[gordof]

hi 

if you use 0.3% Carbomer you Propoply will not need any Xanthan gum in the formulation (of course depending on the viscosity you want to get). it will increase the stickiness of the Product.

you although need a Neutralization agent For the Carbomer.

depending on the Carbomer you are using you need to get the PH of the water phase to 7 and above so that the thickening effect occurs otherwise it will not help with Viscosity build-up. Most Carbomers can be neutralized with NaOH or TEA ask your supplier what works best for your type as well as the optimum ph range.

after Nutraliziation of the Carbomer, you can adjust ph back to what you need it to be. 

if you like you can have a look at how to do it and what you can get from it on a guidance formulation. (please be aware that there are several methods how to incorporate carbomer into your formulation and it differs by type so its just one way)

F-0161(EU) 98% Natural Do-It-Yourself Night Serum (ulprospector.com)
hope that helps 

Tobias  

[gordof]

hi sorry did not see that you replayed. 

Tensieds are Surfactants just another name used in Switzerland/ Germany for it. 

so I just wanted to say you need to Pre solubilize the Perfume in your Surfactants.

Sometimes there can be separation if you add it afterward or your product will sometimes not get clear. 

[gordof]

Hi There 

The answer is a little Shaky. Overall there is no Test Procedure for general Cosmetic Products. But there are several tests that are Performed to Determine if the product, tested under special circumstances, is biologically degradable.
Singel Raw material Testing is possible depending on the claim I would say but it is very expensive. 

the OECD 301D is originally designed for Volotail Chemical Substances. Depends on your Cosmetic Formulation if it is a test you want to go for.

As I said for a Cosmetic Product, there is no standard test to perform (sadly). Most Companys will Performe the OECD 302B at least in Europe because it will Determine the Aerobe Biological Degradability and you Propoply will get the best results for Emulsions with that. 

If you have a Shampoo or Wash Product like a cleanser you can Perform the Standadiest Test for the Biological degradability of Surfactants. not sure about the Number but a Test institute that performs the other test will probably know.

In the end, your Customer can communicate that the Product is Readily bio-degradable tested with test method XXX.

Hope that helps.

Tobias

[gordof]

hi 

There are some UV campers out there but if you really wanna test the Sun Stability of your Product in your Packaging you need a full wavelength of sunlight. I did several UV Champer Testings and they are just a hint if your Product is problematic or not but they will not show 60 % of the problems that can occur in real sunlight over a longer time. Cosmetic Products contain a lot of different Ingreadienst and every one of them can respond to different types of wavelengths. 

You can get a Sun Light imitating light that will give you a very broad spectrum if you want to be more exact about the amount and time your product is exposed to the light. I am not sure if all the UV will be in then 

in Our lab test it is normally just behind a window for 3 to 6 months depending on the season we start the test. Autem and Winter longer than spring and summer due to less direct sun in winter. 

[gordof]

Did you try that already ? can you solubilize all phenoxyethanol in your water phase? normally the biggest part will be on top if you don’t have any Thickeners or emulsifiers present to get it in the system. If you have tried and it works I would say 0,6 -0,7 % should be enough due to the fact that you have salicylic acid which will help with conservation as well as a cationic. 

I would recommend you to use something like Na-Benzoate K-Sorbate as a conservation system. it is much more available for the water phase and therefore more efficient in that kind of formulation from my experience. 

0,3 % Na Benzoate 0.2% Kaliumsorbate would do the trick with 1 % salicylic acid I would guess. 

[gordof]

for me still, looks like a phase switch have you tried testing O/W and W/O properties if both are the same or different? 

[gordof]

I would say there is no influence on foaming and cleaning properties but It can lead to instability of the perfume in your Shampoo if you add at last and not pre solubilize it in the Tensieds from my experience.

[gordof]

What size ? way Homogenizer?  SLS and SLES will make a lot of air entrapment with Homogenizers. 

[gordof]

hi There

are both stable creams or is one Brocken? 

Do you Still have samples of both outcomes of your Productions? 

If so and they both are stable, have you Tried if one of them is maybe oil and water and the other one is water in oil? 

Sometimes if you are right on the edge of a Turning point with the formulation the amount of water that evaporates during heating is enough to switch the system and give you another Formulation. 

You can test it with a Water-soluble colorant just solve it in Water at around 0,5 % and at it to both formulations just on the top without stirring. If the Colorant stays at the top you have water in oil formulation if it dissolves over time ( maybe one night or two) you have an O/W emulsion there. 
Or fast but not as scientific put some of the Cream on the hand if you can scrub it off with water you have an O/w if you can not and the water is peeling off your skin like a lotus effect you have a W/O emulsion. 

[gordof]

you could Try Polyurethan they are delivered from Covestro in Cosmetic Qualitys for different Producttyps

[gordof]

hi there 

it is often a Problem with W/O emulsions that they are very much problematic with steering especially while cooling there are two points you need to look at if you Homogenize again after it is cool down dose the viscosity go up again? 
if yes then properly you have a problem with getting bigger droplets while stieren and viscosity are dependent on droplet size.

The second possibility would be to look if you get a Better Viscosity if you stop Steering at a Higher temperature so that the Wax Crystals have time to form bigger and Better Structures in your system that are hard. 

Problematic is the filling Process later on you need to be Shure to not add too much energy then

[gordof]

hi there 

the easiest way to go about this contact the manufacturer of your colorants and ask them for basic formulations that you can get a good impression of the necessary amounts and the different shades you can create with them it is not so easy to just tell you a combination because it heavily depends on the quality of the colorants and the shades you have of them. 

