[Graillotion]

ETcellphone said:

Pattsi said:

usually  acne prone skin is oily type  so they  can tolerate  acne treatment  quit well  cos most would dry their skins out.
but you are on the dry side which is make it harder to treat.

ETcellphone said:
pimples, blocked pores and irritation.

the problem might be your over all routine or daily life how you treat your skin, how u eat , how u sleep etc.

might start with how u clean ur skin.
cleansing oil or balm might be a good chioce or double clean system might do better. you have to try what’s work for you.

Tretinoin 0.025% cream might be a good start if it drys your skin then add aloe or licorice gel.

IMHO i would recommend seeking a consult from dermatologist for some period of time and when u find what is actually your problem then u can design ur own routine for urself.

 if you don’t know what cause your skin to break out it will be a bit hard to start formulate your own serum.

as for TEWL ingredient petrolatum is a gold standard, you can start on low like 0.1- 0.3 if it is still too much i say you can look into light weight baby cream like Ezerra or baby sebamed.

 Happy formulating

I tried cleansing balms in the past but they are too heavy for my skin. I need something that foams up and is oil free. I think the cleanser I am using currently is very gentle and its just the nature of my skin to get easily dried out once it is cleansed. 

I wish I could use tretinoin! However I cannot find a sunscreen that works for me (doesn’t give me acne). 

Hmm adding in a small percentage of petroleum… I never thought of it, but MAYBE it would be ok at a super small amount. 

Thanks for the tips

Here is an interesting ingredient that has caught my eye…and I will play with in my next facial cream formulation:

https://lotioncrafter.com/products/biolatum?_pos=3&_sid=354257d77&_ss=r

[Graillotion]

lushderma said:

Sucrose Stearate makes nice light creams from my experience. 

Used as a co-emulsifier, or a primary?

Thank you for your comment.

[Graillotion]

Are all small scale producers just using scissors?   

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jemolian said:

Normally i’d do light gel creams since it’s humid where i am, so my basic format is like this: 

• 5% - 10% Ester (normally Isononyl Isononanoate)
• 3% Lotionpro 165 or similar, Montanov L is fine as well
• 2% Cetyl Alcohol
• 1% Aristoflex AVC or 0.75% Sodium Carbomer
• Glycerin with Betaine
• Preservative 

I don’t use Glycols or Diols since they make my face tingle. Other Montanovs should be fine. It’s replaceable with Montanov 202 if you want a matte finish. 

Thank you for your response.  I have most of those items on hand.
I will experiment.

[Graillotion]

chemicalmatt said:

You are encountering one of the steadfast rules of emulsion chemistry: avoid adding strong electrolytes to o/w emulsions at any time, but if you must, then add while at elevated temperature. IF it were w/o or w/Si, that’s a different story.

Sorry to jump in…kinda out of context…. but at what point would you add a 1% Hyaluronic acid solution to a lotion emulsion?

[Graillotion]

Betaine is super hard to find….amongst the repackers….I have ONLY found it ONE place:
https://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/VegeMoist_Beet_Sugar_Extract_/894

Would love to have an alternative source!!!

[Graillotion]

ETcellphone said:

Graillotion said:

I see someone mentioned Jojoba esters…have you looked at this one.  I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

Nice! Thank you for the link. It has helped maintain moisture to your skin? I am very acne prone to oils, so I am curious about esters, and if they were suitable for my kind of skin.  

Yes, it has done a good job at 2% inclusion rate.  Floratech will send you a sample if you ask.  And if you like it…there are several repackers selling it in the US…I think I got mine at Noble Roots…since I did not want the large quantity that Floratech had as a minimum.  Note: I also tried a couple batches at 1.5%…and the difference was pretty notable.  So went with with 2%.  I suppose as with all formulas…. it will depend a lot of what else you are working with.

[Graillotion]

You mention lightweight lotion…and Shea in the same thread…hehehe.  Can those really be in the same discussion? (said tongue in cheek).  I have gone through the gamut of butters…and here are my top 3 for a non-greasy lotion:
(not in any particular order)… Cupuacu, Murumuru, Illipe.  
Just like mac nut oil…I found HUGE variations from suppliers.  I will ONLY buy mine from https://www.makeyourown.buzz/butters-oils-waxes-thickeners/butters/  Theirs are essentially odorless…very non greasy, refined in Denmark (from ICSC).  Simply the cleanest butters you’ll ever come across.

Probably my greatest surprise in the last project was just learning the variability of ingredients from different suppliers!  You can take the same formula….made with lower quality ingredients, and have a greasy mess….Make it again…with better versions of the same ingredients…and have something amazing.

[Graillotion]

Pharma said:

You could use pure isoamyl laurate (Dermofeel sensolv) instead of EcoSilk. No odour at all and you can add it directly to the oil phase.

