jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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@kivangel i’ve haven’t tried it in anhydrous formulas, normally i use the ones i’ve mentioned in my o/w moisturizer, but i don’t think it would be too difficult or different for anhydrous processing.
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If you are ordering from TKB, you can try their Tridecyl Trimellitate.
If you are considering to order from MSR, they do also have Tridecyl Trimellitate, but you can also consider Diisostearyl Malate (mentioned above), Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate or Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate (rich but less thick consistency).
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Perhaps they just treated it as a pure drug product and not as a drug/cosmetics, which the drug/cosmetics should still list the ingredients normally.
At least i didn’t see anything related to inactive ingredients for my Asean directives for sunscreen guidelines
Ref
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The Sodium Phytate won’t do so well with the Sepinov EMT 10, so you can test the effect of the Sepinov alone with the Sodium Phytate to see what kind of viscosity you get.
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Normally when creating an emulsion, you’d use the homogenizer first, then use the stirrer. The functionality is different.
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Looking at the video on the official website, the process and material should be similar to the process used in gastronomy to make caviar, it should be the algin or carrageenan from the ingredients list.
Other bead manufacturers may use materials like agar. You can refer to biogenics for their beads.
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I’d assume that Glycerin & Urea potentially could be taken up by the skin, possibly other osmotyles such as Betaine, Inositol, Taurine?
The other NMF might work as ingredients that help replenish the skin, perhaps the lipids, or help boost the other NMF of the skin via increased synthesis, perhaps the amino acids or carbohydrates / sugars?
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If you mean like from the Pemulen series, then the downside will be the particle size, it won’t be as small if using a normal emulsifier. You can consider it a suspension. You can look at their formulation guide.
For making a gel cream, you can just use an emulsifier + carbomer combo.
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For the lanolin replacement, if you can’t get any of the sterols or the Veg-Lanolin, you can just use any paste type emollient that has better water retaining properties. The similarity between all of the mentioned is just that, if you look into the data sheets, you will be able to see.
For the Isononyl Isononanoate, it largely depends on how much you use really. It’s a light ester, but if you prefer rich and creamy, you can perhaps choose a more medium or slightly heavier ester, or a combination for that effect.
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For the Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, it can depend on the type used. Normally i use it to replace my Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride in some of the test formulas.
For the Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, it’s a lanolin replacement, so other sterols you mentioned would be fine. You can perhaps also consider other lanolin replacements like Veg-Lanolin. It goes by a few names, the INCI is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables.
For the Isononyl Isononanoate, other light esters will do, like Coco-Caprylate/Caprate.
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@Squinny if you are using air shipment, then the shipping cost will be expensive since it has been on the rise.
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To keep it simpler, you can use the ingredient or blend with water & preservatives in a roll on bottle, in cases where the aristoflex don’t work well if there’s any preservatives with electrolytes in the ingredient or blend.
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Not sure what the intention for the 1% is but to marketing it would be a good tool to “deceive” or confuse the customer.
People often look at the ingredients list and perceive better value for products with marketed / hero ingredients higher on the list.
One of the reddit post i saw, asked about if the Ceramides in the Cerave Moisturizing Cream had changed in percentages. In the photos shown on the post of 2 packaging, one of them had the marketed ingredients up front, and another had the ingredients in proper descending order. We won’t be able to tell if the percentages had changed but to the customer it would definitely devalue the product to a certain extent.
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If it’s within the pH range, yes.
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Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
You can just use normal temperate water for Niacinamide. If you want to use hot water, then just below 70 degree C that you have mentioned if it’s based on supplier recommendations.
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There’s normally no issues with dissolving Niacinamide in water.
You can use other Vit C derivatives that is within that pH range.
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If you want to add the SAP, then the pH of your formula should meet it’s stability requirements unless you are only adding it for marketing / filler purposes. There’s nothing wrong with having the pH at pH 6. If you are concerned about your user’s idea that moisturizers should be pH 5.5 or “pH balanced”, you can always disclaim that assigned pH is for the stability is for the SAP.
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I think it’s because the FDA don’t mind the use of such INCI formats as long as the common name is there, and also Paula’s Choice is catering to the EU standards since they are also selling here in Singapore where we follow the EU regulations. It’s easier to have the label catering to all the standards.
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https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/cosmetic-ingredient-names
International “Harmonization” of Ingredient Names
Cosmetic companies sometimes ask FDA about identifying botanicals only by their Latin names, identifying color additives only by the “CI” numbers used in the European Union, or using terms from other languages, such as “Aqua” and “Parfum” instead of “Water” and “Fragrance.” Under the FPLA, however, ingredients must be listed by their “common or usual names,” and FDA does not accept these alternatives as substitutes. But FDA does not object to their use in parentheses following the common or usual name in English (or Spanish, in Puerto Rico). Here are some examples:
- Water (Aqua)
- Fragrance (Parfum)
- Honey (Mel)
- Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil
- FD&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19140)
According to the link, it seems that it’s fine to just use Jojoba Oil / Jojoba Seed Oil, as per the “common name”. Using “Jojoba” alone is not specific enough, i’d say.
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You can just try a gum + carbomer that is slightly electrolyte tolerant. If the ingredient blend is still being insisted, then gum + sepimax zen.
Alternatively, combining other amino blends + betaine, without the electrolytes would be a good choice.
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I think the issue is if there’s any data to show if the skin’s pH is affected by pH 7 products over a period during the day. People can always apply other products to bring it back down if required after cleansing the sunscreen.
Not sure if there’s any data if the performance of the zinc sunscreen will be affected by pH once applied. I believe the pH issue is that it’s self regulating at pH 7 as the product?
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Potentially both can cause the increase in photosensitivity but normally for AHA products, there’s a general warning for increased photosensitivity, so using sunscreen is encouraged. This would be normally labelled on the product depending on country regulations, so you can take this as part of your consideration in terms of that.
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Dicaprylyl Carbonate ?
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Good to see that potentially the basic combination of Glycerin with Betaine+Propanediol as a combo to detackify would work well enough within the group tested.
For the Hyaluronic Acids, people on reddit has been pushing that it doesn’t work well in lower humidity based on their experience, so it’s good to see some data on that. People are recommending to use a heavier moisturizer or occlusive over the HA, but BTW, i’d just assume that it’s the moisturizer or occlusives doing the water retention work and HA would still pose a risk in dehydration.
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Will recommend looking at the the tech brochure. I find that both the Montanovs are not bodying, so it would be as what you observed. It seems that you are using slightly too high a percentage for the Montanov L.