

chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Contradicting my amigo Belassi here: working in a setting that exposes you to direct product application with final customers may be an invaluable experience when you get down to formulating products for the high-end skin care market. E.g. I’ve never used or seen azelaic acid 15% applied to a patient-consumer, I just studied it and formulated. I’d have a better understanding of its melanocyte inhibitor mechanism if I’d witnessed the application and actual final results.
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 23, 2020 at 5:05 pm in reply to: Can you get around the Benzyl Alcohol smell?Nope
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 23, 2020 at 5:04 pm in reply to: What is the difference between LABSA and LASLAS is the (sodium) salt of LABSA. This ionization makes it more water soluble. The color is related to the activity level and processing grade. Dilute it and see what happens. IF you are using it in laundry, dishwash, HI&I cleaners, etc. does the final color really matter? Likely not.
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Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) is milder to skin & eyes than Sodium C14-16 a-olefin sulfonate (AOS), foams richer, builds slightly easier w/chelants, NaCl, amphoterics; and is generally less expensive. OAS does have better detergency, better hydrotrope than SLES and it builds with relative ease compared to other non-SLS anionics. It was mainly used in hand soaps until “sulfate-free” craze made it ubiquitous.
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Proteins (or amino acid arrays as Perry points out) do have electrostatic affinity with hair keratin and are useful in hair care. Also as Perry points out, different proteins carry different arrays. therefore have less/more keratin affinities. For veggies, soy and wheat hold on the best. The earliest hair styling gels (pre-PVP) used gelatin to hold the hair shape. Gelatin is a hydrolyzed animal protein, not halal either. Ironically, the most substantive protein of all is hydrolyzed collagen (animal) but most folks don’t use it anymore since it is derived from critters. Too bad, it works really well at interstitial cuticle strengthening and gloss finish. Quinoa doesn’t squeal when you kill it though.
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 23, 2020 at 2:10 pm in reply to: Determining how much %w/w of 96,25% ethanol is needed for an 80% v/v solutionYou may avail this advice, then go forth and sanitize:
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/antimicrobial/US-FDA-Hand-Sanitizer-Solutions-Explained-570121061.html -
Could be a shear issue (too much or too little) or heating on transfer (was Tygon hose used?) or something else. Without more formula details I could only speculate. I will say that virtually all inverse-phase emulsions are entropically unstable and will separate eventually, but not THAT fast.
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First, do not use bicarbonate to adjust pH in the acid range because you will elute CO2 and end up with a fizzy product. That might be cool but it won’t help your buffering problem. Read up on buffers and the common ion effect. Phosphate, citrate, maleate, choose your method. BTW, sodium hydroxide + citric acid makes sodium citrate. Funny how folks admire sodium citrate but get annoyed with NaOH. Go figure.
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The original McCoy was Arlacel 165 from Atlas > ICI > Croda. That was 2:1 GMS:PEG-100 Stearate. All the rest are based on that. Like Pharma said if your supplier atates a HLBvalue you can back-calculate and et the ration too.
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 19, 2020 at 4:50 pm in reply to: NEED THICKENER FOR CATIONIC SURFACTANT (BKC FLOOR CLEANER)Hydroxyethylcellulose
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 19, 2020 at 4:48 pm in reply to: Best way to sanitize bottles, caps, beakers etcYou’ll be fine. Just let them dry in a clean area. Like EV sez, I never saw the need to sanitize packaging unless QA/QC spots an adulterant in there.
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 19, 2020 at 4:47 pm in reply to: Inactivation of preservatives by surfactants?You should be OK with the ethanol in there, but why do you need the surfactant anyway? I see no need for it.
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chemicalmatt
MemberJune 17, 2020 at 10:02 pm in reply to: How to avoid precipitation of colloidal oatmeal in shower oil?Colloidal oat is more hydrotropic than lipotropic. It does not want to be there; you have a suspension not a solution. Ever hear of oat oil? The lipid fraction of oats. That will work - expensive though. You may also add a lipophilic colloid with yield value such as silica to your oil to stabilize the suspension, then add the surfactant, oatmeal. Might be ugly though.
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Burn some and find out.
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Lemme’ guess here: FD&C Blue #1? Ext. Violet #2? The usual suspects. Find a hindered amine to add or go with Belassi’s simpler advice.
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Here’s an “old school trick” to alleviate wax re-crystallization on cooling: add a little lecithin to this. Especially works with shea, coconut butters, but also bees, micro waxes. There: thousands of dollars of free consulting and all I get is the Thanks of a Grateful Nation.
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Little benefit (softening) to skin once acidified to the amine salt, but it makes one helluva emulsifier especially for silicones.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMay 20, 2020 at 9:05 pm in reply to: Ideas to avoid alcohol gel sticky afterfeel on hands?Better yet, DELETE the glycerin completely and add prop glycol or (better) butylene glycol at 1.0%. The resin used is not a big factor, though xanthan is the stickiest.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMay 20, 2020 at 9:01 pm in reply to: Emulsifying cleansing balm is leaving a white, waxy residueThat is a LOT of ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, my friend. The two are chemically brothers, BTW. Ditch the Ceteareth-25 since your hopes appear to be dashed. You got plenty of nonionic surfactant in there already.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMay 20, 2020 at 8:55 pm in reply to: Machine for filling very thick gel/wax (COLD PROCESS)Look into the aftermarket for a Simplex single-piston mechanical cam drive (not air drive) filler. Lots of them out there in North America. And, heed Fekher’s advice: go to hot-fill.
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What he said…and no carbomers are compatible with any cationics, ever, same as for all acrylates and their copolymers. Also, none are electrolyte tolerant no matter what the manufacturer’s state, even with proteins. A common mistake repeated in this forum: “why does my Carbopol crash when I add XXX?” Check the charge:mass ratio and character of XXX. I am wondering why the HPMC is in there at the same time. Whaasup with that?
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Rosemary oleoresin works like a charm.
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chemicalmatt
MemberMay 20, 2020 at 8:32 pm in reply to: The low down on soaping…the how’s and why’s (in lotion).When using stearates, oleates, lactylates, saponified acids, esters, just add cetyl alcohol @ 1- 2% to curb skin soaping. Dimethicone certainly helps too. Simethicone even better.
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Curious: where and how does Epsom Salt detract insects? Likewise, menthol? Camphor I know works, but menthol? No worry about exothermic reactions here either.
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We typically do not give formulas away here in this forum, but to send you on the right track: begin with water, add Na4 EDTA, then sodium hydroxide 50%, then add dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid 95% at a ratio of 3.8:1 with the caustic soda soln. From there you are on your own. And…oh yeah…be sure to wear PPE.