• Posted by Queen_Benin2468 on July 3, 2022 at 2:47 pm

    Good day great minds.
    I’m still a learner in this field of life. :)
    In my formulation I’m using the following:

    Niacinamide. - pH of 3.5 - 7.5
    N-acetyl Glucosamine. - 5-6
    Since N-ACETYL works well with Niacinamide.
    Giga White  - 3.0-6.5
    Licorice 5-9

    My concern now is that, I want to add Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) which its pH is fixed  or more stable at 6. What do you advice I do, since I’m aiming my final product pH to be 5.5? Should I removed it or what can I do for it to still be there?

    Prior to this time, I was taught that Niacinamide pH is 6, but most formulators are putting the above pH on their site, please how true is this?

    I’m adding licorice to also help fight against free radicals.

    In anticipation for your reply.

    Queen_Benin2468 replied 2 years ago 3 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Squinny

    July 3, 2022 at 11:32 pm

    There is a paper called “Rate Studies on the Hydrolysis of Niacinamide” and they used hydrochloric acid to perform the experiment in the acid region.  The study found that a 10% Niacinamide solution heated to around 89 degrees C and then taken to a pH of below 4.5 with a STRONG acid did start to hydrolyse and form Niacin and that this conversion was a first order reaction which it says basically means it went from Niacinamide to Niacin without turning into anything else first.  The study found that between pH 4.5-6 very little of this shifting occurred and in fact at pH 4.5 – 6 the half-life of the solution was found to be 1000 days which probably means that the average cosmetic formulator has little to worry about. So would be good if this is true.
    I have formulated with Niacinamide at around pH 5 with no issues and also now add in my cool-down stage when doing emulsions as other info I have found out from a Cosmetic Chemist here in Australia said it should be added at temps below 70 degrees C. It would be good to hear what other real Chemist have to say smile
    Just type Niacinamide in the Search area and see what other discussions there are on this forum. Cheers

    Also this link
    Using Niacinamide in an acidic formulation | Realize Beauty (wordpress.com)

  • jemolian

    July 4, 2022 at 12:33 am

    If you want to add the SAP, then the pH of your formula should meet it’s stability requirements unless you are only adding it for marketing / filler purposes. There’s nothing wrong with having the pH at pH 6. If you are concerned about your user’s idea that moisturizers should be pH 5.5 or “pH balanced”, you can always disclaim that assigned pH is for the stability is for the SAP.  

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 5:58 am

    Okay. Thanks alot for your comments. Please, how do I effectively dissolve the Niacinamide to be added at below 70 degree C. 

    Also, please, which other ingredient can I use to replace the SAP to have exact pH of around 5?

    From the comments above, the only issue now is the SAP. 

  • jemolian

    July 4, 2022 at 6:07 am

    There’s normally no issues with dissolving Niacinamide in water. 

    You can use other Vit C derivatives that is within that pH range. 

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 6:23 am

    Okay. Thanks. Should I use cold or hot water in dissolving it? I’m using 5% of it.

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 8:15 am

    Please, I went to search more on alternative to SAP, as for MAP, some site said pH 6, below 6 will cause discloration. Some said 7-8 to be more stable. Some said 5-6, anything less or higher won’t be stable. Please, I need assistance, which is true?

    I would have used L ascorbic acid, but, I’m scared of oxidation. 

  • jemolian

    July 4, 2022 at 8:31 am

    Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

    You can just use normal temperate water for Niacinamide. If you want to use hot water, then just below 70 degree C that you have mentioned if it’s based on supplier recommendations. 

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 10:26 am

    Wow! Thanks alot

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 10:34 am

    I’m sorry for the constant question, I really want to get it right, can I use any of the above alternative you mentioned with Niacinamide?

  • jemolian

    July 4, 2022 at 10:47 am

    If it’s within the pH range, yes. 

  • Queen_Benin2468

    July 4, 2022 at 2:53 pm

    Okay. Thanks a great deal

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