chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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The classic or “traditional” built cleanser system: anionic: amphoteric: builder (usualy alkanolamide) at a ratio of 4:2:1 solid state. E.g. SLES:CAPB:Cocamide MEA at 12:6:3 percent respectively.
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Hi @Graillotion, do you mean self-emulsifying GMS? I’ll assume so. My experience GSC is a superior emulsifier even to sucrose stearate. As dance partners go, it may be surprising to know which one leads.
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Your formula will need Polygel HG from 3V Sigma USA to obtain best clarity, even at pH 5.8, but more of it than 0.80% for all the reasons @EVchem states. Loose the salt preservatives and add nonionic ones, then you may get this closer to pH6.5.
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@attapol if you are a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists you may avail over 50 years of technical papers on this topic through their Resource section. Meanwhile get hold of Vivimed Labs USA (Aako in the EU) and ask for assistance using their Jarocol line. This is much an art as it is a science.
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@Anna_Maria that will not work, the PEG-150DS will crash out. You need to add some of the amphoteric into that hot solution to prevent that. Do you have cocamidopropyl betaine or another in your formula? An alkanolamide can work too. BTW the easiest method of thickening shampoos - especially sulfate free ones - that are not salt-responsive is to use acrylate copolymers. These are 30% solutions you just drop in and adjust pH when you are done adding the other stuff. Synthalen W-600 works like a charm.
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Spun-bound polypropylene is cheapest nonwoven media around and strong enough web strength to get through the filling/packaging process, which can be considerable tensile stress, believe me. You need to invoke formulation chemistry here more than textile knowledge. If cost is no issue, have you looked into cotton? Absorbs easily and has softer haptics too. Cost is 3X more though.
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You need to spell out that acronym @thaibinh19, since not everyone in this Forum is versed in that market. You refer to Sodium Acrylate Polymers that absorb up to 300 times their weight in water, correct? Try Evonik’s, they work best.
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Too many to list here @Cherma. Begin with alkyl quaternary surfactants and polyquaterniums, add silicones, keratin protein….then keep going. Stay away from alkaline relaxers or alkaline anything.
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@tecnico3vinia that snot-like rheology you seek will only occur if you pair PEG-90M with an acrylic polymer such as carbomer or acrylates copolymer. It is a synergistic effect between them. And when you do: look out! Because even 1.0% PEG-90M is far too much! 10% will be unworkable. This means of course you will need to DEL those behenyl quats and start from scratch.
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Aqua SF-1 will not hold up with all the cationics. It will not allow coacervation of the PQ-10, which is the “deposit” you are seeking. I suspect HP guar is interfering there too. The problem using acrylate copolymers in conditioning shampoos is they act as anti-redeposition agents: not a good thing, right? They work great for suspension and viscosity build, but that is about it.
Why not get rid of SF-1 & guar and build viscosity the traditional way? Increase the PQ-10 to >0.50% while you are at it. DEL the amodimethicone & CETAC & Trideceth-12 blend too. That is designed solely for conditioning and styling products, not shampoos. -
@MarkBroussard errrr…that would be me, dude. Now I am outed! I’ll share with y’all my mentor here. I worked with and for Ali for many years. Nobody knows more about the chemistry. Chicago was once the Silicon Valley of African American haircare industry; not so much any more.
The Man of Science Who Revolutionised the Afro Hair Industry (blackbeautyandhair.com)
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You will want to add lactic acid to gain the viscosity and stability build with STPDA, generally 3:1 amine to acid (depending on the acid), and as Perry points out, pH4.0 is best. Different acids have pronounced effects with STPDA, i.e. glutamic acid gives you 4X more viscosity than lactic, but is 4X more expensive. You can have a lot of fun here. Another aspect of your conditioner, a Perry also knows, is if your final batch viscosity is running on the low side, just add a little salt solution and it will thicken up big time. Who needs guar HPTC? Just gets in the way.
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IT will not be a clear gel, only a suspension. Benz peroxide is slightly soluble in water and ethanol. Most trade compositions are 40% suspensions stabilized in situ, so you drop it into your batch. Shipping 100% pure benz COO is a nonstarter - one blip, spark or bump and the truck goes kaplooey!
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Go with the Polypropylene (PP) material for closures. Those are the most common and also chemically resistant. Always check samples with your primary container neck finish too: just because the spec is 24/410 for both doesn’t mean the fitment will be same especially if there is rough flashing on threads or a neck height slightly off. Valve-seal neck finish is best but trickiest to maintain quality assurance unless you get bottle & cap from same molder.
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As a RN you no doubt studied biology, so this should be easy. Get hold of any USP, the method has not changed in decades, and look up USP<51> Antimicrobial Efficacy Testing it will give you stepwise instructions. That’s the easy part. Now you need to get a hood with HEPA filter, autoclave, pourplates, petri dishes, a designated refrigerator and of course the microbes themselves, which you order right out of the catalog. VWR Scientific has all of this stuff if your are in the USA.
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Used both, but those are builders, not primary surfactants. Do not replace your APG with them, but add with to build viscosity and foam like any other alkanolamide.
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Sodium benzoate will only preserve that surfactant blend if you adjust the pH to 5.0, whereby the solubility of sarcosinate begins to lessen. I would add an amphoteric hydrotrope to make this a better mousetrap and make darn sure about that pH staying in the acid range. Might want to add tetrasodium EDTA as a chelant also unless you always wash yourself in deionized water.
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Sodium hydroxide (solution) is not a buffer, it is a strong alkali. You may adjust the product pH upwards with it, but it will not be buffered.
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Nope! That’s only one-half the USP monograph NClO activity for a wound care wash. It may dry your skin a lot, but at least it’ll be sterilized.
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Depends on the agreement, your contract manufacturer’s integrity, their skill-set and how proprietary the formula. I know this doesn’t answer your question, but in 35 years working contract manufacturing, I’ve never seen a formula provided me under a CNDA that impressed me so much I felt the need to inform our management team: “Wow, this is so novel and unique, we’d better keep this one strictly under wraps or we’ll get sued by these people!” Usually it was “..yeesh, we could have provided this brand a MUCH better formula than this mediocre thing. We’ll keep that thought and their formula confidential all the same”
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INCREASE the chelating agent as you already surmised. Tetrasodium EDTA? Double or triple it. Easiest solution is often the obvious one.
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@tecnico3vinia Your’s is a good question and worthy of an answer. In the past I’ve heated the product to 10C above its solidification point and measured using a heated pycnometer, posting the specification as 0.### @ 60C. The other means is to tare a graduate cylinder, melt the product, fill to over the 100ml mark, let cool to RT then carefully shave off excess until level at the mark. Weigh, then clean out and weigh water at the mark at RT, calculate SpG. Any discrete container can be used for this too, (i.e. a Mason jar) just be sure you mark the same volume level for water and product.
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Triethyl citrate…all day long.
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Thanks to @Pharma, @MarkBroussard and @PhilGeis for this. I have been reading about “magnesium oil” in the trade press and blogosphere for a long while and have been scratching my brain trying to figure WTF these people are talking about. Now I know! Brain freeze abated.
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@Macink You got a little redundancy there: calamine is nearly all zinc oxide, so why add more zinc oxide? To answer the question though: lots of preservatives will do this. If you have no misgivings, add diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, methylparaben, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate…the world is your oyster depending on your location. No need to sterilize, just heat mixture above 55C and keep it there for 60 minutes, then cool and add your preservative. Dr. Phil Geis can weigh in here too.