I agree completely.  The formula I just finished (with some help)… I was using Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate…and when I compared it to just straight up Isoamyl Laurate…there was an amazing difference….much lighter….no greasy after feel etc… IL by itself is remarkably better than the 90/10 blend!  If you live in the US…you can get small amounts of IL from Formulator Sample Shop.

A little surprised to see a blend of refined oils…with unrefined oils…usually one goes all in…refined or unrefined?
Just my experience with about 7 or 8 mac nut oils…. It will blow your mind…the difference between suppliers….and refined vs unrefined.  I will disagree with Pharma…and say…unrefined mac nut is only suitable for cooking!  Of all that I tested…the hands down winner was….From Floratech.  Super lite….quick absorbing….just amazing stuff…  Will never use another supplier on that one.
Pharma turned me on to cascading emollients… So I use IL, followed by ethyhexyl palmitate, followed by Caprylic Capric Triglycerides, followed by some lite oils, followed by slightly heavier oils…. Truly a Swiss marvel of sensories!
If you want to keep your claim oils for labeling….just knock them down to .5%…you know the drill.  As I am from Hawaii…and like to keep Kukui on the label…I just include it at .5%.

[Graillotion]

Pharma said:

I don’t know what makes its performance but my wife and I did try that lotion by @Graillotion and yes, it definitely is hydrating and caring (and I have to admit, my wife likes it even more than my own latest creation).

Thank You Pharma.

[Graillotion]

ggpetrov said:

Graillotion said:

I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

And how did you determine this?

Nothing scientific… I am just very sensitive and aware with what is happening to my skin.  I especially like to apply before bed…and evaluate my skin the following morning.  

When I change a single ingredient….even an adjustment up or down (.5%)…I can feel it like night and day.  I don’t think most people have that type of sensitivity.

[Graillotion]

Pharma said:

Dr_Sara said:

I have a bit more geographic  knowledge than you might imagine.

Wasn’t meant as an offence . I simply assumed that you’re from the states due to you mentioning studies in Philadelphia. 

Hey I take offense.    Not all Americans are idiots….just most of us!     

[Graillotion]

I use ROE in my oils when I receive them…to extend storage.  Then add the E when I produce the final product.  I come from an industry….where multiple modes of action….was always better.  

[Graillotion]

Well….I use it in three different formulas….for two completely different reasons….but in the formulas that I am using it as a humectant… I use it at 2% in one and 3% in the other.  However…I always blend humectants…so it is only partially caring the humectant load.
I am working with a genius chemist…and we are also using it as component of a fragrance fixative…along with a witches brew of other things.  

[Graillotion]

I see someone mentioned Jojoba esters…have you looked at this one.  I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

[Graillotion]

Not sure what country you live in… 
But this is the only small scale supplier I have found in the US.
I use betaine, along with others…and it is very easy to work with.

https://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/VegeMoist_Beet_Sugar_Extract_/894?category=29

[Graillotion]

I use it in lotion.  Takes a better than average emulsifier (165).  I make a 1% solution, and add it as 9% of the product.  As the above post suggests…I would guess, an emulsion.  (I am a novice.)

[Graillotion]

What country do you live in?

Are your sales less than $10,000.00/yr?

[Graillotion]

Sounds like you are trying to fix an existing batch…

But going forward….what about clear Jojoba?

[Graillotion]

Are you adding any antioxidants to your formula?

Any Rosemary oil extract?

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The folks on this forum are incredibly helpful.  If you are looking for ingredients suppliers….just ask… State what product you are looking for…and what country you live in….and you will more than likely get some good suggestions.

[Graillotion]

I have found out the hard way….even when comparing refined butters…from one supplier to another there are HUGE differences….from color, to scent, to how quickly they absorb (which was my biggest concern).  So at this point…I’ll put a ‘shout out’….to the company I felt…offered the best refined butters I came across in my journeys: ICSC…aka: International Cosmetics Science Centre, out of Denmark.  Head and shoulders above the rest.

[Graillotion]

Pharma said:

That you mention Arlacel 165 is a perfect coincidence :smiley: . Nice! @Graillotion: You reading this?

Yup….I’m reading.  I also trialed PBS 6….and can’t quite remember why I did not use it.    Would have to check my notes.

[Graillotion]

ggpetrov said:

I’ve been using the Gosulin IL from the Gracefruit.co.uk, but honestly it is not my favourite emollient. I’ve found it a bit heavy and slow absorbing, also the skin tends to shines, especially on the face. The strange thing is that it contain about 95% Isoamyl Laurate, but i’ve been using pure Isoamyl Laurate (Esteroil from Alexmocosmetic) and it was quite different. The pure Isoamyl Laurate is light and actually a great emollient, but the Gosulin IL is not.

I second this opinion….I was using both in sample formulations…and when I skin tested them alone, there was a marked difference, with the advantage going to the 100% IL.  Could not agree more!!!

[Graillotion]

Cafe33 said:

Yes colloidal silicon dioxide

Would this be considered …. leave on….skin safe?