Home Cosmetic Science Talk General Requests / Opportunities Beard balm and oil

  • Beard balm and oil

    Posted by Mythos-Forge on October 21, 2023 at 12:06 pm

    Im hand crafting my own line of beard care products and im just in the development stage, working in my home on this. But I’m using all organic ingredients, on my 4th recipe and not quite happy with it, I’m working in ounces for my fomula and honestly need advice on the proper ratios for my ingredients, Im using,Shea butter, Grapeseed oil, Argan oil, Tea Tea oil, Sweet Almond oil, Avocado oil, Extra Virgin Olive oil, and raw Aloe Vera, and Patchouli and Sandalwood oil as a scent. Would anyone please help me out with the proper ratios in ounces ?

    Mythos-Forge replied 2 months, 1 week ago 4 Members · 28 Replies
  • 28 Replies
  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 21, 2023 at 12:25 pm

    Oh and i forgot im also using Vegitable Glycerin

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 21, 2023 at 3:13 pm

    You might take a look at your formula….and check for solubility issues.

    The folks you’ll meet here barely know what an ounce is. They work in percentages and grams. 😉

    There is a group on FB….that speaks that language and will certainly have some comments. You have to join….but check them out.:

    Skincare Natural Ingredient Formulation.

    Good luck.

  • Vladimir

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 8:41 am

    write me an email and I ‘ll tell you . wkrupenko@gmail.com

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 10:40 am

    Email sent

  • camel

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 9:04 pm

    Percentages are a more precise way to formulate because they can be scaled up or down easily and they also make your formula more easily understood by other formulators when seeking advice. When you weigh your ingredients in grams, you will end up with much greater consistency from batch to batch.

    As @Graillotion mentioned, you will want to consider your solubility issues first. Glycerin and aloe vera are not soluble in oil and will cause stability issues in your product and probably separation. The aloe vera is essentially introducing water into your formula which can lead to microbial growth and will require a preservative. I would just remove both (the glycerin and the aloe vera) completely.

    You may also want to consider adding an antioxidant like tocopherol (vitamin e) at 0.1%. This can help extend the shelf life of your oils by preventing them from becoming rancid as quickly due to oxidation.

    Keep in mind that essential oils are potent and can be very sensitizing to the skin. I would recommend using no more than 0.5% of the tea tree, patchouli, and sandalwood oils combined. Try starting with 0.1% of each (for a total of 0.3%) and adjusting from there based on your desired scent. A skin-safe fragrance oil blend may be a safer and easier option to consider instead.

    • camel

      Member
      October 22, 2023 at 9:24 pm

      I am somewhat skeptical that the ratios of your liquid oils will have a significant impact on the performance of the balm. More importantly, I think you need to figure out the ratio between your solids (butters) and liquids (oils) to get the desired consistency. Since the only butter you are using is shea butter, a more cost effective approach is to start by creating a test batch using just shea butter and a single oil, like grapeseed oil. If you’re aiming for a harder balm, increase the amount of shea butter and decrease the grapeseed oil. For a softer balm, add more grapeseed oil and reduce the shea butter. You may try starting with 50% of each and going from there. Once you’ve achieved the desired consistency using this method, you can then begin introducing your other chosen oils to the mix, while maintaining the same quantity of shea butter, but reducing the grapeseed oil to accommodate the others. This way you might not have to waste all of your ingredients.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 10:15 pm
  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 10:24 pm

    Here are my ingredients, the scales im using for my measurements have multiple weight settings i can uses, just not good at figuring percentages, lol, but here are my ingredients and measurements for now.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 10:48 pm

    8 oz. Coconut oil

    4 oz Grapeseed oil

    2 oz Aloe Vera juice

    2 oz Tea trea oil

    1 oz Avocado oil

    .5 oz Sweet Almond oil

    .5 oz Vegitable Glycerin

    .2 oz Olive oil

    Poured off to 10 oz. Of base oil and set aside the rest for just for bear oil.

    Beard butter

    10 oz. Base oil

    7 oz Shea Butter

    7 oz Coco butter

    It’s just not quite right, i know the formula needs adjustments, but one reason i chose Grapeseed oil other than its skin absorption rate and benifits is that its extremely high in vitamin E and Iloronic acid and it very antibacterial and antifungal wich I’m hoping should solve the issue with the Aloe Vera juice, i also used a double boiler and brought the base oil up to 200° in hopes of killing any bacteria present in the Aloe Vera juice, then quickly into the freezer for a fast cool down, not enough to solidify or even thicken it in any way but just to drop the to 40° , then blended it.

    After a suggestion i researched carrot seed oil and planning on adding it to the mix.

