[Camel]

I think the wording of the second option could be adjusted while still being factual and avoiding fluff. For example, I think “due to space constraints” is not relevant to the consumer. It is enough to say “made in small batches” which is a fact, without having to explain why. The “it actually does something” could also be worded more professionally.

Consider:

Made in small batches using ingredients with minimal environmental impact and proven efficacy.

I would prefer this option more than the fluffy one.

[Camel]

Hi Samirah,

I think BTMS and Cationic Guar should be enough to provide the conditioning effects you are looking for without adding silicones. You could try increasing the BTMS to 5%, but I don’t think you will need more than that.

I’m not sure which oils you are currently using at 2%, but you could try replacing them with a light emollient that claims to mimic the sensory profile of silicones. They likely won’t match the performance of a true silicone, but they may give you better results than a plant oil would.

A personal favorite is Plantasens® Olive LD (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) which you can find sold by repackers under various names (Olive SIL, Eco Sil, NatraSil, Sil-Olea). The manufacturer claims it can add shine to hair and impart a conditioning effect that makes hair easier to comb without weighing it down. I’ve had good results using it in my lotions and conditioners, but I’m not a professional and I use it alongside silicones, so you’ll have to try it for yourself and see.

It’s also important to make sure you are checking the pH. Cationic surfactants are much more effective at a slightly more acidic pH, which helps them adhere to our negatively charged hair. Use lactic acid to reduce the pH of your conditioner to around 4-4.5.

[Camel]

I don’t have experience making hair sprays and I’m not a professional, but I can offer you my thoughts.

The amount of glycerin and propylene glycol seems rather high at 36% combined. You might only need 1-5% or it could leave your hair feeling sticky. If you don’t want to use propylene glycol, you can try replacing it with propanediol, or just use glycerin alone.

As for the cocamidopropyl dimethylamine propionate, I wasn’t able to find much information about this ingredient, but it seems to be an amphoteric or cationic surfactant. You could just use cetrimonium or behentrimonium chloride instead, which are the surfactants I commonly see used in such leave-in hair sprays, and they are likely more effective at conditioning. Another option might be to replace it with some polyquaternium-7.

[Camel]

Yes, you can use Sodium C14-16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate instead of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. Both are anionic surfactants, but you might find they perform differently, so you’ll have to test it and see for yourself.

You can completely remove glycerin and polyquaternium-11 to save on cost. Assuming you are using a 9% solution of polyquaternium-7, you can probably reduce it to 3%. I don’t know what grade of natrosol you are using, but 3% does seem rather high, and I think <=1% should be enough for a shampoo. Decyl glucoside can have a thinning effect and make it harder to thicken formulas, it also doesn’t feel that good on hair, so you might consider removing it and reducing natrosol. I also don’t see how you’re adding dimethicone to this without separation, unless the natrosol is keeping it held. Lastly, I would recommend adding a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA to boost preservative efficacy.

Consider this as a starting point for testing:

• Water: q.s.
• Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate: 7.5% active matter
• Coco Betaine: 2.5% active matter
• Polyquaternium-7: 2-3%
• Natrosol: 0.5-1%
• Euxyl 9010: 0.5-1%
• Hydrolyzed Protein: 0.5%
• Fragrance: 0.5%
• Disodium EDTA: 0.1%

[Camel]

From the European Chemicals Agency:

2-Phenoxyethanol is not mutagenic, carcinogenic or a reproductive toxicant. There is no evidence that it is neurotoxic or immunotoxic. An assessment of endocrine disruptor activity as defined in Regulation (EU) No 2017/2100 has not been conducted… However, there was no evidence of specific effects on endocrine tissues and organs. (ECHA, 2018)

From a study titled “Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenoxyethanol”:

In dermal treatment studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither teratogenic, embryotoxic, or fetotoxic at doses which were maternally toxic. Phenoxyethanol was nonmutagenic in the Ames test, with and without metabolic activition, and in the mouse micronucleus test. In clinical studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither a primary irritant nor sensitizer. Phenoxyethanol was not phototoxic in clinical studies. It is concluded that Phenoxyethanol is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration. (Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1990)

Unfortunately, unless the INCI of a preservative is something along the lines of “grapefruit seed extract”, it is not going to be well-received by a certain group of consumers. The reality is the average consumer does not care what preservative is used in their cosmetics and personal care products, otherwise the big companies like Procter & Gamble and Unilever wouldn’t still be at the top of sales. Pantene is still using Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT) in their shampoos and conditioners, and they are one of the best selling brands globally. Vaseline is still using parabens in their body lotions.

