New to Formulating - Creating a gel cream
I am new to formulating, have been experimenting for about 5 months now. I am trying to create a water gel cream for oily-acne prone skin. A week ago, I created a “gel cream” using only Sepinov EMT 10 as the emulsifier but it was too sticky for me. My brand is also against using silicones.(I’ve heard this cuts down on stickiness) I am trying a new formula with RitaMulse(Also EcoMulse) because I love the powdery skin feel . I want to use this as a cream but also to have that gel component for the “gel cream” so I added in sepinov emt for that gel texture. After making the emulsion, it was too liquid and didn’t really have that thickness I’m going for in a gel cream. There was also bit of a drag with a small soaping effect. My purpose for this gel cream is a light water gel cream that is hydrating and moisturizing for oily acne prone skin that won’t clog pores, no irritation and not leave a greasy feeling or look to the skin. Here’s the formula I just tried:
Heated Water Phase
Willow Bark(powder form) 5%
Sodium Phytate 0.2%
Heated Oil Phase
Caprylic Capri Triglycerides 2%
Jojoba Esters 1%
HMW Hyaluronic Acid .30%
Euxyl 703 .80%
Goji Berry Extract (dissolved in propanediol) 2%
After heating both to 158F , dissolving the Sepinov into the oil phase, I added the water phase into oil phase and mixed using my stick blender. It was very liquid. I mixed for awhile and it did not thicken, so I left it alone. I came back a few minutes later and used a mini milk frothier and then it thickened and became thick like a lotion but not really the gel cream I’m going for and also a small soaping effect. I then added the HA and it was small chunks as I mixed but dissolved over time.
Any suggestions on what can I do to get that gel cream texture that’s thick but also breaks nice on the skin. I also would like to know if the HA and goji berry extract(extract and propanediol) can be added in the heated water phase to cut down on the cool down phase.
Thanks in advance!