chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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@Juliatrudie The grade of lecithin most commonly used in food and DIY personal care formulation is the 55% “crude” in soybean oil. (Most lecithin derives from soy). The grades with higher phosphatidylcholine (PC) work best in emulsification. I don’t think lecithin is ever a wise choice for emolliency, especially noting the common side effect of “nicotine flush” described by @suswang8 and @DrJekyll. Use it at 1.00% active or less to emulsify high triglyceride oil loads, but remember you MUST employ a co-emulsifier or you’ll not only observe the instability you saw but lecithin-built emulsions will exhibit the “gloop factor” if used alone. Unless “gloop” is what you are shooting for of course, then disregard. Also, remember PC is anionic so do not tempt fate and use a cationic material with it.
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Sepimax ZEN is not that resistant, or you’ll need to use 5% of it solid state to hold up. Not foolproof, folks…then what is? Better idea: have you tried methylcellulose? It will not be 100% transparent but good enough to qualify, and can handle electrolytes all day. Far better rheology than xanthan.
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What @Paprik said…and to answer the original question: no limit to CAPB 30% in rinse-off products, not that you’d need to use more than 20% of it in anything.
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Food lime yellow? That would be Yellow 5?
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Cationics work best with hair conditioning no matter where that hair is found. The combo of behenetrmonium chloride emulsifying dimethicone 350 cst is the workhorse. Add Polyquaternium-10 and lactic acid-neutralized stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and you have a top-shelf product. This is all based on cost considerations. If money is no object then we’d need a lot more space here: like 60 pages more.
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Dow Corning 9040 is the go-to elastomer blend for facial primers and color cosmetics and it conveys that silk sensorial. I would not use it in a night cream though; the crosspolymers work so much better. I’ll recommend a SF1505 or DC1401 clone from A&B Specialty Silicones in Illinois (www.andisil.com). They have the same products at hugely less cost. You’ll never need Dowsil or Momentive again.
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Ca (and Fe, Mg. Al) ion does not really attach to our hair, it just prevents other charged materials from rinsing off the hair or skin keratin. In other words: its the water not the keratin. Why EDTA is essential to so many formulas. Hair conditioners & dyes, that’s another story: you want those to remain deposited so for those, minerals in your water are your friend.
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Any problem using silica or aluminum or magnesium stearate? They thicken lipid systems and appear “elemental” on the label.
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@Silvia Carbomers and multivalent ions DO NOT play well together. You added not only Mg, but also Na (gluconate) and K (sorbate). All those electrolytes will collude to crash the cross-links in carbomer. Also, who uses actual Carbopol 940 anymore? Costs twice the competitive materials’ price.
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@gdabain You have too much unbound water in Formula #2. Lower the water concentration and q.s. with a more PG and some higher homolog such as butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol. Also, I do not think starch is doing much “preventing” since it is not solvated but suspended. It absorbs some water but not that much. Cheers!
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A nefarious portent out of E.U. to be sure. Our 3V Sigma Abiol and Abiol Forte have zero free CH2O, but just heat them a wee bit in solution (e.g. compounder adds above 50C) and there will be way more than 10ppm in the product. How will the regulators measure this is my concern. Meanwhile, trends being what they are, we’ve virtually stopped marketing efforts for Abiol (imidazolidinyl urea), which was once the most widely used preservative in our biz here in the USA.
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This is solved by thickening with acrylates copolymers such as Synthalen W-600 (3V Sigma) or Carbopol Aqua SF-1. A whole lot less expensive and easier to use than Sepimax ZEN also. That material is better used in o/w emulsions.
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Forget the emulsifiers and just make a rheological suspension with Veegum (Mg-Al-silicate) , xanthan, at least one surfactant mid-HLB (8 - 12) and a whole lot of kaolin clay to bulk it up to Play-Dough consistency. Now, how to package this monster mash?
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@UsmanAli First DEL the glycerin, as it is denying you any viscosity that might be obtained with builders. To keep clarity, you need a stronger hydrotrope than coco-betaine, I’ll suggest disodium cocoamphodipropionate 40% (Colonial, Solvay, others) which works very well at pH 9 - 10. As for builders, that is more difficult, though your alkanolamide (CDEA) should do some good here once the glycerin is gone. DO NOT waste time with salt. You can thicken with an acrylate copolymer or a cellulosic gum, methylcellulose being most electrolyte tolerant.
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@dell What you are attempting here is a structured oil content body wash. Yours has some a the elements, but is pretty far off. Read up on that topic: Structured Body Wash surfactant systems. Stepan Chemical has good examples. And, yes, DEL the Polysorbate and the glycerin. Neither one serves any benefit here. Likewise, DEL the chamomile EO: that one may be your problem all along.
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@MurtazaHakim you are correct that this is a recurrent issue. UV stabilization affects many ingredients, CI colorants only the most commonly seen. CBD oil is another one; why most CBD purveyors package in amber PET or PP, double-wall jars, pouches. You’ll want to add a hindered amine light stabilizer (HALS) such as Uvasorb HEB (3V Sigma) or one of the BASF Tinuvins. Just adding 0.05% Benzephenone can help, though it’s extinction coefficient is smaller than the HALS.
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With strong anionic surfactants and cationic polymers such as Guar HPTC, it is always best to add a hydrotrope with it, otherwise the coacervation will be less than good. Common amphoterics such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate do this job cheaply and well.
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I would suggest otherwise: saponify with tromethamine (the best now that TEA is out) to pH 6.2 - 6.8, leaving some free acid, both as builder and to prevent pearlescence on aging.
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Only if you want to maintain the pearlescence while sitting still on a store shelf. Be sure to use enough CAPB too or you’ll drop out either one eventually.
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Polysorbate 80 is the culprit. DEL that and reduce cetyl alcohol & glycerin to 125 gms each and you’ll be fine.
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@cmarie reduce the apple juice LOTS: malic acid in there is reducing your pH, rendering K Cocoate insoluble, thus the separation problem. Reduce glycerin to nearly zero, that will build viscosity. As I’ve so often opined: what is glycerin good for in any body cleansing product? Zilch, that’s what.
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APG will reduce the Zein value most, CAPB second, as will most amphoterics. Reduce 1 part anionic for every part APG increase.
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@Abdullah TiO2 will not contribute any pearlescence, it is mica treated TiO2 that pearls. Good news: you don’t need to use much - 0.20% is plenty. Bad news: you’ll need to have a suspending agent in there to keep it in place. Polyquaternium 10 may be able to contribute just enough yield vale to do the job.
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@Learntounlearn Aristoflex will thicken virtually nil at pH 4.0, so bring the pH up to 5.0 with dilute sodium hydroxide and you’ll see a dramatic difference. Your gel will be fine.
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Salicylic acid would be my guess. Not much there to solubilize it, plus that PQ10 makes salicylic acid that much harder to maintain solution.