jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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There’s normally no issues with dissolving Niacinamide in water.
You can use other Vit C derivatives that is within that pH range.
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If you want to add the SAP, then the pH of your formula should meet it’s stability requirements unless you are only adding it for marketing / filler purposes. There’s nothing wrong with having the pH at pH 6. If you are concerned about your user’s idea that moisturizers should be pH 5.5 or “pH balanced”, you can always disclaim that assigned pH is for the stability is for the SAP.
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I think it’s because the FDA don’t mind the use of such INCI formats as long as the common name is there, and also Paula’s Choice is catering to the EU standards since they are also selling here in Singapore where we follow the EU regulations. It’s easier to have the label catering to all the standards.
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https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/cosmetic-ingredient-names
International “Harmonization” of Ingredient Names
Cosmetic companies sometimes ask FDA about identifying botanicals only by their Latin names, identifying color additives only by the “CI” numbers used in the European Union, or using terms from other languages, such as “Aqua” and “Parfum” instead of “Water” and “Fragrance.” Under the FPLA, however, ingredients must be listed by their “common or usual names,” and FDA does not accept these alternatives as substitutes. But FDA does not object to their use in parentheses following the common or usual name in English (or Spanish, in Puerto Rico). Here are some examples:
- Water (Aqua)
- Fragrance (Parfum)
- Honey (Mel)
- Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil
- FD&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19140)
According to the link, it seems that it’s fine to just use Jojoba Oil / Jojoba Seed Oil, as per the “common name”. Using “Jojoba” alone is not specific enough, i’d say.
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You can just try a gum + carbomer that is slightly electrolyte tolerant. If the ingredient blend is still being insisted, then gum + sepimax zen.
Alternatively, combining other amino blends + betaine, without the electrolytes would be a good choice.
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I think the issue is if there’s any data to show if the skin’s pH is affected by pH 7 products over a period during the day. People can always apply other products to bring it back down if required after cleansing the sunscreen.
Not sure if there’s any data if the performance of the zinc sunscreen will be affected by pH once applied. I believe the pH issue is that it’s self regulating at pH 7 as the product?
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Potentially both can cause the increase in photosensitivity but normally for AHA products, there’s a general warning for increased photosensitivity, so using sunscreen is encouraged. This would be normally labelled on the product depending on country regulations, so you can take this as part of your consideration in terms of that.
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Dicaprylyl Carbonate ?
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Good to see that potentially the basic combination of Glycerin with Betaine+Propanediol as a combo to detackify would work well enough within the group tested.
For the Hyaluronic Acids, people on reddit has been pushing that it doesn’t work well in lower humidity based on their experience, so it’s good to see some data on that. People are recommending to use a heavier moisturizer or occlusive over the HA, but BTW, i’d just assume that it’s the moisturizer or occlusives doing the water retention work and HA would still pose a risk in dehydration.
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Will recommend looking at the the tech brochure. I find that both the Montanovs are not bodying, so it would be as what you observed. It seems that you are using slightly too high a percentage for the Montanov L.
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Normally you should be able to find some comparison data compiled by the suppliers from Ulprospector.
These are from my dropbox folder that i had saved.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2eboxewsr6r7cd2/AACsSKy8WvtHJwgyG1lAA47pa?dl=0Please download them in case i move them in the future.
Normally i’d use EAA for my own serum since i don’t prefer LAA due to the low pH requirements.
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@Abdullah seems like it’s a description for salt thickening and the salt curve.
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I’d say the question is not if it can, but to what layer and how long would it take, and why / for what purpose.
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It should really also include a “dead sea salt” seasoning packet.
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Looking at the inventor info, i’d assume the fermented rice emulsifier is the Technolong Rice Ferment LP since it’s from Technoble? I saw it being sold by China repackers.
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The addition of Curcylic 40 might have lowered the pH too much for the Sepimax to handle. You can check what pH the Curcylic 40 is in normal distilled water, and perhaps adjust the pH of the formed gel before adding the Curcylic 40.