    The essential oil advice will be used so thank you for that, and they wont be added until i have my formula down, and then only added according to the scent they few testers i have are interested in and for my personal batch. I’m only in my trial phase i guess you could say and am on my 4th formula. I’m on disability and it’s far from enough, Im doing this also in the hope of an extra income so this is kicking me in the pocket book at the moment, Im mainly doing this to make the best and healthiest 100% organic beard products and the testers i have are interested in buying my product as soon as its ready for that main reason.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 11:14 pm

    Well you were correct, i took a look at my 1st 3 batches of oil wich thankfully were only small batches and i do see the separation, so Aloe Vera juice and Vegitable Glycerin are out of the oil, but with my other ingredients would it be safe in the butter and future balm ?

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 11:29 pm

    Maybe i should just trash what i got, refomulate and start again with next months check. Ugh ! Live and learn, the hard way sometimes, lol

  • camel

    Member
    October 22, 2023 at 11:45 pm

    Despite the naturally occurring vitamin e content in oils, they are still prone to oxidation and adding an additional antioxidant like tocopherol will help to slow down the rate at which they become rancid. Unfortunately, the oil will do nothing to protect the product from the risk of microbial contamination that the aloe vera introduces, even if you heat it. You would need to add an oil-soluble preservative to mitigate this risk, but even then, glycerin and aloe vera are simply not soluble in oil. They cannot be mixed together, and doing so without a proper emulsification system will lead to stability issues and ultimately separation.

    If you have financial constraints, then you should definitely consider my previous recommendation of testing with a simplified version of your formula, using just one liquid oil and then your butters. I think grapeseed oil might be the least expensive in your formula, but you could even substitute it for vegetable (soybean) oil from the grocery store for testing purposes. Combine different amounts of shea butter, cocoa butter, and vegetable oil until you get the desired outcome. Then, you can replace the vegetable oil with whatever combination of liquid oil you prefer. Start with smaller batch sizes so that you don’t have to waste as much of your ingredients. Note that heating and cooling can affect the final texture as rapid temperature changes can make your butters crystalize, making the product grainy.

    We can get a relative idea of the percentages of each ingredient based on the recipe you shared.

    For the oil base:

    • Coconut Oil: 43.96%
    • Grapeseed Oil: 21.98%
    • Aloe Vera: 10.99%
    • Tea Tree: 10.99%
    • Avocado Oil: 5.49%
    • Sweet Almond Oil: 2.75%
    • Glycerin: 2.75%
    • Olive Oil: 1.1%

    For the beard butter:

    • Oil Base: 41.67%
    • Shea Butter: 29.17%
    • Cocoa Butter: 29.17%

    To convert the percentages to grams, first decide on the total batch size. For testing, you might try a small batch size of 100 grams. In that case, the percentage is the same value as the grams. So, 43.96% of coconut oil in a 100 gram batch would be equal to 43.96 grams. If you wanted to make a 250 gram batch, you would multiply the percentage of each ingredient by the batch size. For coconut oil, that would be 43.96% * 250 grams = 109.9 grams of coconut oil needed.

    You could try a simple test of 50% vegetable oil, 25% shea butter, and 25% cocoa butter. For a 100 gram batch, this would be 50 grams of vegetable oil, 25 grams of shea butter, and 25 grams of cocoa butter. If you want a harder product, increase the butters and reduce the oil. If you want a softer product, increase the oil and reduce the butters.

    I will say that the tea tree oil is being used at a concerningly high concentration and could very likely cause irritation to the skin, like burning and itching.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 12:54 am

    Scrapping that last formula for oil, containing all the original ingredients i initially wanted to use and i think at a better absorption rate than my previous formula and without solubility issues hopefully. Tea Tree oil, Patchouli oil and Sandalwood oil will be used at .5% total.

    Grapeseed oil 2 oz. 56.699 grams

    Rosehip oil 1 oz. 28.349 grams

    Carrot seed oil .5 oz. 14.174 grams

    Argan oil .25 oz. 7.087 grams

    Jojoba oil .25 oz. 7.087 grams

    Avocado oil .10 oz. 2.835 grams

    Almond oil .10 oz. 2.835 grams

    Aloe Vera oil .10 oz. 2.835 grams

    Olive oil .05 oz. 1.417 grams

    Coconut oil .05 oz. 1.417 grams

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 3:43 am

    Aloe vera oil…. that is a new one to me.

    If you are interested….watch this video from a PhD chemist….and it might help you simplify your formula.

    Aloha

    Skincare Oils and Free Fatty Acids: The Science | Lab Muffin Beauty Science - YouTube

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 8:48 am

    Aloe Vera seed oil

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 9:24 am

    Thanks for the video link, i will definitely watch it once I’ve had enough coffee to adsorb the info, lol

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 9:29 am

    Definitely wish i had found this site before i started this project, instead i trusted info on all the DIY sites i researched, they suggested the use of the Aloe Vera juice and the Vegitable Glycerin to make the oil feel lighter on the beard. Smh. Thank you all for all your input so far and will definitely appreciate all future help with my new formula any and all advice is welcome, especially on ingredients amounts

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 3:02 pm

    If anyone can help me out with better ratios of my ingredients, better ingredients, or the removal of an ingredient if its redundant, the help would be greatly appreciated, will be doing what research i can over the next week before making a 4.4 oz. Batch.

