your cost and viscosity that you want to achieve. Normally HEC or Xanthan or other gums would be fine. Since there’s Sodium Lactate, the recommendation for polymeric emulsifiers would mainly be Sepimax Zen.
If you are using Urea, you should be able to use any of them.
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i am receiving feedbacks that some people dont like how it feels when they apply it to face.
I think it’s important to ask them why that is the case, and what they don’t like about how it feels. Perhaps they are just not used to the formulation or the previous products they have applied makes the application of your product make them feel uncomfortable.
For my own testing, i will apply on the back of my hands, then do a half face with another formulation that i want to test.
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SHOULD YOU WEAR SUNSCREEN INDOORS? THE SCIENCE (WITH VIDEO)
How many of you use a sunscreen product on a regular basis?When i’m out for long periods of time under the sun. I normally don’t sit near windows indoors.
why aren’t all moisturizers made with sunscreen ingredients?Because it requires validation of SPF values since they are regulated as drugs / claims. Formulating and validation is an expensive process.
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If you check some of the brochures, the lowest recommendation mentioned would be pH 4 or 4.5.
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@helenhelen
Just wondering for the Phyto-Oil C3, what percentage did you test it at? -
Propylene glycol or propanediol should be fine. I make my own liquid version with propanediol.
Reference to the solubility of the powder.
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Lab muffin as a blog post on oils & free fatty acids, not sure if it would be useful for some references that you might fine interesting. https://labmuffin.com/video-skincare-oils-free-fatty-acids-science/
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For some countries, incidental ingredients don’t need to be listed. For example, the US. You can check the local regulatory guidelines for confirmation. If not you can just write everything.
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide#clgl9
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I think it’s better to write a generic benefit statement / description. You can perhaps consider the descriptions from The Ordinary products like this 7% Glycolic Toner one:
…offers mild exfoliation for improved skin radiance and visible clarity. The formula also improves the appearance of skin texture with continued use.This 2% treatment solution helps exfoliate the inside walls of pores to fight the appearance of blemishes and for better visible skin clarity with continued use. -
As a marketer, personally i’d say that product performance or efficacy, marketing, pricing would be factors for consideration.
In the upfront, normally a product should be designed for specific demographic(s), so it should then be marketed in specific ways to reach those customers. It depends on where the customers can be reached to be marketed.
Having a proper presence would be important. For example, a company can reach out to specific (beauty) testers to get testimonials, and also reach out to (specific) influencers, to build up their (online) presence.
In terms of story wise, sometimes there’s just a brand story or sometimes it’s a product series story. It depends on what kind of story the company wants to go for since it’s all part of the marketing. For example, about claims or about the ingredients. The story can be the justification of the price point.
Getting the customer interested and make the initial purchase would normally be the key factor. From there onwards, product performance would create repeat sales, which will increase more recommendations either online or offline.
It’s very rarely pure luck.