[EVchem]

@scelce noooo 1%  means “1 part for every 100 parts”. 1% stays 1% no matter what batch size, it doesn’t become 20% when you scale up. That’s the beauty of percents!

For a 100 gram scale, 1% of 100 is 1.
For a 2,000g scale, there are 20 groups of 100 (20*100=2000), so you multiply by 20. 1% of 2,000 is 20.

[EVchem]

@chemicalmatt what’s your source on that?

[EVchem]

I haven’t used it specifically for emulsifying, but technically it could work.. I would also expect it to foam unless the oils or silicones in your formula overwhelm it. There’s probably better options if you aren’t trying to make some kind of cleanser

[EVchem]

@Glad2be I recently requested info on Sucragel, here’s the link I was sent https://alchemy-ingredients.com/videos (probably the same videos mentioned above). 

Although now I’m a little concerned, I was also hoping to make an oily gel.

[EVchem]

There are so many things to say  here but I’ll limit myself so I don’t overwhelm you

1. Shampoo shouldn’t really have any oils, they should be  basically water+preservative+surfactants because the goal is to cleanse and remove oils.

2. What do you mean by ‘actually works’? There are plenty of shampoos that I can promise you will clean your hair, but you sound like you have a specific goal in mind.

3. Since you are just starting out, you should really take a look throughout Perry’s site, he’s got great information on starter formulas. Personally I think starting by trying to replicate an established formula will be a better stepping stone than trying to come up with a formula on your own.
https://chemistscorner.com/articles/
https://chemistscorner.com/where-to-find-free-cosmetic-formulas/

4. When you do start working on more formulas, you’re gonna have to post ingredients and at least some range of percents(w/w % is typical) or it will be hard for people to help you.  All the questions you asked will depend on what you already have added and how much. Reading + thoughtful experimentation  will help you grow much faster and you’ll be able to ask  ‘better’ questions 

Articles

[EVchem]

also the 2.5 g ‘scent’  could be causing issues with thickening, try without the scent. Fragrances can cause viscosity issues

[EVchem]

What percent active are your surfactants? SLES is commonly sold at 70%, 30%..

[EVchem]

doesn’t the article deal with the copper oxide into textiles though, not cosmetics

This manuscript reviews clinical studies that show that the use of textile consumer and medical device products

[EVchem]

Oh my academic chemistry knowledge is not the best but here’s my thoughts:
While it might technically have the potential to be a chelator (the unpaired electrons on the nitrogen in the amide groups, the ketone oxygens), stereochemistry will also play a role here. I’m not sure if the hyaluronic acid would be able to contort in a way to bind to one metal ion the way that other smaller chelators can. 

[EVchem]

Antioxidants don’t absolutely prevent oxidation, and light also promotes oxidation

[EVchem]

The easiest way to learn is to try and make that formula.

[EVchem]

I would suggest looking at some of grant industries  products, they have several products that have water and silicones blended together (http://www.grantinc.com/products/silicone-elastomers/gransil-siw-elastomer-gels/). It seems like they go route three and use decyl glucoside.

So maybe that can give you an idea of how to move forward, though I’m still not sure what your end product application is. 

[EVchem]

The scent in Vicks comes from the menthol,  not a fragrance. The menthol also acts as a cooling agent/ analgesic. 

[EVchem]

Why did you want to add the propylene glycol? 

[EVchem]

I imagine the sepiplus would work, I have that and the tetrahexadecyl, I can let you know if I see any issues in a very simple formula, but not sure how that would compare against what you’re doing

[EVchem]

I have used this in the blend from DSM (Pentavitin) at 1% or less in formulations. In the blended form it is easy to use and I don’t see any issues since it is at low levels. The suppliers max recommended use of the blend is 5%, and the supplier says about 50% of the blend is the isomerate.  If you have an account on UL prospector you’ll be able to see formulations and the full datasheet

[EVchem]

Slightly tangent question: but when putting  together the LOI, do you list the aloe as if it is 20%, or by the amount of concentrate that you added? 

[EVchem]

I have no familiarity with that thickener, but I’ve used tetrahexadecyl ascorbate before. When you say “worked pretty well before”, you’re talking about the cream on it’s own right?
 The thickener I’ve used with tetrahexadceyl ascorbate is: Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Trideceth-6. I’m trying to get away from that now because the mineral oil is no longer customer-friendly.  What alternative thickeners are you thinking of trying?

[EVchem]

no not necessarily. I meant that in steam distillation you are collecting a lot of small molecule/volatile components and those are usually potential irritants.

Hydrosol is defined as water distillation, but I’ve seen alcohol used in hydrosols to help carry over some less hydrophilic components, or it could be used in high amounts to preserve

[EVchem]

I’m not a regulatory expert (definitely can’t speak to EU regulations), but dyes are cosmetics and don’t need FDA approval  or registration. The colors used in the dyes do need batch certification (unless they are coal tar derived), and from what I see on the Refectocil website they are using approved colorants.

[EVchem]

So your pH is really staying within a 0.5 range for the entire 3 months, to me that’s acceptable for an air freshener. Do you notice any scent change?

If you put together specifications for your formula that pH can be given as the range you saw throughout testing. 

[EVchem]

I don’t think a suppository will be classified as a cosmetic, more likely a medical device like lube is (I’m assuming you’re in US). I can’t of an example of a cosmetic that is not for external use only.
  
This has been talked about before as well
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/3324/vaginal-suppositories-need-formulation-manufacturing-contacts

[EVchem]

Organic in the chemistry world does not have to do with the USDA certification of organic agricultural products, which is what I think you are interested in.  
Additionally I see your products are masks, and clays are not organic in any sense of the word. 

Do you plan to keep making the product yourself, and you are looking for a distributor? Do you want to contract out the full manufacturing process? How many units do you plan to make? These are all questions you’ll have to answer to get some more direction.

[EVchem]

I’m curious why no one has mentioned the 15% Cucumber Hydrosol. Does it have any alcohol in it? If it’s steam distilled I might suspect it even more.

Anecdotally, I recently made a product with 5% Cucumber hydrosol and while it doesn’t seem to bother my skin, one of  my testers said it reddened hers.

[EVchem]

Sea buckthorn berry oil is red, but you could also use sea buckthorn seed oil which is yellow in color. From what I’ve seen it is still high in the omega 3 and 6.