If you use high percentages of oils then making a transparent gel won’t be possible. Though if you still prefer to add small percentage of lipids, then using a solubilizer will help.
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Normally you should be able to add to either phases, however the end result can be different if you add to either one of the phases, such as difference in viscosity or soapiness or skin feel. The technical sheet of some emulsifiers may show this comparison if they note a large difference, such as Olivem 1000 or PolyAquol-2W, which some of the comparisions.
Normally if i’m making a small test batch of 30ml to 50ml, i’ll just one pot it and add everything into the water phase to heat and process.
For the “homogenize”, you can just mix the phases by stirring normally before mixing both phases if you require, mainly for dispersion of the ingredients.
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@mikeylamar you should be able to find a list of UK sellers from a site like makingskincare or the DIYBeauty sub reddit
- https://makingskincare.com/cosmetic-ingredient-suppliers/
- https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYBeauty/wiki/suppliers
Seems the more common emulsifier blend for the UK is Vegetal / Montanov 68.
Though if you still prefer to purchase from the same seller, you can consider replacing part of your Cetyl alcohol with small percentages of Carbomer. Note the processing method and ingredients that are electrolytes if you consider the Carbomer.
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@grapefruit22 I had copied the info from the MSDS on their ulpropsector page, though on their seppic product page, they do also mention both of them as “Inherently ultimate biodegradable”. I believe we can refer to the test spec conducted that was written on the MSDS if that would be accurate on the polymer?
@ketchito I see. Thanks for the info on that.
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From what i’ve seen when comparing the SDS, Sepinov & Sepimax seems to have a higher biodegradability percentage. Is there a particular reason why that could be the case compared to the others?
- Sepinov - 93 % - Inherent - 28 days
- Sepimax - 79 % - Inherent - 28 days
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Glyceryl stearate & Peg 100 5%
Cetyl alcohol 4%Have you considered changing to another emulsifier blend that can thicken by itself? At least to me it seems relatively high in total percentage.
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Normally people formulating natural / natural derived ingredients don’t really come after synthetic polymers, i guess they don’t really think about it other than the synthetic status?
If there are people coming after the plastics, it would be the people interested in the reduction of microplastics. https://www.beatthemicrobead.org/
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you know actually this polymer is presented to the market as tightly coiled then after hydrating it is slowly starting to uncoil with a negative charge, slightly acidic. best condition to repel each other and remain uncoil.
You might want to look again at the tech sheet. It comes as acidic & “coiled”, it “uncoils” when wetted in water and with the pH increased above pH 4.5, depending on the specific polymer.
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Your percentage of Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is too low. You might want to state the trade name of this ingredient since there are many types, some are not meant for emulsifying.
You will normally need an alkaline buffer if you use Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate.
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Please guide me whether the mixing of these materials will give me a transparent lotion or not?
No, it will not. You might want to test whether your solubilizer is able to solubilize all your lipid ingredients first then see how much percentage is required to make it transparent.
Will the NaPCA make the pH of product on 5-6 or it will be less? It is a good humoctant as well.No one will know, so you need pH buffers if your formula requires. Don’t depend on Sodium PCA to adjust the pH.
I also read here that so many chemists are against HEC, why? Because of its solubility and time wasting? Or its feeling on skin?They have their reasons, but do know that HEC is fine to use, just that it will require processing to ensure that it hydrates properly.
Generally is it good moisturizer lotion with smoothing feeling?Hard to predict that.
One more question is I’m worry about the stability of the product according to the ratio of oil and water phase, in textbook it’s max 74%, mine is so much!It’s a reference but it depends on what materials you use.
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If you want to make a transparent lotion, there may be 2 ways:
- Solubilize the lipid / oil phase, then thicken it. However, the lipid phase shouldn’t be that large because the solubilizer can cause soaping due to the percentage required.
- If you look for clear or transparent type lotions in retail, they may use a water soluble emollient or lipid. Normally those will be PPG / PEG type emollients or silicones. Sometimes they may add humectants but call it a lotion.