Reducing white rub-in time in emulsions
Hi everyone ! hope you’re doing well,
So I have a little problem here and I hope to find an answer to it.
Where I live emulsifying waxes are not available so I have to make my own emulsion with co-emulsifiers and find the right amount to add. I usially use glyceryl streate , ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol.
I’ve never had a problem with stability (maybe because I use too much emulsifiers lol ), when I apply my cream it usually foams a little bit and it’s annoying, it takes more time to rub it in but it does not leave a white cast or annything.
Here is how I usually procede I add 25% ( glyceryl streate + ceteareth-20 ) to the total of my oil phase excluding the cetearyl alcohol (I add 3% seperatly I dont’t include it to the total weight of the oil phase.I like the hold and texture that it gives to creams) hope I’m making sense
in the following exemple I t reduced the cetearyl alcohol to 1% but the the problem remains the same + the texture was lighter and not really how I like it.
here is the formulation : face cream for dry skin
xanthan gum 0.3%
jojoba oil 4%
avocado oil 4%
sweet almond oil 4%
Coconut oil 3%
Cetearyl alcohol 1%
glyceryl stereate 3.4 %
ceteareth-20 0.85 %
Cool down phase
Ph is around 5
( oils + besswax = 17% —-> 0.25 x 17 = 4.25% (GS+ C-20) I always play with the ratio of GS and c-20 this time it was 80% and 20%
+ of course 1% of my beloved cetearyl alcohol
I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ?
switch to other emulsifiers?
Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ?
Thank you in adavance !