Fearmongering is just a ploy used to drive sales of (primarily) smaller brands. They differentiated their products by being “paraben-free”, and now that many of the big companies are using phenoxyethanol instead, I’m starting to see “phenoxyethanol-free” on a lot of labels.

[Camel]

Despite the naturally occurring vitamin e content in oils, they are still prone to oxidation and adding an additional antioxidant like tocopherol will help to slow down the rate at which they become rancid. Unfortunately, the oil will do nothing to protect the product from the risk of microbial contamination that the aloe vera introduces, even if you heat it. You would need to add an oil-soluble preservative to mitigate this risk, but even then, glycerin and aloe vera are simply not soluble in oil. They cannot be mixed together, and doing so without a proper emulsification system will lead to stability issues and ultimately separation.

If you have financial constraints, then you should definitely consider my previous recommendation of testing with a simplified version of your formula, using just one liquid oil and then your butters. I think grapeseed oil might be the least expensive in your formula, but you could even substitute it for vegetable (soybean) oil from the grocery store for testing purposes. Combine different amounts of shea butter, cocoa butter, and vegetable oil until you get the desired outcome. Then, you can replace the vegetable oil with whatever combination of liquid oil you prefer. Start with smaller batch sizes so that you don’t have to waste as much of your ingredients. Note that heating and cooling can affect the final texture as rapid temperature changes can make your butters crystalize, making the product grainy.

We can get a relative idea of the percentages of each ingredient based on the recipe you shared.

For the oil base:

• Coconut Oil: 43.96%
• Grapeseed Oil: 21.98%
• Aloe Vera: 10.99%
• Tea Tree: 10.99%
• Avocado Oil: 5.49%
• Sweet Almond Oil: 2.75%
• Glycerin: 2.75%
• Olive Oil: 1.1%

For the beard butter:

• Oil Base: 41.67%
• Shea Butter: 29.17%
• Cocoa Butter: 29.17%

To convert the percentages to grams, first decide on the total batch size. For testing, you might try a small batch size of 100 grams. In that case, the percentage is the same value as the grams. So, 43.96% of coconut oil in a 100 gram batch would be equal to 43.96 grams. If you wanted to make a 250 gram batch, you would multiply the percentage of each ingredient by the batch size. For coconut oil, that would be 43.96% * 250 grams = 109.9 grams of coconut oil needed.

You could try a simple test of 50% vegetable oil, 25% shea butter, and 25% cocoa butter. For a 100 gram batch, this would be 50 grams of vegetable oil, 25 grams of shea butter, and 25 grams of cocoa butter. If you want a harder product, increase the butters and reduce the oil. If you want a softer product, increase the oil and reduce the butters.

I will say that the tea tree oil is being used at a concerningly high concentration and could very likely cause irritation to the skin, like burning and itching.

[Camel]

Percentages are a more precise way to formulate because they can be scaled up or down easily and they also make your formula more easily understood by other formulators when seeking advice. When you weigh your ingredients in grams, you will end up with much greater consistency from batch to batch.

As @Graillotion mentioned, you will want to consider your solubility issues first. Glycerin and aloe vera are not soluble in oil and will cause stability issues in your product and probably separation. The aloe vera is essentially introducing water into your formula which can lead to microbial growth and will require a preservative. I would just remove both (the glycerin and the aloe vera) completely.

You may also want to consider adding an antioxidant like tocopherol (vitamin e) at 0.1%. This can help extend the shelf life of your oils by preventing them from becoming rancid as quickly due to oxidation.

Keep in mind that essential oils are potent and can be very sensitizing to the skin. I would recommend using no more than 0.5% of the tea tree, patchouli, and sandalwood oils combined. Try starting with 0.1% of each (for a total of 0.3%) and adjusting from there based on your desired scent. A skin-safe fragrance oil blend may be a safer and easier option to consider instead.