[gordof]

to thicken an oil you need either a Polymer which is oil soluble or you need a Wax / Butter that is compatible with your main oil and does not recrystallize visible in it. in your case, i would say you can use Vaseline for example or high viscose paraffin oil depends on the viscosity you wanna go for.

I would recommend using Polyamide-8 as polymers, tradenames for example are OleoCraft™ there are different types out there and you can ask the supplier for advice on which one to use for your product to get the best performance. they need to be usable with your main oil so ask them Realy it can go wrong otherwise. but you can then get from low to high viscose oils “gel”

[gordof]

hi

you need to be a little more specific.
What kind of issue do you encounter.
What ingredients are you using in which ratios?
What do you mean by silicon emulsion? silicon Emulsifier, Silicon oil phase, or just a little silicon oil besides other oil ingredients?

Otherwise, it will be difficult to help you with your problem.

[gordof]

hi, you could change the Tensied formulation slightly. I am not sure which texapon you are using so I am not sure of your main Tensied. 

But you could add some Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate it will especially boost fine foam and is very nice in touch. switching out 2,5% of the Texapon to the Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate will do wonders I would guess.

it can although be beneficial if you add a complexing agent to the formulation sometimes if the water is very hard and there are many Ca and Mg Ions there it can lead to low foam as well. if you add a complexing agent that can help with that. Classically you would use EDTA

Or if you are not using NLES you could add some of that it is not the gentlest But the Foaming is very much the best you can get from the Cost/amount ratio.

[gordof]

it is not Necessary to De Ionize distilled water. If it is Destilated water it already is free of all Minerals etc. Bacterias should although be killed to the fact that the water was boiled to distillate it.

You can put it through a Filter in your Company if you find some Bacteria in it but overall it is the best Producing water you can get from my point of view. 

[gordof]

maybe it’s not because of the Electrical discharge but because of the abrasion effect that the company will accept sugar scrubs but not salt ones? 

as far as I know, it is harder than sugar because of the crystal structure. Steel and Salt have nearly the same Hardness on the Mohs hardness scale (normal steel around 2, Salt between 2 and 2,5) therefore if you are not using special Steel which is made harder you will scrub away your Production vessel / Homogenizer / Sierring peddles and so on. which can be very expensive in the long run

[gordof]

hi, I am not a dermatologist but as far as I know, 5 % is safe for Deeper layers of the skin at 10-15 % you will get into the deeper layers of the skin. 

it not necessarily has a bad effect but it has an effect on deeper layers. especially for a leaf on. 

I would guess that 30 % for 10 min does send feel very nice on the skin. not sure if that is beneficial for Skin Thickness and even skin tone.

I would recommend asking your supplier of the Raw material he can probably tell you about maximum concentrations for leave-on and Rinsof without harming the skin.  

Tobias

[gordof]

Did you use other ingredients than milk and water for the lotion? Maybe the Darkening has nothing to do with the milk you added and more with another ingredient. Can you share your ingredients list?  i see no reason way milk should darken over time. 

[gordof]

hi . 

The first question that came to my mind way did you use that high amount of Chlorhexidine Gluconate ? 4 % is way too much and it is not allowed in that high concentrations in Cosmetic Products ( at least in Europe maximum concentration is 0,3 % not sure if there is any other rule for Rinse of) 

I guess the Alkyl Polyglucoside would work but not shure if that is even importanted. 

Can you discripe what your goal is ? 

[gordof]

that would greatly depend on the goal you have. Can you describe what kind of product you wanna make? 

Is it cream, lotion, a cleanser, a body wash Shampoo?  

[gordof]

without knowing it for sure my instinct would say SLES is more aggressive. but the concentration is very low so I don’t think there will be a difference if the target group is not completely sensitive. 

IF you wanna make a Cream I would look for alternatives because both are very foamy and that would lead to bubble build-up on the skin. 

[gordof]

hi 

you will always have some Migration with this kind of conservator. it is not important due to the fact that the emulsions oil and water phase are always in the balance of the materials it is normal and nothing to worry about. 

0.25 % Methylparabaen is the maximum Solubility in the water phase but you normally use 0.2-0.1% in the Product in combination with 0.1-0.05% Propylparaben. 

The two Phases of the Emulsion will be in contact and therefore The paraben will be present in the oil as well as in the Water phase “used MEthylparaben in the water phase will be compensated from the oil phase until it is in balance. 

It is beneficial to solve it in the water phase due to the higher concentration at the beginning at the water phase all bacterial will be eliminated.

hope that helps

[gordof]

hi there 

For a normal Air Freshener, 10 % Perfum is way too much. if scent sensation is not good enough with lower concentrations you should find a better spray nozzle that distributes the product finer to the air so that it will not separate so fast from the air (Aptar has something in the portfolio for that). normally I would say perfume for an air Freshener is between 1-3 % more is a lot.

pure Isopropyl is possible but not necessary if you dissolve your perfume in isopropyl alcohol you can start adding water in small portions until it gets foggy. then choose 5 % less water and you will be mostly fine and still able to add some water, which is more Price-efficient. 

although you may encounter issues with labeling if you use that big amount of Iso you will be flammable and you need to label that which can be difficult because there is much non-flammable Air Freshener in the market at least as long as you are not in an Aerosol can.

hope that helps

[gordof]

I would say conservation is ok but in the end, you must try it in a Test if it is sufficient or not. 

i personally would use in a formulation like that a conservation of Natrium Benzoate 0.5 % and Kaliumsorbat 0,3 % with a ph of 4.5-5.5 

but yours is working good as well I would say.