[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Anti-Maladours I believe is what you are after.

If you want some herb suggestions to rid odour here are some:

Rosemary, Oregano, coriander, rosewood, linalool, lemongrass, for savoury is carvacrol and cinnamon bark.

There are some marine ferments, yeast derived with enzymes that provide bioconversion of a wide range of malodorous substances.

Essential oils include vanillin, menthol, macrocyclic lactones, peppermint, iso-eugenol, even lichen.

One I just got in called saccharomyces ferment (enzymes).

Hope this helps! Cheers Catherine

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

If you are trying to keep to environmental regulations and go natural you can use ethanol that is produced from grains and is just called Bio-ethanol.

Why do you only want to use ethanol as your only preservative. If you have to use up to 20% as Perry suggested, then this would change the viscosity, have you tried it out yet.

Please let us know how you go? Cheers Catherine

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Clays like Kaolin or Bentonite, white diatomaceous earths, or you could use Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide. All of these will add to opacity.

Hope this helps. Cheers Catherine

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

@Abdullah my suggestions are just for experimentation i.e. take out a sample and try these suggestions, not to put them into the whole batch.

I have used 1 to 1.5% phytate and up to 0.5 EDTA due to packaging issues with iron. However, as I said the colour that mine usually presented were various browns.

Geoguard is good one to try.

I suggest changing the pH as colour is sensitive to pH as you would know. Maybe just up 1.5 to 6.5.

Citrus Essential Oils like Bergamot contain compounds called Bergaptenes and these can play havoc within formulas turning them green even as they are very photo sensitive and if the color changes so dramatically can mean toxicity.

So basically I am suggesting little tests taking out 50mL/test and adding my suggestions and see what you get and compare. Testing small amounts is what the formulator should be doing if you have a lot of variables and you have no idea where the problem is coming from.

Furthermore, I would also do a microbial test to be sure as well. If you are worried about irritation, then this is something you need to spend time on.

When you do these tests also dilute over various ratios. Adding water, then try out EDTA + Geoguard? you may have success and you have just added water and ingredients you already have in stock! Get what I mean?

Hope this helps and I have not confused you more. Just trying to help!! Have a good one.

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

If you want a polysorbate I thought poly-20 plus some PEG 40 castor oil. If you want to go natural you could try Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (CCG)?

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

What you just showed us is pretty clear or translucent, it may become clearer if you leave overnight.

One of the better gel makers I have tried for clarity is EMT-10 by sepinov.

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

I would not throw the whole lot away, especially if it is a preservative, chelating and pH issue. Change your preservative to a well known one like Euxyl 9010, add 0.3% EDTA, not phytate and raise the pH.

Iron oxide usually gives you a browny orange, not totally red. However, together with orange EO you will get more of a red colour.

Does the orange EO have bergaptenes? what quality is it? maybe you need a fixative for the volatile plus a bottom note to balance out.

Hope this helps

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

1501 Hi you can use perfume fixatives like Glucam P 20, also use bottom notes like Sandal wood & resins. 

Good luck Catherine Pratt

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Watch your methodology Catherine Pratt

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Sounds good!!! Happy Formulating cheers Dr Pratt

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Probably cyclomethicone!!

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

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[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Yes that’s Seppimax Zen or EMT-10. If you want to go natural & get the same effect then use siligel or Lecigel

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

I would just start with Salicylic Acid & a fruit AHA. You could put these into clay masks which are popular & by mixing it into a clay mask you wouldn’t be so worried about them burning your face off!! 

I would play with the AHA’s first then move onto retinol a whole other concern!!
good luck! 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Why don’t you try Siligel or Seppimax zen which is the same as the carbomer but preneutralised! 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

What was the formula or just the ingredients you used?? 

That isethionate would be fine! It’s usually what you mix it with & pH that turn it opaque or white!! 

Did you use any aloe Vera? 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

It sounds like you were trying to use a silicone like material with quick absorbance & soft cushion feel. You could try better ones like Cetiol Cc or cetiol coco Caprylate. Or if you wanted to go natural you can use a natural silicone alternative like lexfeel natural-Hexyl Undecylenate or ISO amyl laureate 
just a few suggestions 
good luck 
best Cath 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

You could also use a buffer like Sodium Citrate & Ascorbic acid to aid stability. However, if the pH is fluctuating then you may want to change color it becomes painful. Good Luck!
best Catherine 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

As far as I know, organic certifications will not allow polysorbates, there are other solubilises you can use that are natural Good luck
Catherine

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

No you can weigh it as well, just because it is a liquid doesn’t mean it cannot be weighed.

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

To be honest I don’t just use essential oils to preserve products. If you want an organic preservative there is one called Leucidal which is basically fermented radishes nothing scary!! Check it out!!
good luck!!

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

You can add Tribehenin to combat syneresis 

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Yes pharma I am thinking the plant saponins being natural surfactants will boost preservation?! Also eucalyptus oil?!

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

Also I prefer ethanol all the way!

[Dr Catherine Pratt]

As said what are the specifications of the blue? & your pH! WHO also states no colour but that’s up to you. Good luck!