It’s been a while since I was experimenting left and right, but I used Emultop Velvet IP a couple times, at something like 2% concentration, plus 10% oils. Emultop is an oiled, enriched soy lecithin. In most cases, the formula would look fine for a couple days, but then fall apart. I was using several other ingredients (powdered extracts, niacinamide, etc.), so I’m not sure of the main driver. I perhaps did not spend long enough blending/homogenizing as this is a very high-maintenance ingredient.
I also experimented with powdered/de-oiled lysolecithin from Cosphatec, which is quite a nice product, but some regard it as a co-emulsifier, not a primary one. (Incidentally, it is still stable as a sole emulsifier at 4% in a simple hand cream two months after formulating.) This product has an excellent, silicone-like skin feel, with a finish that is more matte than the Emultop, but allegedly the skin benefits of lysolecithin are not as great as lecithin, especially when enriched (outside my comprehension, though). I think where I had last left off was trying to create something with a mix of this lyso plus the Emultop, so that the finish was slightly dewy and yet skin feel was silicone-ish.
Today, I started playing around with the Cosphatec oiled lysolecithin, with a first batch using ~1.75% of it, plus 8% almond oil. With only 2% glycerin, it still feels a bit more sticky than ideal, but I’m quite picky. I used a cold-process method
I’ve never had an issue with odor, but that is of course highly dependent on what else you’re using in the product.
I have a strange feeling that lysolecithin is causing my face to flush slightly — not sure yet.
What have your experiences been so far?