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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Transparent Gel with Sepimax Zen

  • Transparent Gel with Sepimax Zen

    Posted by SonOfMan on May 13, 2022 at 3:53 am

    I’m trying to make a transparent facial gel with Sepimax Zen
    (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) with the formula below which separated.

    Formula

    57% Water

    30% Rose Hydrosol

    1.5% Glycerine

    3% Propanediol (INCI – Propanediol Dicaprylate)

    5% Curcylic 40 (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine &
    Salicylic acid)

    1.5% Anti Acne Formula (Copaifera officinalis (balsam
    copaiba) resin, Carapa guaiansis seed oil, Euterpe oleracea pulp oil)

    1% Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6)

    1% Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

     

    Method

    Water + Glycerine + Propanediol + Sepimax Zen – mixed with
    hand blender and allowed to hydrate for 2 hours.

    Then added Curcylic 40 + Anti Acne Formula + Phenoxyethanol,
    Ethylhexylglycerin – hand mix with spatula.

     

    Result

    Formulation separated

     

    Question

    Do I need an emulsifier? If so, which is appropriate?

    Is it possible to make a transparent gel which contains oil
    phase?

    What can I do to achieve my intended result?

    ketchito replied 8 months, 4 weeks ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    May 13, 2022 at 3:57 am

    Do I need an emulsifier? If so, which is appropriate? - I would say no, Sepimax ZEN is your emulsifier at this input. You can lower it and add some other non-ionic emulsifier to make it more creamy (less gelly). However only stability testing will answer your question. 

    Is it possible to make a transparent gel which contains oil phase? I would say no. Once you introduce lipid (not solubilised) it will turn milky.

    What can I do to achieve my intended result? Remove oil or solubilise it. 

  • SonOfMan

    Member
    May 13, 2022 at 4:06 am

    Thanks very much Paprik. I very much appreciate your straight to the point response.

  • jemolian

    Member
    May 13, 2022 at 9:40 am

    The addition of Curcylic 40 might have lowered the pH too much for the Sepimax to handle. You can check what pH the Curcylic 40 is in normal distilled water, and perhaps adjust the pH of the formed gel before adding the Curcylic 40. 

    If you use high percentages of oils then making a transparent gel won’t be possible. Though if you still prefer to add small percentage of lipids, then using a solubilizer will help. 

  • ketchito

    Member
    May 13, 2022 at 11:59 am

    @SonOfMan I agree with @Paprik. I believe your Anti acne formula ingredient is the one responsible. Now, there are actually very few ingredients that demonstrate anti acne properties, and those make your product a drug rather than a cosmetic. So, if you are addin the Anti acne formula ingredient just for claim purposes, reduce it to the least amount possible (for example, 0.01%).