Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulsifying cleansing balm is leaving a white, waxy residue

  • Emulsifying cleansing balm is leaving a white, waxy residue

    Posted by DeedeeUkulele on May 17, 2020 at 1:14 am

    Unlike commercial cleansing balms, this one doesn’t turn milky the moment water touches it. I’d have to massage it around before it emulsifies. Also, small bits of the product seem to solidify as it emulsifies. After I rinse everything off, there’s a small patch of a white, waxy reside left behind. 

    Formula:
    28.90% Cetyl ethylhexanoate
    28.40% caprylic/Capric triglycerides
    10% PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
    10% French green clay
    7% Ceteareth-25 (added in the hopes of giving the balm a more gel-like texture)
    6% ozokerite
    4% microcrystalline wax
    2% PEG-7 Glyceyl Cocoate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
    2% Behenyl olivate
    0.25% Shea butter
    0.25% kokum butter
    0.25% Shorea butter
    0.25% mango butter
    0.20% mixed Tocopherols T-50
    0.5% Germall Plus, liquid

    My supplier is currently closed so I’m trying to conserve my ingredients. So before I do a knockout experiment, I’d like to hear your ideas first. Thank you!

    DeedeeUkulele replied 3 years, 12 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 20, 2020 at 9:01 pm

    That is a LOT of ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, my friend. The two are  chemically brothers, BTW. Ditch the Ceteareth-25 since your hopes appear to be dashed.  You got plenty of nonionic surfactant in there already.

  • DeedeeUkulele

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 4:41 am

    That is a LOT of ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, my friend. The two are  chemically brothers, BTW. Ditch the Ceteareth-25 since your hopes appear to be dashed.  You got plenty of nonionic surfactant in there already.

    Thank you for the feedback. 

    I just estimated the ozokerite and microcrystalline wax based on various LOIs. I understand ozokerite is added for body and microcrystalline wax is to better bind oils?

    At 45°C, this particular balm got glossy and separated a bit. I made another batch using 8% microcrystalline wax, 4% ozokerite, and 4% candelilla wax (horrible idea for this product), and it still melted at 45C.

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