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 3:24 pm

    Oh no! I don’t even know where to start. 😂

    First….. the carrier oil market is almost as saturated with fake oils…as the essential oil market. The company you presented…is the best of the best…at selling fake oils. (You realize this once you start buying the real version.) The basic first rule of cosmetics is….we buy from reputable sellers….not Amazon, ebay (all though there are a handful of reputable ones sprinkled in there), and ETSY.

    As there is not an aloe oil….they have just taken a uber cheap oil….and infused some part/type of aloe. Earlier….when I said….I had never heard of Aloe oil….that was said totally tongue in cheek.

    I don’t have time to ‘fix’ this….but start with some reputable oil sellers….so you at least are not selling fake products. Here is a brief list of people that will not intentionally sell you fake oils:

    Simply Ingredients

    Jedwards

    New Directions Aromatics

    Making Cosmetics

    Lotioncrafters

    Formulators Sample shop.

    There are more….but this should get you headed in the right direction. Of course as you start buying the real oils….the price will be higher than the fakes! I did create the list in order of respect (maybe 2 and 3 can flip flop). Valerie at Simply Ingredients is the best of the best….just has limited variety.

    Good Luck.

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by  Graillotion.
    • Mythos-Forge

      Member
      October 23, 2023 at 3:35 pm

      I had that feeling after your reaction, at least i haven’t ordered it yet, all the new ingredients in my formula are only in my shopping cart, what i have on hand i bought from my local organic oil, beauty and health suppy store, only got on Amazon yesterday looking for a better value than that of my local markets markup.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 3:42 pm

    I will definitely make sure the ingredients I’ve added to my formula are from a reputable seller before they go in my product

    • graillotion

      Member
      October 23, 2023 at 4:36 pm

      May I make a suggestion….just that….nothing more.

      Looks like this is your first foray into a segment that has many pitfalls and traps.

      Consider hiring a qualified cosmetic chemist to walk you through this process. (Note….there are just as many fake formulators….as essential oils and carrier oils!!!!!!) Not only will they have likely made many similar formulas…hence the effort (cost) to make yours will be minimal. But they will generally also direct you in areas of suppliers, packaging, marketing etc.

      In the future, you can take what you learned from the professional…and apply it to your own additional ventures…but at least you’ll be pointed in the right direction.

      There is a tab on this site….that will put you into contact with these vetted pro’s. (I am not one of them….so I am not looking for a job. 😉 )

      I think the best investment you can make.

      Good luck.

    • Mythos-Forge

      Member
      October 23, 2023 at 4:59 pm

      You are correct and the advice is well taken, and i actually beat you to the punch on the Chemists, I have a phone appointment with one tomorrow afternoon.

  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    December 16, 2023 at 5:14 am

    Ok, I’ve done tons more research, changed my carrier and essential oils I’m using all up and getting them from trusted suppliers, My formula is in grams now, and contains only Oils, no water. Now my question is referring to the use of Vitamin E, for it’s Antioxidant properties as well as for skin benifits, there is alot of arguments out there on wich type and how much to use, I do need the antioxidant benefits to prevent the rancidity of my oils but also want the skin benifits of it as well, I have 2 types of Vitamin E, Tocopherol (Vitamin E T-50) and Tocopheryl Acetate, right now I’m leaning towards only using Tocopherol at 2%, is that to much ? Or should I use both, Tocopherol at .5% and Tocopheryl Acetate at 1.5%. What is everyones input and suggestions on this.

    • camel

      Member
      December 16, 2023 at 1:22 pm

      Just to clarify again, I’m not a professional, but this is my understanding:

      • Tocopherol (Vitamin E T-50) is effective at reducing the rate at which the oils in your product will oxidize.
      • Tocopheryl Acetate will not help with preventing oil oxidation (or maybe it will, but to a much less extent), but is rather used for its benefits to the skin.
      • Neither one has significantly pronounced skin benefits and likely wouldn’t be noticed by consumers.
      • You only need a small amount of Tocopherol to be effective at reducing the rate of oil oxidation (0.1% may be enough)
      • Too much Tocopherol can actually cause your oils to oxidize at an even faster rate.
  • Mythos-Forge

    Member
    December 16, 2023 at 4:42 pm

    Thanks for that info, so much misleading information out there, even from a the Skincare Natural Ingredients Formulation group i belong to, lol. I’ve heard .3%-.5% for antioxidant purposes, and 2%-30% for skin benifits or there are no skin benifits.

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