Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Reducing white rub-in time in emulsions

  • Reducing white rub-in time in emulsions

    Posted by Nihed on February 10, 2022 at 5:28 pm

    Hi everyone ! hope you’re doing well,
    So I have a little problem here and I hope to find an answer to it.
    Where I live emulsifying waxes are not available so I have to make my own emulsion with co-emulsifiers and find the right amount to add. I usially use glyceryl streate , ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol.
    I’ve never had a problem with stability (maybe because I use too much emulsifiers lol ), when I apply my cream it usually foams a little bit and it’s annoying, it takes more time to rub it in but it does not leave a white cast or annything.
    Here is how I usually procede I add 25% ( glyceryl streate + ceteareth-20 ) to the total of my oil phase excluding the cetearyl alcohol (I add 3%  seperatly I dont’t include it to the total weight of the oil phase.I like the hold and texture that it gives to creams) hope I’m making sense 

    in the following exemple I t reduced the cetearyl alcohol to 1% but the the problem remains the same + the texture was lighter and not really how I like it.
    here is the formulation : face cream for dry skin

    water phase
    water 
    glycerin              7%
    xanthan gum      0.3%

    oil phase 
    jojoba oil              4%
    avocado oil           4%
    sweet almond oil   4%
    Coconut oil            3%
    Beeswax                2%
    Cetearyl alcohol    1%
    glyceryl stereate    3.4 %      
    ceteareth-20         0.85 %

    Cool down phase
    preservative 
    tocopherol
    Fragrance

    Ph is around 5

    Calculation
    ( oils + besswax = 17% —-> 0.25 x 17 = 4.25% (GS+ C-20) I always play with the ratio of GS and c-20 this time it was 80% and 20%
     + of course 1% of my beloved cetearyl alcohol 

    I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
    what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ? 
    switch to other emulsifiers? 
    Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ? 

    Thank you in adavance !

     

    Nihed replied 2 years, 4 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:02 am

    Use the search bar, and enter the word ‘soaping’.

  • Paprik

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:34 am

    What @Graillotion said and also ….

    Please check your emulsifiers. Are you trying to create O/W emulsion or W/O?

    And please, do not calculate anything. There is no general rule. Well, the 1/4 of oils may work for one or two emulsifiers. 

    I wonder how the cream feels actually. And what is your skin type. I guess ultra dry?

  • jemolian

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 7:14 am
    I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
    what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ? 
    switch to other emulsifiers? 
    Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ? 

    Seems you more or less have the ideas in your mind. 

    You can perhaps refer to emulsifying blends’ SDS that uses Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 to combine your own ratio and then use a carbomer. 

    Ref SDSs for blends that contains Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20:

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 1:58 pm

    If you are generally satisfied with the cream and don’t want to change too much, my only suggestion is to reduce the amount of glycerin. It won’t improve the soaping, but it may reduce the rub-in time a little.

  • Nihed

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:36 pm

    Paprik said:

    What @Graillotion said and also ….

    Please check your emulsifiers. Are you trying to create O/W emulsion or W/O?
    @Paprik  O/W emulsion

    And please, do not calculate anything. There is no general rule. Well, the 1/4 of oils may work for one or two emulsifiers. 

    I wonder how the cream feels actually. And what is your skin type. I guess ultra dry?
    It’s a rich cream for those with dry skin it hydrate and also protect. I usually don’t add coconut oil but I like to play with different emollients, it may appear from the formula I shared quite greasy but I can confirm to you that it’s really not, the cream gets absorbed easily and is not that heavy . but it’s definitely not for oily skin type.

    thank you for the advice !

  • Nihed

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:42 pm

    @jemolian 
    gonna try this new blend 
    thank you for your help !!

  • Nihed

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:43 pm

    If you are generally satisfied with the cream and don’t want to change too much, my only suggestion is to reduce the amount of glycerin. It won’t improve the soaping, but it may reduce the rub-in time a little.

    @@grapefruit22
    I’ll try it 
    thank you for your the advice  !

  • Nihed

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 2:59 pm

    Use the search bar, and enter the word ‘soaping’.

    @Graillotion thank you ! I found very interesting answers from the posts

  • Abdullah

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 3:30 pm

    I would say reduce everything in oil phase and increase fatty alcohol

  • Nihed

    Member
    February 11, 2022 at 7:59 pm

    Abdullah said:

    I would say reduce everything in oil phase and increase fatty alcohol

    @Abdullah noted
    thank you!

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