David08848
Forum Replies Created
-
Thanks again for all your replies. This, at least, affirms what I have been thinking and hearing about the fragrances available to those of us who purchase either from resellers or those who market to the homecrafters and even some professional fragrance companies. I understand all too well about the importance of testing out a fragrance and what happens if you don’t! Finding a fragrance company to work with isn’t always easy and I am open to any suggestions that anyone might have! Thanks again for your help!
-
This issue has still been a problem for me and I have had to go back and re-scent almost all of my stock because the shaving customers complain that they can’t smell any scent whatsoever! Fragrance oils seem to be more of a problem than Essential oils and I do want to be careful with certain Essential oils so I have adjusted the amounts of fragrance in varying rates. Still, I am at about 2x the rate Perry suggested back in 2015! Is it just a combination of things mentioned above or is it something else? I feel like I am banging my head against a wall!
-
Just to follow up with one point, the “advice” of using sodium lactate below 130 degrees Fahrenheit came from a soapmakers point of view and that would be so that the soapmaker doesn’t risk burning themselves at higher temperatures. In this instance the temperature has to be higher than 130 because of the meltpoints of the ingredients in the oil phase. Now you know why I started to come to cosmetic chemists boards so many years ago! I got better and more accurate information here!
Thank You! -
So, as a follow-up, I managed to formulate my shaving soap, found the proper temps and techniques to use to produce this product and successfully created a great shaving soap and went into production! I try to think as a cosmetic chemist which is why I try to avoid products or techniques normally used by soapmakers. Sodium Lactate was indeed what I needed to use to create this product although it is often used by some soapmakers to produce a harder bar which is why I was trying to avoid it. I just wanted to say “Thank You” to Perry and you all for your input and support! I appreciate it!
-
The first thing I would do is to get ingredients lists for all of the products you mentioned and see what they are using to make the kind of product that you wish to make. You can also look online for sample formulations for this type of product and see what you can find!
-
It would be best if you gave us a list of your ingredients for one of the other more experienced cosmetic chemists here to help you to determine which ingredient might need to be increased (or decreased). You don’t have to give percentages if you’re not comfortable doing that but you haven’t given enough information for anyone here to assist you.
-
It all depends on your ingredients, the temperature you heat them to, the temperature of the room… etc. The only way you’re going to know is to try it and see!
-
Wow Guys! Thank you so much! I’ll give it a look and watch the video again and see how I make out! If I don’t succeed (and I try again) I’ll take you up on your offer, Mark!
-
Excel and I don’t always see eye to eye! I think I need a course in Excel and maybe we can become friends! Thanks, as always, Belassi! You ‘da man!
-
I have been advised by several cosmetic chemists that using TEA with Stearic Acid with the rate of one part TEA to two parts Stearic will be enough to “saponify” part of the Stearic Acid with the TEA but leave some Stearic Acid left over to add to the “creaminess” of the product.
-
Using the correct SAP values for your oil or fatty acid as well as allowing a certain percentage of your oil phase to remain unsaponified should prevent this from happening. Getting the correct SAP value from your supplier is the best thing you can do under these circumstances and using that in your calculations is most wise.
-
I have always used distilled and will always use distilled in cold process soap, shaving cream and shaving soap! You should see me walking out of Walmart with a basket filled with 25 gallon bottles!… I just tell people I’m REALLY THIRSTY!
-
Soaps made with sodium hydroxide do not have the solubility needed to make a liquid soap. Soaps make with Potassium Hydroxide, TEA and some other bases would be much more appropriate for this purpose. You could combine and press your scraps with machinery to create soap bars with it though!