[Camel]

I am somewhat skeptical that the ratios of your liquid oils will have a significant impact on the performance of the balm. More importantly, I think you need to figure out the ratio between your solids (butters) and liquids (oils) to get the desired consistency. Since the only butter you are using is shea butter, a more cost effective approach is to start by creating a test batch using just shea butter and a single oil, like grapeseed oil. If you’re aiming for a harder balm, increase the amount of shea butter and decrease the grapeseed oil. For a softer balm, add more grapeseed oil and reduce the shea butter. You may try starting with 50% of each and going from there. Once you’ve achieved the desired consistency using this method, you can then begin introducing your other chosen oils to the mix, while maintaining the same quantity of shea butter, but reducing the grapeseed oil to accommodate the others. This way you might not have to waste all of your ingredients.

[Camel]

I would second the recommendation by @Graillotion of using Butter Pearls (C10-18 Triglycerides). It is an ingredient I use quite often. If you are interested, there is a video where Butter Pearls are compared at 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, and 40% concentrations with safflower oil. You may find it useful.

[Camel]

Soap is traditionally made through a process known as «saponification» where a strong alkali, like sodium hydroxide (solid soap) or potassium hydroxide (liquid soap), is added to fat/oil. The result is glycerin and the salts of the fatty acids (soap).

The pH of soap is inherently alkaline because of the saponification process. Synthetic surfactants can also have a high pH. For example, my sodium coco sulfate has a pH of 9.5-12 in a 1% aqueous solution. However, the pH of soap cannot be adjusted in the same way that the pH of a synthetic surfactant can be. Lowering the pH of soap can cause re-acidification of the fatty acid salts and potentially cause the soap to separate or lose its effectiveness. It would also require a much higher addition of acid to significantly lower the pH which would likely increase the potential for irritation even if it didn’t compromise the structure of the soap.

Both soap and synthetic surfactants can be effective cleansers (some more than others), but traditional soap has a higher potential to leave a residue (soap scum) in hard water conditions than synthetic surfactants do.

I think at the end of the day it is largely a personal preference. If your skin is not irritated by traditional soap, then it should be completely fine to use. Traditional soap is still popular in many cultures. In Palestine, we have Nabulsi Soap, which is a 100% olive oil soap with both solid and liquid varieties that has been made since the 10th century and is still very popular and common in our country to this day.

I think it also depends on the usage. For example, using traditional soap as shampoo for your hair will probably never get you the same performance and results as a quality shampoo made with synthetic surfactants and other ingredients. But, for washing the hands, I have no problem using traditional soap.

[Camel]

Forgot to mention: traditional soap made through the saponification of fat/oil is anionic in nature.

[Camel]

I’m not a professional, but like @Perry44 said, you will need to provide the full formula and percentages to receive the best assistance.

From the current list of ingredients, there doesn’t appear to be an oil phase, which means the cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside may not be necessary. Essential oils are used at such a small amount that they don’t usually require a robust emulsification system on their own. A solubilizer like Polysorbate-20/Polysorbate-80 or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil may be more appropriate here, coupled with Perry’s suggestion of a stabilizer like Xanthan Gum.

Are you using a homemade flax seed gel or is it a cosmetic grade raw material from a supplier? What form of aloe vera are you using? Is it a store-bought juice? Those often have stabilizers and preservatives in them that could cause interference.

It’s also worth noting that homemade flax seed gel and aloe vera will likely be difficult to preserve, especially without a more robust preservative system.

[Camel]

@chemicalmatt

Would you be able to recommend a range for including ethylhexylglycerin as a fixative? Thank you!

[Camel]

Is it a micropipette?

[Camel]

Hello,

You’re going to need to list all of your ingredients and their percentages of the formula to get the best advice.

