[Graillotion]

When I had an oxidation issue a while back on a project.  My chemist pointed out that we needed to determine which phase the problem existed in.  The oil soluble antiOx’s like E and ROE are going to work in said phase.  So, if the problem is in the water phase, they will not render much assistance.  So, since my problem was in the water phase, we attacked it with sodium metabisulfite, and ascorbic acid (water soluble).  NAC is another one…that the natural lovers might like.  I think they like words like amino acids.  

[Graillotion]

Zen is rough and tumble, but if used above .5%, tends to great an undesired jiggly effect (jello).  Aristoflex AVC in considered by many, the most elegant.

[Graillotion]

Syl said:

@MattTheChemist, you are right, it is more than a circumstance. A LinkedIn search reveals a family business; Ivar Malmstrom is Chairman, and Susanne Malmstrom is VP of Active Concepts which owns Active Micro Technologies.

Brett Malmstrom is Sales Manager, and Maggie Ghanem is Manager at Sample Formulator Shop, both previously worked at Active Concepts. There is no connection on LinkedIn between the 2 companies, but the people are connected.
Active Concept has an interesting history.
http://https//www.morelaw.com/verdicts/case.asp?n=2:02-cv-03148-JAP-MCA&s=NJ&d=27527

https//www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2006/07/04/New-Jersey-cosmetic-companies-battle-over-trade-secrets#

I could not get your links to open.  I would really like to read those. 

Thank You.

[Graillotion]

Thank you for the response @PhilGeis.  It seems like they are relying heavily on Salicylic acid as part of their preservative.

I have not worked with SA…but seems to be an ingredient that if not handled just right…likes to precipitate out?  So, most of the users of leucidal don’t own a pH meter.  So, would it be a stretch to think…lots of times the SA will not even function (or will have precipitated out) due to the lack of creating a formula that will keep the SA happy?

Aloha.

Hehehe…. @Perry … can you make me a GIF from Mark’s last Q & A… Where he says…. not only don’t use it…but don’t buy ANYTHING from that company.  I think that would be absolutely priceless.

[Graillotion]

If just for yourself…you could shake vigorously before each use.  Think salad dressing.  

[Graillotion]

I help out on a mommy blogger forum…and sometimes they ask about these agencies…and my pat answer is:

I would never let the ignorant segment of society dictate how I formulate.

[Graillotion]

Here is the ingredients…on that extract…and ratio range.

[Graillotion]

esthetician922 said:

@ozgirl I bought the one off of Lotioncrafter and it says water soluble haha ugh. I can’t find an oil soluble. can I easily remedy this with another ingredient or should I search for a different calendula extract that has been extracted into glycerin?

The one I saw on their site was this INCI: INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Calendula Officinalis Extract

That sure the heck is not gonna work.

Oil and water…don’t mix! (Without a little chemistry…hehehe.)  

They glycerin is in there as the preservative…somewhere North of 40%.  And water soluble. 

[Graillotion]

Does the formula you are trying to copy…have squalane?

Calendula…that sounds like a formula within a formula.  Would need to know the components of that 5%.  (That could contain water or glycerin…requiring addition items to hold it together.)

Aloha.

[Graillotion]

Microformulation said:

Perry said:

And there is that whole exaggerated “alcohol is drying to skin” myth. 

Compounded by the fact that I have had numerous clients ask to avoid Cetyl Alcohol or other Fatty alcohols based upon, “Alcohol dries the skin.”

Haven’t we seen it all!   But I hear…. ignorance is bliss!

[Graillotion]

Thank you all!  That makes perfect sense.  So, it is simply about avoiding a tax.  Therefore, if using a small amount, Everclear is a logical substitute.  I like a little alcohol in formulation…kinda helps the D5 in that first impression arena.

Aloha.

[Graillotion]

I use small amounts of Everclear 190 as a solvent in a couple of extracts.  The combined totals never exceed 3% of a given formula. 

[Graillotion]

Anca_Formulator said:

@Graillotion Wowza! Thanks for the secret sauce recipe . Never would I have put all of those things together. What does TSGD aka GLDA stand for?

That is a natural chelate.

[Graillotion]

I’m kinda Coocoo for cocoa puffs…but here is the program I use…and my crap last for years and years.

E 9010
+
TSGD aka GLDA
+
Hydroxyacetophenone
+
4.8 pH (and 5.2 when using HydroVance)
+ 
A nice jag of glycols, especially Pentylene glycol, but also a splash of 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol.
+
phenethyl alcohol (as several of my products are creams).

As you can see….the hurdle approach is used…except for the creams…: where I drop the ball with packaging.  

So my big recommendation for you…would be lower your pH to 4.5 to 4.8, as you are almost to the safer zone. That will take you miles.  Never hurts to toss a kiss of TEC in there as well…just to keep everything minding their P’s and Q’s.

Aloha.

[Graillotion]

Please also list your packaging…as that comes into play with your ingredient choices.

[Graillotion]

Guessing that ‘soaps’ pretty bad….might try a version with the Olive M in the water phase…and if you are not opposed to dimethicone…add a little of that.

[Graillotion]

Have you tried a knockout experiment?

I’d probably start with the Silver.

OMG…you have the whole wish list in there!

…and lots of bug food…and no mention of pH.

I’d lose anything with the word Leucidal, and work with preservatives known to work.  Not sure if just phenethyl and EHG is enough for that formula.

It does take the percentages…for the group to really help.

[Graillotion]

ngarayeva001 said:

Great video. I like how she destroyed them. Very politely but yet brutally. Especially the cutting retinol molecule part

Yeah, had a total school yard feel to it…with the mention of the field his degrees are in, and the mention of his mother.   

[Graillotion]

MarkBroussard said:

@emma1985:

Form the emulsion and upon cool down incorporate a starch (Tapioca Starch works well) with a whisk at high speed.

@MarkBroussard, I have recently become fascinated with the starches on a different project.  I am always interested to know…when someone calls out a starch by name…why that one?  So… Why Tapioca?  And what if it is a tapioca that has been hydrophobically modified with polymethylsilsesquioxane, like the one sold my MC?

I had fallen in love with that starch…until I met: CORN PO4 PH B, which is my new love.  (INCI: distarch phosphate)

[Graillotion]

ari_418 said:

OMG, you are a lifesaver. The preservative system in the Formulator sample shop is leuicide- I’m not super familiar with it but I have doubts about “natural” preservatives vs conventional ones (bramble berry has Na Benzoate/K sorbate). What do you think?

Leucidal is completely worthless.  I assume your final product will be properly preserved?

[Graillotion]

Deodorant Additive | Bramble Berry

Saccharomyces Ferment (formulatorsampleshop.com)

I’d sure want more than that…in my deo!  

[Graillotion]

PhilGeis said:

I’d not get carried away with the efficacy claim

I use it as part of a multi-tiered program.

[Graillotion]

chemicalmatt said:

Thanks for the 411 @Graillotion. I will posit however that the triethyl citrate is doing the deodorizing heavy lifting in that blend. Sage smells nice though.

TEC is only in there at a solvent level…. And with a use rate of .5%….you will never notice the TEC… I add 5% TEC on top of the decalact. 🙂

[Graillotion]

…Meaning….if it is a water-soluble problem, throwing oil soluble solutions at it won’t be prudent, and visa versa.

…And if you have no idea…then toss one water soluble, and one oil soluble solution at it….or do a knock-out with different anti-ox’s…and it will help you find the culprit.

[Graillotion]

I may live in the world’s most humid climate.  My solution…. buy SMALL AMOUNTS…and use the desiccant paks.

Aloha