-
I learned many years ago to stop using the techniques found on online soapmaking message boards by people who had no credentials, had not studied the cosmetic chemistry involved and who did not work with formulations based on 100%. I chose my own route involving reading old soapmaking books from the 18 and 1900’s by people who had the proper credentials and demonstrated that with facts based on the chemistry involved in making soap. What you are asking about simply cannot be done! Soap made with oils and or fatty acids will have a pH in the range of 9-10. Trying to lower it will take the ability of the high pH substance (alkaline) and reduce it making it less effective in saponifying all of the the oils or fatty acids involved. That might lower the pH slightly but not always measurably and other than choosing to leave some of the oils or fatty acids unsaponified which won’t make a measurable change there is no way to do what you are trying to accomplish without making changes to your ingredients such as adding surfactants.
The natural pH of soap is inappropriate for use on hair. Although it may be able to clean the hair it reeks havoc with the hair’s structure and can cause damage to the hair. Surfactants combined with fatty acids may be a better option and are used in the industry for such a purpose but really are not the what you are seeking to do. Many of the people here have the knowledge about cosmetic chemistry as well as the experience, background and credentials and should be treated with respect. I may have started out as a “soap maker” but for quite a while have been fortunate to be able to learn from many of the people here and ask their advice and pose questions. I am grateful for their replies and trust their observations even when it might be about someone who appears to have the right “street creds” but in their observation does not. I trust what they say and their observations over time have proven them to be quite trustworthy. I may not be a “cosmetic chemist” but I try and take that approach with every project I work on and I have to say because of their help they have been quite successful projects! I will keep doing what I always have done and that is to READ, ASK QUESTIONS, LISTEN and RESEARCH and keep doing this all over again until I get my answers!
-
Belassi!
Thanks, that’s good to know!
-
Belassi,
Are you specifically referring to the Iselux Ultra Mild as needing a “high foaming supplement”? I certainly understand about the available sizes and painfully aware of the “upcharges”! Although I would be buying a 55 lb. pail I don’t need those “upcharges” from a company such as Innospec when I have a local supplier who is kind enough to just bring them to me with no shipping charges! I just have to work within the companies offerings so sometimes that can be limiting. I’m fortunate to be in New Jersey where there are many chemical companies within driving distance so I could even pick them up myself. This is why I prefer to formulate something myself and not have to buy a base from one company!
-
Mark, I appreciate your suggestions. Although, I do try to stay away from bases as you are locked into buying them from that supplier but it does include several of the surfactants I wish to use. I could try and create something similar myself…
I did like the sound of Oramix CG110 and Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside and it was available from at least one reseller online. Also, it touts itself as being “green” which is a good selling point! I’m open to any other suggestions you may have! They are appreciated!
-
Sorry, Robert! I just found this. I must have missed it because it was four months after my last post…
As you can tell, I’m back at trying to formulate the body wash and am doing my research as I always do! Thanks for the replies everyone!
Belassi, thanks again for the suggestion. I would like something that is a soluble emollient and it is available from resellers, which is good in the beginning of a new project. If you are anyone else has any other suggestions, I am open to hearing them! Thanks!
-
Sounds like I’m barkin’ up the wrong bush with PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oils! I’ll check some more sources to see where I can find some PEG-7 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides … unless you have another suggestion?
Thanks so much!
-
It was suggested to me by a chemical company with whom I do business. They didn’t know I already have some!
I did see PEG-7 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides listed in one of my many searches and wondered about that…. but after doing a search, I am not finding it being sold by any of the companies I do business with or any online resellers. What do you think about PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate? What about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?Thanks for your input!
-
Back again!
What would be a good thing to add to help incorporate Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides into a Body Wash made with Isethionates, Taurates, CAPB, Crothix, Polyquat-7?
Thanks for any help you may be able to provide!
-
Funny, I use Oleic Acid by the gallon and have never noticed an off-scent with that!
-
Belassi, would you describe the odor is a “fatty” kind of smell?
-
Thanks, Belassi! I appreciate your reply!
-
And that would mean that it doesn’t contain glycerin? The sources I found for soap were those commercially made that saponified first, then combined and pressed into bars and the fatty acids would have been added during that last procedure. I see what you’re saying if it were used in cold-processed soap and didn’t smell very good! However, it is used in shaving creams that are commercially made and in the percentage used the fragrance must cover that smell…