Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Why this Shampoo formula doesn’t foam when i replace SLES with AOS?

  • Why this Shampoo formula doesn’t foam when i replace SLES with AOS?

    Posted by Abdullah on June 24, 2021 at 1:33 pm

    I recently made some formulas with Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate powder as primary surfactant in it. It makes opaque Shampoo without adding anything else. It clean the hair well but it doesn’t foam. It’s foam is like if you have only %5 decyl Glucoside as surfactant. No foam at first wash and very little foam in second wash.

    The ingredients are 
    Edta %0.2
    AOS powder %9 active surfactant
    Lauryl Glucoside %1.5 active
    CAPB %1.5 active
    Guar gum %0.1 and %0.5
    Cationic guar gum %0.2
    Piroctone Olamine %0.05
    Glyceryl Caprylate %1
    EO %0.5. also the same without EO 
    Citric acid 
    pH 5.1

    Adding each ingredient in the order i have listed here. Water is hot at first.

    Same formula with SLES instead of AOS has good foam and everything and is clear, not opaque. 

    Am i doing something wrong with AOS or this formula? 

    Why is it not foaming?

    Is it normal for AOS to be opaque and not clear?

    I thought AOS may have more foam than SLES but here it doesn’t foam at all.

    Abdullah replied 2 years, 8 months ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    June 24, 2021 at 6:40 pm

    @Abdullah, this system is under-built. Increase the CAPB by a factor of 3, likewise the glucoside. Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate is a good builder choice there -perhaps increase that too? I’ve never heard of 100% active AOS “powder”, and what is “EO” ? You also want to DEL the guar gum. Why use when you have already cationic guar?

  • Abdullah

    June 25, 2021 at 3:35 am

    @chemicalmatt thanks 
    It is

     %5 CAPB= %1.5 active surfactant
    %3 lauryl Glucoside= %1.5 active surfactant
    %10 AOS= %9 active surfactant.
    Eo= essential oil lavender. 

    Should I increase the amount of surfactants? It would become %18 active surfactant.

    Guar gum was in this formula with SLES to stabilize EGDS. As this one was opaque it self i didn’t use EGDS in it. I made sample without guar gum too. Same problem. 

  • chemicalmatt

    June 25, 2021 at 4:03 pm

    Increase the CAPB, but decrease the AOS at same time. Increasing the GCC by 0.50% should help foam and viscosity. You may increase the glucoside too but not too much.

  • ariepfadli

    October 3, 2021 at 7:24 pm

    Seem you anionic surfactan coagulate you cationic guar gum,try another surfactan

  • ketchito

    October 4, 2021 at 2:02 pm

    @Abdullah Keep in mind that AOS neither foams or synergistically interacts with CAPB as well as SLES does. In my experience, I always had to use a bit more AOS (as active matter) to cope with these diferences. 

  • Abdullah

    October 4, 2021 at 2:14 pm

    @ariepfadli thanks i will make a sample without cationic guar and see what happens.

    @ketchito in some data they show AOS has more foam than any other surfactant. That is why i wanted to use it. But for me it didn’t work at all. 

Log in to reply.