Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Very simple vehicle to test water soluble ingredients.

  • Very simple vehicle to test water soluble ingredients.

    Posted by Graillotion on July 17, 2022 at 7:18 pm

    Somehow my new eye cream project, which is still just in my head, has welcomed 10+ all new ingredients from various delivery agencies.  Ingredients I have never worked with, or even imagined working with.  My modus operandi has always been to learn my ingredients on a one-on-one basis.

    Most if not all of the ingredients I am looking at are water soluble…. so, what vehicle can I use to apply these around me eye for a week, that will not bring any value, and let the ingredient shine or fail.

    A cursory thought was just Aristoflex AVC, water, preservative and new ingredient.

    But I am sure there are better ideas?  How is this done at the commercial level, without the vehicle getting in the way?


    OldPerry replied 1 year, 9 months ago 6 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Graillotion

    July 17, 2022 at 7:36 pm

    As I am not selling ingredients…I want the legitimate results.  I often smile when I see the vehicles created by those selling an ingredient…like adding glycerol to the vehicle of a product that is supposed to moisturize. :D

    I have too many active/claim ingredients…so I need to thin the field. 

  • Mayday

    July 18, 2022 at 8:00 am

    Rather than thickening to a gel, what about using dropper bottles? Plus a small amount of Xanthan Gum or else for spreading the drops better.

  • jemolian

    July 18, 2022 at 10:04 am

    To keep it simpler, you can use the ingredient or blend with water & preservatives in a roll on bottle, in cases where the aristoflex don’t work well if there’s any preservatives with electrolytes in the ingredient or blend.

  • Abdullah

    July 19, 2022 at 6:51 am

    Agree with Jemolian & Mayday. 0.05% xanthan or 0.3% surfactant helps spreading of water much better. 

  • PhilGeis

    July 19, 2022 at 12:46 pm

    How will you justify safety of the new ingredients?

  • OldPerry

    July 19, 2022 at 12:57 pm

    Glycerin would be your baseline performance target. If combining glycerin with an “active ingredient” doesn’t lead to an improvement, then doesn’t that demonstrate the new ingredient isn’t worth using?

    This has always been my problem with the studies that are done by raw material suppliers. They often demonstrate an effect versus nothing. But we already have ingredients that do something. If a new ingredient is going to be worthwhile, it should be able to out perform the current technology.

    While a dial-up phone is great compared to no phone, it pales in comparison to a mobile smart phone. Why even bother?

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