Reducing white rub-in time in emulsions

Tagged: emulsion, formulating, formulation, stability, viscosity

Formulating

Reducing white rub-in time in emulsions

Posted by Nihed on February 10, 2022 at 5:28 pm

Hi everyone ! hope you’re doing well,
So I have a little problem here and I hope to find an answer to it.
Where I live emulsifying waxes are not available so I have to make my own emulsion with co-emulsifiers and find the right amount to add. I usially use glyceryl streate , ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol.
I’ve never had a problem with stability (maybe because I use too much emulsifiers lol ), when I apply my cream it usually foams a little bit and it’s annoying, it takes more time to rub it in but it does not leave a white cast or annything.
Here is how I usually procede I add 25% ( glyceryl streate + ceteareth-20 ) to the total of my oil phase excluding the cetearyl alcohol (I add 3% seperatly I dont’t include it to the total weight of the oil phase.I like the hold and texture that it gives to creams) hope I’m making sense

in the following exemple I t reduced the cetearyl alcohol to 1% but the the problem remains the same + the texture was lighter and not really how I like it.
here is the formulation : face cream for dry skin

water phase
water
glycerin 7%
xanthan gum 0.3%

oil phase
jojoba oil 4%
avocado oil 4%
sweet almond oil 4%
Coconut oil 3%
Beeswax 2%
Cetearyl alcohol 1%
glyceryl stereate 3.4 %
ceteareth-20 0.85 %

Cool down phase
preservative
tocopherol
Fragrance

Ph is around 5

Calculation
( oils + besswax = 17% —-> 0.25 x 17 = 4.25% (GS+ C-20) I always play with the ratio of GS and c-20 this time it was 80% and 20%
+ of course 1% of my beloved cetearyl alcohol

I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ?
switch to other emulsifiers?
Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ?

Thank you in adavance !

Nihed replied 2 years, 2 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

graillotion

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:02 am

Use the search bar, and enter the word ‘soaping’.
paprik

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:34 am

What @Graillotion said and also ….

Please check your emulsifiers. Are you trying to create O/W emulsion or W/O?

And please, do not calculate anything. There is no general rule. Well, the 1/4 of oils may work for one or two emulsifiers.

I wonder how the cream feels actually. And what is your skin type. I guess ultra dry?
jemolian

Member
February 11, 2022 at 7:14 am
I’m probably using too much emulsifiers.I heard that dimethicone reduce the white foam but it’s also not available for me.
what should I do? ( reduce the emulsifier’s ratio and add another polymer like carbomer to increase the viscosity ?
switch to other emulsifiers?
Do you have any tips to help calculate the right ratios ?

Seems you more or less have the ideas in your mind.

You can perhaps refer to emulsifying blends’ SDS that uses Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 to combine your own ratio and then use a carbomer.

Ref SDSs for blends that contains Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20:
- https://www.biohope.com.cn/vancheerfile/files/profile/2017071715504955.pdf
- https://hallstar-sds.thewercs.com/private/document.aspx?PRD=H064~~PDF~~MTR~~AGHF~~EN~~2015-05-12%2017:04:20~~HALLSTAR%C2%AE%20NCD-20~~
grapefruit22

Member
February 11, 2022 at 1:58 pm

If you are generally satisfied with the cream and don’t want to change too much, my only suggestion is to reduce the amount of glycerin. It won’t improve the soaping, but it may reduce the rub-in time a little.
Nihed

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:36 pm

Paprik said:

What @Graillotion said and also ….

Please check your emulsifiers. Are you trying to create O/W emulsion or W/O?
@Paprik O/W emulsion

And please, do not calculate anything. There is no general rule. Well, the 1/4 of oils may work for one or two emulsifiers.

I wonder how the cream feels actually. And what is your skin type. I guess ultra dry?
It’s a rich cream for those with dry skin it hydrate and also protect. I usually don’t add coconut oil but I like to play with different emollients, it may appear from the formula I shared quite greasy but I can confirm to you that it’s really not, the cream gets absorbed easily and is not that heavy . but it’s definitely not for oily skin type.

thank you for the advice !
Nihed

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:42 pm

@jemolian
gonna try this new blend
thank you for your help !!
Nihed

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:43 pm

grapefruit22 said:

If you are generally satisfied with the cream and don’t want to change too much, my only suggestion is to reduce the amount of glycerin. It won’t improve the soaping, but it may reduce the rub-in time a little.

@@grapefruit22
I’ll try it
thank you for your the advice !
Nihed

Member
February 11, 2022 at 2:59 pm

Graillotion said:

Use the search bar, and enter the word ‘soaping’.

@Graillotion thank you ! I found very interesting answers from the posts
abdullah

Member
February 11, 2022 at 3:30 pm

I would say reduce everything in oil phase and increase fatty alcohol
Nihed

Member
February 11, 2022 at 7:59 pm

Abdullah said:

I would say reduce everything in oil phase and increase fatty alcohol

@Abdullah noted
thank you!