[Camel]

@ketchito @Perry44

I revised the formula by slightly reducing SCS and PQ-10, increasing hydroxysultaine and DEA, and removing the olive oil esters:

• Water: 79.4%
• Sodium Coco Sulfate: 9.6%
• Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: 6%
• Cocamide DEA: 1.5%
• Sodium Lactate: 1%
• Lactic Acid: 1%
• Fragrance: 0.5%
• Liquid Germall Plus: 0.5%
• Polyquaternium-10: 0.2%
• Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: 0.2%
• Disodium EDTA: 0.1%

These photos were taken after 24 hours. Do you think the fragrance isn’t completely solubilized? I’m not familiar with Kraft points if that is the issue. I’m still waiting on some SLES to arrive and hoping that will provide better results than SCS.

Thanks again!

[Camel]

That’s a very good point! The truth is their products are made in small batches because their business is not at the scale of a large batch.

I think the phrase “due to space constraints” carries a negative connotation (a constraint is not a benefit) and it could make the consumer question the production quality or potential limitations the brand may have in delivering a quality product.

I think the best approach is to find a balance between honesty and marketing. Delivering a factual statement that focuses on the positive aspects and benefits rather than the negative aspects or constraints.

[Camel]

Just to clarify again, I’m not a professional, but this is my understanding:

• Tocopherol (Vitamin E T-50) is effective at reducing the rate at which the oils in your product will oxidize.
• Tocopheryl Acetate will not help with preventing oil oxidation (or maybe it will, but to a much less extent), but is rather used for its benefits to the skin.
• Neither one has significantly pronounced skin benefits and likely wouldn’t be noticed by consumers.
• You only need a small amount of Tocopherol to be effective at reducing the rate of oil oxidation (0.1% may be enough)
• Too much Tocopherol can actually cause your oils to oxidize at an even faster rate.

[Camel]

Hi Margaret,

I get my glycerin from Valerie at Simply Ingredients. You might be interested in checking if it is available to you as I believe it meets your criteria.

Our glycerin is palm-free and derived from a non-food source, the Karanja tree, which is native to semi-arid regions of India. The fruit of the Karanja tree is collected and crushed to obtain Karanja oil. The oil is reacted with water under heat and pressure to produce water that is enriched with glycerin.

simply-ingredients.com

Organic Glycerin

Glycerin is clinically proven to increase the amount of moisture in the skin, as well as help improve the stability of formulations when exposed to cold temperatures. It is the best hydrator and humectant for skin. Our glycerin is organic, … Continue reading

[Camel]

@Perry44

You could consider making a couple of the more active, trustable users forum moderators to remove spam posts faster, at least until you are able to implement a more effective solution! I think @ketchito , @Graillotion , and @PhilGeis would all make great choices if they are interested.

[Camel]

@PhilGeis

To add to that, what about PEG-50 Shea Butter or Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters? Can those be referred to simply as shea butter and olive oil in a product’s marketing? Thank you.

[Camel]

Thanks, Perry! I have both of those ingredients, so I’ll definitely give it a try.

[Camel]

Thank you for your response, ketchito!

Actually, I was thinking about increasing cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and cocamide dea, because the shampoo is not making as much foam as I would like.

I found an old post from you where you said the best ratio of sles:capb:dea for foam is 3:1:0.5. Is this based on active matter? Do you think the same ratio would apply with SCS and hydroxysultaine?

I could try this, which would slightly reduce scs while increasing hydroxysultaine and dea:

• Sodium Coco Sulfate (94%): 9.6%
• Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (50%): 6%
• Cocamide DEA: 1.5%

I’m also going to purchase some sles and see how differently that performs.

Thanks again!

[Camel]

It’s always great to receive an answer from you, Perry!

Olivem 300 (Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters) is marketed as a water-soluble lipid that can be used as a fragrance solubilizer and refatting agent in toiletries.

I do agree with you that it is likely unnecessary in my shampoo, but because it is water-soluble, I am thinking it may actually be a microbial issue like you mentioned.

I am going to test this by making two more batches: one without any modifications, and one with the esters removed. I will see if there are any noticeable differences between them after 2-4 weeks.

Thank you!

[Camel]

Hello,

I was thinking that may be the case, but many commercial shampoos use polyquaternium-10 and cationic guar with sulfates and other anionic surfactants.

Maybe the concentration of cationic ingredients in my formula is too high?

Thank you for the response!